I'm not a huge fan of fans on motors, and certainly not relying on them for temps.

Murphy's Law thinking means it will fail when you need it. The then clip on heat obstructing device(failed fan) will prevent any airflow from reaching the motor.

Good point. Fortunately my setup never gets over 190* without the fan I'm still good.

I have a fan mounted behind my motor on my 8-E-3.0 blowing out the rear. It is only a 30MM fan but by blowing air out from under the body it dropped my motor temp 10-15 degrees (it was already in a safe zone, about 170F after 10 minutes, but I figure the cooler the better). I have found that fans mounted vertically last much longer than those mounted horizontally. Also the thicker the fan is, the more robust they tend to be and you can frequently use a thicker fan mounted vertically than horizontally on top of the motor.

What is everyone using for connectors. I just bought a RX8 gen 2 and will be running 1/8th scale for the first time. The batteries I have use deans connectors so thats what I put on my ESC. I have heard that deans only flow 60-100an continuous. Is anyone using ec3 same flow as deans or ec5 which is closer to 200a. Coming from mod sedan I use 5mm banana plugs. Don't want to fry anything first time out so looking for some info.

Deans are fine...if you're melting them you're doing something wrong

I just had a guy at the hobby shop solder an rx8 gen 2 to my brushless sensored motor. i told him to solder the corresponding letters to each other a, b, c. But he soldered a to c and c to a. I havent turned the system on yet or anything. Could I run in reverse mode in the ESC?

No. A sensored setup has to be wired to have the terminals match.

Thats exactly wat i thought thanks for the response, local hobby shop service aint wat it used to be...

I haven't had the time to solder up my ESC yet.

I just finished college finals today. It's time to get a nice 100W iron and finish the job.

Nope, take it back and have it wired correctly or you can damage it.

You could temporarily remove the sensor harness completely and run it sensorless.

hi guys, sorry for invading your offroad section again but it is where the rx8 gen 2 thread is, i posted a few pages back about getting the rsx or rx8 for my 1/10 tc lola car. i got the rx8 and just used it for my last club race day.
All i can say is wow dont know how it done it but it DID run my sp 4.5t motor faster and cooler then my faithful castle mmp on the identical setup, i gained nearly 0.4 sec on my best lap all the while extending motor life,
very happy customer ,
cheers
oldenuff

Randy ,

I have a 2050 and its giving me some issues.

I first used it in a x ray 808e , and its always been warm. I ran a set up I mentioned here before and it was over 200 deg after a pack. That buggy had 4:30 diffs and a 42 spur. I ran a 18 and the rotor came apart on the 4th or 5th pack. I assumed at the time the failing rotor may have been causing my issues.

I pulled the system and sold that buggy . I bought a xb9e and put the system in that buggy with a new rotor and bearings . The drive train on the buggy is fresh , new bearings etc. The xb9 has 3.33 diffs with a 46 spur and the math led me to a 15t pinion.
Esc with the 15t came off at 3 lights , and the motor came off at 215. With a 14t 210 , and with a 13t 220ish.

LM has been set to 60% and my radio is on 90% .

Is a 16 or 17 going to cool it down ? Opinions ?

thanks .

I am trying to program my RX8 Gen2. I am running a 1900 motor.
Can someone running this combo let me know which timing profile should I run general??? Running on a large size track

C1 or C2??????

Running a Mugen MBX-7 Eco with a 16/46

C1 and C2 Timing profiles are custom profiles where you can adjust the timing to your liking. The T8 systems run better with lower timing settings. I recommend timing profile 1 and then just adjust your gearing to suit your needs for the track.

ok Thank you!