I went to the track today ran two practice and one quail. my problem is after the big double my esc shut off. now the car does seem to hit hard. so my only thing is does a hard hit cause this kinda thing. i have rechecked my joints and they all seem good. Or maybe it the battery hitting something and losing power. i have the esc strapped down with Velcro. after talking to some off the guy they said my joint look better than there. i also solder some of the other guy car they have no problem. Now this did happen with two 4s lipos of the same make so either it a lipo problem or im missing something. if i turn the esc back on it reboot and just get the n light only. im still on the 238 update also. did not change anything in the esc but for the 4s lipos and to turn on the 7.4 volts and fwd only this is a first time for me having this issue. This is with dean connecters and yes they are brand new ones on lipo and esc. they also have plenty of length for chassis flex. i am a little stumped i went from a second place to a last place cause i had to come out. then it rained so no qualifying after that run. esc hit a 130 f with no fan motor was a 101 after 5 or 6 minutes of run time. lipo still had any where from 3.87 to 3.96 on all cell in both 4s packs.

You need to update to 250 software. When the car turns off, do you lose steering?

When it powers back on, it is quick? Or do you have to cycle the on/off switch?

i have to cycle the on off switch. Im not to sure on the steering though cause i was thinking off why does this happen. i think i still had steering. i had a lot running in my mind like there goes 2nd place and why. i will do the update to the 250
Im gonna watch my video and see if I still had the go pro on.i would post it here but for the life of me I can not export anything lol.

I am having the same issues, they just started this weekend. I do have steering but on throttle, at one point I had nothing at all had to unplug to get anything back. The last time I had to press the post and it fired back up, didn't have any problems the rest of the day ( but waiting for the other shoe to drop). I am afraid the broad may have a crack or broken joint. I have to look at which software I have.

Hello randy after watching my video i had no power to the esc when i made it back to the pits. after watching the whole video that was not one of the hard landings. when i took my lid off the esc was dead so no steering. i did turn it off and on again and it did reboot normally. i did not change or touch the battery. but i did do the return to neutral and hit the gas and brake deal do know why the esc was not let up. good thing for the video also it did happen at 5 minutes and 42 seconds.

Ok if the esc is losing power, you need to inspect all your battery connections. I always suggest skipping one of the 2s packs just to eliminate the jumper lead if you're using 2 2s packs for example. yes it will be slow, but the car still smacks the same! lol

If you're having a momentary loss of drive, make sure you're on 250 software. If you are and still having issues please post:

Car
Battery
Motor
Gearing
Settings
Servo
Radio System

I am on straight 4s. I will try the update and see what happens. Seeing how me and one other guy re did my battery deans connection. Small question on the updates what kinda of stuff is on them. Like is it running soft wear or just too complicated to say. I come from novak so I never had to update an esc.

Randy,

I know it's probably been asked before, but I'm new to the e-buggy crowd (been running nitro for many years). I've got a couple of issues that I'd like your input on.

I've got an RX8-Gen 2 / 1900KV combo in my MBX-7 ECO (16/46 gearing). Ryan Lutz suggested I make the following changes to the base setup to get a smoother power delivery

Current limiter 65
Throttle Min 2
Brake Min 1
Drag Brake 5
Timing Advance 5
Change end RPM to 40,000
Then choose the start RPM that's close to 6000.

I tried that, but didn't like using drag brake, so I dropped that to zero. I also dropped the brake strength down quite a bit to prevent locking up the wheels.

Here's where I'm having concerns....

First, there are a few sections of my local track that require a quick on-off-on pull of the throttle. No brakes, just blips to clear certain jumps. I'm getting what almost feels like a short delay between the time I pull the trigger, and the corresponding acceleration from the car. I'm running a Futaba 4PK, so I doubt it's radio lag. It's also only in those certain sections where I'm having the problem. Could it be one of the settings that's causing the delay?

Second, on an 80-85 deg. day my motor temp is generally between 175-190. When running the stock 14T pinion, my ESC wasn't even getting to 100 deg, but the motor was still around 175 - 185. I bumped up to the 16T, thinking I was just over-revving the motor. With 16/46 gearing, the motor still gets in that 185 average, and the ESC is around 110-115 after an 8 -10 minute race. I opened up a few holes on the body to get more air flow, but it didn't make much difference. My EPA is usually around 80%......are these temps OK? I considered dropping down to a 15T pinion, but like I said, motor temps have been about the same with a 14T and 16T.

Noithing is binding up in the drivetrain, and it may be fine. I just wanted to make sure I'm not running it too hot.

My answers in red above

Don't forget to look at where your Neutral width setting is at. I would suggest setting it at 10 to help take away and delay in response time when pulling the trigger

with the discussion of set up- I set my brakes on the ESC to 100%. Then I use the EPA on my radio (Spektrum DX3R Pro) to turn them down as needed. I think this makes it easy to adjust brakes from track to track and in changing conditions as the day goes on.
Is this a good idea, or is it better to set them on the ESC? I have not experienced any issues, but thought I would ask.

It's fine. However in 1/8 100% can break the car lol.

So if you do reduce it on the esc, you're giving yourself better resolution or "smaller steps" when you do use your Epa's on your transmitter.

yes, the brakes are really good with this set up. On both my SCT410 and EB48 I turn the brakes down to about 50% anyway. I think I will try to turn the brakes down a little on the ESC to get the better resolution, and fine tune it with the radio

Thanks for the info Randy. I'll check my radio settings in the morning.

Regarding the other issue, I didn't have any problems making 10 minutes with the EPA set to 100%. It was set to 80 with the 14T and the 16T.....reducing it was more to control those "whisky throttle" moments, and minimize over jumping everything by about 30 feet!

I'm used to powerful engines from racing nitro, but dang.....I wasn't prepared for how explosive 1/8th scale electrics can be!

I'll dial it up to 100% the next time I'm at the track, and have a 15T on hand to put on. Just in case though, other than a bunch of vent holes in the body, should I do anything specific if the temp goes over 190 as the summer gets hotter?

Yeah, I'd say so.....even with Ryan's suggestions for the ESC, my first time on the track with my MBX7 ECO was with the brake EPA at 100%. I got to the 180 at the end of the front straight, and hit the brakes hard like I do on my nitro car......buggy stood up on the nose, and did two complete front flips.

I now have the brake setting fairly low in the ESC, and well below 100% on the radio. LOL