Cain
The "diff" clicking coming when on the throttle does it happen all the time or just some times? Mine is an older version and I am starting to get a clicking or ratcheting sound when I am hard on the throttle. I run a high bite indoor track (Trackside in Milwaukee) and this clicking just started. I think I remember reading here about the shims but not sure what needs to be done.
Thanks for any help,
Mark

Sounds like a diff issue to me (shim). The Clicker will normally not make any sound (locked down) or click only off power when the clicker ratchet freewheels. And just because you said yours was older I would check the shims anyways. The older trucks came with a 0.02mm internal shim and a 0.02mm external shim. This arrangement didn't put enough pressure on the internal sun gears and caused them to strip. AE issued thicker shims 0.05mm to be used only internally and the external shim was not used. A clicking sound on power usually means too much clearance (slop) has developed between the internal gears and they are skipping and grinding (bad). It could also be an issue with the belt, if it is too loose or worn out it will skip on hard braking, but I have rarely seen this (belt slip) on power. Give AE a call and they should send you the thicker shims for free.

+1 Shark!

You may also want to put in new gears too while you are at it.

Would you guys choose a sc10 over the Losi for this track, or no?

before you try a bunch of thing.... look at you belt!!!! i had this sound to but when i hit breaks hard. it was the front gear slipping on the belt i just tighten the tension and it stop... so if it does this on throttle it could be the back not the front. also it helps if you have the chassis brace. i could be wrong but if not it's easy fix!!!

hey guys. it's been a while since i have run my truck, much less visited this thread. can someone either link me to the page where the 8mm mod is explained or give me a quick explanation of how to do it and why one would? i've used the search function and it is still pretty tough to sift through. thanks in advance.

part 1 you need 12mm ballstud(http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...Ballstud-Set-2) i think 10mm works to.

part 2you need a taller hub to make your camber links even so you don't get crazy camber gains (http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-C-Tower-Set-2)

part 3 buy shims that = 8mm

what it does it try to fix a bad design truck... there to much weight in the rear... so this mod lower the roll center!!! by doing this it make the chassis roll less (move weight around less in the rear)... kinda like sway-bar but it does not restrict the suspension movement(so you would keep more grip).

I have the Cdiff version 2. My concern is going to the version 3 is the gearing change. How big of a pinion change are you guys seeing? I am showing something down in a 10 or 11 tooth based on the changes in teeth. This is a 3 tooth drop. can anyone tell me what they are seeing? I am assuming I have messed up something somewhere at a 3 tooth change.

I think I will run one of these for our fall/winter indoor season. It is a mid sized indoor high bite clay track and I want something a little different. I won't be running it every week so maint shouldn't be a problem for me. It is a 2nd class to run with some of my buddies from time to time. Going to use a Castle 3800 4 pole in it will be plenty of power for this lighweight truck.

Do the new Factory Team versions have the updated shim so the gears fit tighter. That is one thing I read and know from a few guys that had this truck is that the shim spacing was wrong in the beginning. I don't want to build it and have to get back in the tranny again. Hope Associated has an addendum sheet in the directions or the new FT directions already have this modification.

I think they have. I seem to recall someone buying one new finding that it did. You may want to call AE as its possible the stock out there if you order online may be older than when they made the cut over. Heck, Ae has been pretty liberal about providing the shims, I know I just emailed them for the vheicles I had and they sent them out at the time, no need of proof of purchase, etc.

You may want to talk with Shark about the mods he has done for his lightweight SC10 4x4, it sounds like for your conditions could be the hot ticket. He also has done some interesting work on an sc10 4x2 conversion. With the price these go for used, could be a nice vehicle to have too and share parts for the classes.

If he gives you a set up for 2wd I would like to se it to I have a spare parts truck that I would like to do the same thing to

Thanks Cain. On our track it does help if you have good steering and can get thru the corners fast. The SC10 4x4 seems from reading to like smaller sized tracks and indoor tracks better than outdoors. Good for me as I only race indoors anymore. Belts from my experiance accelerate smoother overall which makes them nicer to drive.

Only other question is about the center diff some of you guys talk about. I think its after market but wondering about that. Again my track is indoors and the last time I saw a FT SC10 4x4 race at our track was one of my buddies that use to race for Associated. Truck was super fast, turned quickly and was really hooked up. He hated the truck but did he wheel that thing and smoke everyone. I remember him using a 540 sized motor (4.5 is what he ran)

SC10 with centerdif would be really good on that track IMO

I bought my FT SC10 4X4 about a year ago. Ran it a few times, got a little frustrated, and put it away until recently. I have been making adjustments, largest going from a stick pack set-up, side, to a square battery set up, center. Big improvement! Really the only thing I am unhappy with is rear traction exiting corners. The truck wants to spin out exiting corners.
Rough set up:
Front Diff 7K
Rear Diff 5K
Shocks F 35W, R 30W
Clicker locked
Proline Suburbs/Blue Closed Cell on all 4
Tekin 4000K Motor
Other than that set-up per build instructions
Track Medium traction clay

Any Suggestions?

Oh, this is my first 4X4.

Real bad spin out on corner exit always came from neglected rear diff for me. The oil leaks out over time.

Kevin