Tekno ET48 Thread
#3166
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 101
From: Lafayette, LA
Do you guys think there's any difference between steel pinions made by different companies? Are any brands more precisely machined than others or are any made out of higher quality steel?
I know mod 1 should be mod 1 but I'm just curious. I don't even know what brand I'm running since I bought a 3 pack from the LHS when I bought my RC8.2e. I just know I'm running 16t on my ET48 and 17 on my EB48.2.
Any that seem to run quieter than others? My truggy seems to have more gear noise than some others out there. It's not loud like the RTR cars seem to be but it makes me think a higher quality pinion might be a good thing.
I'm running the stock plastic spur.
I know mod 1 should be mod 1 but I'm just curious. I don't even know what brand I'm running since I bought a 3 pack from the LHS when I bought my RC8.2e. I just know I'm running 16t on my ET48 and 17 on my EB48.2.
Any that seem to run quieter than others? My truggy seems to have more gear noise than some others out there. It's not loud like the RTR cars seem to be but it makes me think a higher quality pinion might be a good thing.
I'm running the stock plastic spur.
#3167
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,017
for the servo, I got one of the Protek 170S servos as well. Works very well.
for the pinions, I have been using Novak pinions in my SCT410 and EB48 and have been working well and are very quiet. Started with a Tekno pinion in my ET48 but have a Novak pinion installed now. It is slightly noisier than the other two cars, but I think that is because the spur is rubbing on the center diff top plate. Nothing too serious though.
for the pinions, I have been using Novak pinions in my SCT410 and EB48 and have been working well and are very quiet. Started with a Tekno pinion in my ET48 but have a Novak pinion installed now. It is slightly noisier than the other two cars, but I think that is because the spur is rubbing on the center diff top plate. Nothing too serious though.
#3169
#3170
I've heard several people say that the Novak pinioned are the quietest.
That said, I've also made my Teknos quieter than most with the Tekno pinions simply by running the gear mesh mo tight. Due to the great tolerances and balance, I've been able to go tighter mesh (less chatter) with no binding than I can on several of my 2wd 10th scale vehicles. That in both an eb48 be sct410, though the same should apply here.
Give it a shot, make it as tight as you can without having a spot in the rotation with no play/chatter at all.
That said, I've also made my Teknos quieter than most with the Tekno pinions simply by running the gear mesh mo tight. Due to the great tolerances and balance, I've been able to go tighter mesh (less chatter) with no binding than I can on several of my 2wd 10th scale vehicles. That in both an eb48 be sct410, though the same should apply here.
Give it a shot, make it as tight as you can without having a spot in the rotation with no play/chatter at all.
#3171
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 625
From: Atlanta, Ga
Thanks to all for the pinion advice. I have played around with the play between my pinion and spur and I did notice it was a little quieter with a closer fit.
I actually forgot about the spur being right up against the plastic plate over the center diff. I bet that's part of what I hear sometimes when hitting the throttle up the face of a jump or other situations where I'm probably getting some chassis flex.
I actually forgot about the spur being right up against the plastic plate over the center diff. I bet that's part of what I hear sometimes when hitting the throttle up the face of a jump or other situations where I'm probably getting some chassis flex.
#3174
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 473
From: Morrisville, NC
Edit: Possibly an RX8 could fit with the 1717 motor depending on exact measurements
Last edited by kawi650; 07-22-2014 at 12:47 PM.
#3175
I've heard several people say that the Novak pinioned are the quietest.
That said, I've also made my Teknos quieter than most with the Tekno pinions simply by running the gear mesh mo tight. Due to the great tolerances and balance, I've been able to go tighter mesh (less chatter) with no binding than I can on several of my 2wd 10th scale vehicles. That in both an eb48 be sct410, though the same should apply here.
Give it a shot, make it as tight as you can without having a spot in the rotation with no play/chatter at all.
That said, I've also made my Teknos quieter than most with the Tekno pinions simply by running the gear mesh mo tight. Due to the great tolerances and balance, I've been able to go tighter mesh (less chatter) with no binding than I can on several of my 2wd 10th scale vehicles. That in both an eb48 be sct410, though the same should apply here.
Give it a shot, make it as tight as you can without having a spot in the rotation with no play/chatter at all.
#3176
I got a issue, maybe ya'll can help. I have the traction drive installed. It works amazingly. Just that it get hot, and It should as it allow the clutch to slip. My issue is the set screw keeps coming lose. I've tried several different spring tensions and that doesn't effect it any. I've also tried different lock-tight. I understand that heating up lock-tight will break it down and actually causing it to lube the screw. Is there a high temp lock-tight? What can I do to keep this from coming loose and backing down the shaft? I thought about drilling a hole in the shaft and using one of those set screw/pin. But I scared that will weaken the shaft.
#3177
I got a issue, maybe ya'll can help. I have the traction drive installed. It works amazingly. Just that it get hot, and It should as it allow the clutch to slip. My issue is the set screw keeps coming lose. I've tried several different spring tensions and that doesn't effect it any. I've also tried different lock-tight. I understand that heating up lock-tight will break it down and actually causing it to lube the screw. Is there a high temp lock-tight? What can I do to keep this from coming loose and backing down the shaft? I thought about drilling a hole in the shaft and using one of those set screw/pin. But I scared that will weaken the shaft.
#3178
SO, I am absolutely loving this truggy! I ran into an issue with the switch though yesterday while burning some laps... My truck just stopped at one point and I couldn't for the life of me figure out why!
After I got home and started taking things apart little by little I noticed that a rock got lodged down by my ESC and the drive-shaft. When I pulled it out I noticed that it also was rubbing on the wire to my switch and that was where my problem was.
Is it going to be an issue that I cut the wires for the switch, twisted them together and taped them to the side of my ESC? Now to turn it off or on I just plug it in or unplug the battery. I don't think there should be any problems?
After I got home and started taking things apart little by little I noticed that a rock got lodged down by my ESC and the drive-shaft. When I pulled it out I noticed that it also was rubbing on the wire to my switch and that was where my problem was.
Is it going to be an issue that I cut the wires for the switch, twisted them together and taped them to the side of my ESC? Now to turn it off or on I just plug it in or unplug the battery. I don't think there should be any problems?
#3179
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,486
From: Greenville, SC
Good question for the vendor of the electronics you're using, not really Tekno. That being said, I don't do it as I have never had issues since I just a dab of CA glue to attach the switch to the ESC, but it's a pretty common practice to cut the switch and connect the two wires.
#3180



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