Pavement. I've only had the opportunity to run on carpet once.

Hello all - quick question on wheel base. When the set up sheet says 1mm for rear, does that mean 1mm shim on both outer and inner side, outer/inner only (shorten/lengthen)? What about the inherent play of the a-arm?

Appreciate the feedback.

Duplicate

All in all you have to shim 3mm between the arm and the arm mounts. 1mm means that you put a 1mm shim at the place the setup sheet shows and put the 2mm shim on the other side of the arm; so that it moves free without having slop.

Thank you for the info!

Need some help with my 6.1
I've noticed that the rear sway bar (white) one side lifts the opposite wheel earlier than the other. I've done all the standard stuff ie. With the shocks off I've swapped the swab as from side to side, flipped the mount, tried adjusting the ball link to even them out and checked that the linkages and arms move smooth and free all to no avail. Any insight would help.

Make both links the same left to right, the upright portions. Then after that make both the sway bar links the same length (the actual sway bars) then see how that works. You might have to adjust the upright lengths a little bit. For the cars that I have and have worked on associated wise. That really helped and seem to make them just about even.

Yeah I did all that it's a drastic difference about 6-7 mm from side to side but I can't find any binding

Making the uprights the same then making the length inbetween each mount the same. and nothing is binding then I'd say check your arms and bulkheads to make sure they are not bent. I occasionally bend the eyelet on the end of the upright link the plastic portion. That wont help either. Your arms and camber links are super free.

Check your sway bars and make sure they are perfectly straight. I notice that mine bend over time right where the set screws sit on them.

I didn't hear mention of droop??
If the droop heights are unequal so will the sway bars. Probably obvious but I thought I'd ask.
Rick Howart seems to prefer the old bars vs the new because of bending issues.

Another thing... avoid stressing about irregularities beyond the normal scope of the arms actual movement as they will never see that range of movement when in use.

Does anybody have a used gear diff they would sell? Would buy a new one but thought I would try to get a used one first.

can someone tell me the pros and cons of using shock fluid or diff fluid for rear diff and what weight would be good for 25.5 vta?

Anyone have any leads on aluminum steering blocks for the 6.1/6.2. I've checked everywhere I could via Google, but no joy. Do they make such an animal for the 6.1/6.2? I'm looking for more durability and eliminating the stripped ball stud syndrome. Any help is appreciated.

Jerry B.

Never heard of any aluminium steering blocks (just c-hubs).
The only way to prevent stripping as long as possible, is with a 10mm ballstud.