I've eliminated damage to my front arms by building a custom Kydex bumper:







If you don't want to make one yourself... I'll sell one for $15 shipped in the US, you need to cut 3mm off the posts of the upper deck support, then use longer M3x20mm screws to fasten the Kydex bumper. Usually the Kydex bends with hard hits, and I can bend it back, I've yet to break an arm or upright with the bumper yet, but I have damaged the lower bumper mount once from a really hard crash into a disabled car on the track once. I've been racing with a 21.5T motor in the USGT class.

That's what I'll do, although I've used that in the past. It's too bad no one makes the aluminum ones. When you drive like me, you need all the help you can get. Thanks for the feedback.

Jerry B.

I would suggest a wider, hard front bumper. Reflex Racing makes one for the TC6.1 chassis.

1st. Time getting into TC and quite impress with this new leftover kit and handles very well straight out of the box plus it's power plant!

Again I am rookie in TC with TC6.1 with ESC RS gen 2 & Novak 10.5.
What kind of suspension set up for a loose traction parking lot racing in shock oil, springs, camber, toe & .......
We are on Sweeps as spec tire?
As you can see above & now picture of the surface which is on loose side on traction especially rear
and bumps from what kind of layout we are running on.
Thanks in advance.

Im new to tc.my current set up is silver spings and 35 oil.green and 30.running 32 on fron and 24 rears.as soon as the prep is gone I have no rear traction. .any one have a low grip 17.5 set up

Both of you can check petitrc for TC6 setups. There are some 17.5t setups from my racing days, so you can get some inspiration of what to do.

Its possible that by running a softer tire, oil and spring in the rear than the front it is overheating the rear tire making it loose in the middle to end of the run. Its rare to see different shore tires front to rear on a 4wd touring car. What kind of track? For carpet I like 28 to 32's front and back, and asphalt I like 36 to 40. For more rear traction you could increase camber and toe in the rear. Petit does have some great setups check it out. However when in doubt go back to box stock and check everything for proper operation (bearings, ball cups, etc.) you dont want any binding. Balance is key also. You can check left right balance with a piece of fishing line strung through the small holes in the center of the front and rear tower. Front to back you can check by positioning a fulcrum in the center. But in general do the L/R and add weight to the light side in the rear first.

Give this a try, guys:

Shocks:
Oil - 30 wt. oil Associated
Piston - Front #2,
Rear #3
Rebound - none
Springs - Front: Silver,
Rear: Green
Position - Front Shock Tower / Lower Arm: 4B
Rear Shock Tower / Lower Arm: 5B

Suspension:
Camber Link Position - Inner: V3 (F & R) 1mm shim,
Outer Rear: 2mm shim
Suspension Mount Position - Front: A
Rear: A
Wheelbase - Front 1mm,
Rear 2mm
Camber - Front: 1 deg
Rear: 1 deg
Bumpsteer - 1mm
Battery Placement- Rear
Toe - Front: 1 deg out,
Rear: 3 deg in
Droop - Front: 4mm
Rear: 4mm
Drivetrain:
Diff - Front: Spool
Rear: 2000 wt. oil CST
Cam holder - Front: A
Rear: A
Traction Additive - Front: 1/2 tire
Rear: Full Tire

Just one question:
I guess you refere to the lower arm mount. What height? 0...3?

Yes, the lower arm mount position on the bulkhead. Use the lower of the two, which is the "A" position. Use #1 suspension mounts.

A1 is really low!
As far as I know kit setup is B2, many Team setups have B0 or A3
I'm currently switching between B2 and A3 and back.
But anyway - if you're happy with A1 it might be worth giving it a try!

TC6 TC6TEK CHASSIS CONVERSION anyone know were i can find one

I'm also curious about the answer to this question. I just put all new ceramic (grease removed) bearings into my car, but everything still feels stiff. So, I too am wondering if there is a solution to the stiffness.

Have you tried the website:

exotekracing.com