I run 6s. same pinion as with 4s.

... soooooo what pinion? I'm just trying to get a gauge here. I went with an 18 tooth to start with because that's all my local shop had and I wanted to be able to drive! LoL...

I just don't want to let my motor get too hot... looking for that sweet spot

15

13-15 is what you want on this truggy.

this is my mates Tekno ET48 and his SCT410
he say that thing fly and is the best truggy he ever brought and driven he cant get nuff off it loves it so much he going to buy the nitro version next

Wow... that's a lot lower than I thought! Alright, I will get some on order I suppose.

Thank you sir!

On another note...

When taking "droop" out of the rear... are you guys just talking about un-screwing the screws in the arms so that it hits the little tabs on the chassis plate? If so, am I just supposed to make it so that the arms are straight and not hanging down when I lift the truck off of the ground?

Very sharp!

Taking Droop out means limiting the down travel of the a-arms. Increasing droop is the opposite, you will have more down travel on the a-arms. So yes you use those screws on the underside of the a-arms to adjust it, and its usually measured by the length of the shock from eyelet to eyelet.
I put RC8T droop screws in since they have a hex on the tip of the screw so you can adjust it from the topside.

looking for a new servo
I have the JR 9100T
what servos are you guys running?
I run hitec 7955tg in my ebuggy
and sct410 thanks

you can slot the front and rear holes or remove the nipples and just run full velcro down the sides of the body with no body clips.

i like the velcro myself.

the velcro is what Ill probably do
what velcro do you use? I tried it years ago and couldnt get it to stick to sides of chassis

i use the industrial strength velcro brand. I also put a bead of ca around the edges and pull the hook part on the car and the fuzz part on the bodies

I run a Savox 1268, its been running great and has plenty of power. It has to be run on 7.4v for 1/8 scale duty, torque output jumps about 150 oz on high voltage. A guy on eBay was selling a bunch of them nib for $65-70 each when I bought mine.

Protek 170S or 170T

By far the best servo I've used...super quiet, absolutely No noise and all the torque you will ever need. Works perfect with the Tekno Aluminum Servo Horn. They're a little spendy but will worth the money not to have to listen to a whiny servo!

I agree. I'm running the 170S at 7.4 volts and I'm very happy with it.

Do you guys think there's any difference between steel pinions made by different companies? Are any brands more precisely machined than others or are any made out of higher quality steel?

I know mod 1 should be mod 1 but I'm just curious. I don't even know what brand I'm running since I bought a 3 pack from the LHS when I bought my RC8.2e. I just know I'm running 16t on my ET48 and 17 on my EB48.2.

Any that seem to run quieter than others? My truggy seems to have more gear noise than some others out there. It's not loud like the RTR cars seem to be but it makes me think a higher quality pinion might be a good thing.

I'm running the stock plastic spur.