Assuming a slipper setup here, have you thought of trying the Center Diff?

Another item would be the M2C Rear toe in block for more toe. those two items really helped getting the rear end planted and overall performance.

Yes still the stock slipper.

cdiff will help alot

How does that cdiff hold up in moist/almost mucky conditions?? Looks somewhat exposed to me.

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well. i have my front and rear dust cover on(no mid). every once and a while i take it apart ant clean every thing and put fresh grease in.

Have you tried the rear camber link mod? We run with a carbon c tower flipped upside down on the rear hub carrier and raise the inner camber link 7-8mm.

For those of you who tried the 8mm mod, how many shims did you use under the front shock tower ballstuds?

This mod only works on loose tracks and will lead to traction rolling on high bite tracks which is why those who try and run this mod on high grip have to lower the front roll center to take some bite out of the front. Raising the outside links raises roll center not lower. The longer your links the more body roll you will get which will lead to more lateral grip. short links tend to rotate more. A sway bar also is not a good way to compare the 8mm mod, a sway bar limits roll and takes grip away because it takes away weight transfer, This is why this trucks likes a really stiff front sway bar and low front roll center because due to the placement of the motor it tends to transfer lots of weight towards the front on turn entry.
The easiest way to explain the feel of the 8mm mod is that the rear tends to follow the front around but in control. But will start to grab after its initial movement (traction roll)
so in short:

• lower roll center has less entry grip more exit grip
• higher roll center has more initial grip but less exit grip
• sway bars limit traction on said end
• the 8mm mod works best on loose tracks
• when you raise the inside and outside roll centers at the same time it lowers roll center

By definition raising the inside and outside lower roll center so on a fast sweeper the rear of the truck will drift and then grab and that usually ends up rolling over. On a short low speed tight track it may work ok but not really needed.

I have the M2C toe block and have wound up snapping 4 hinge pins(average one a race day) and I'm tired of DNFng the mains. Has anyone else encountered this problem? There isnt any binding of the arms at all, just both ends snap at the fillet every time. Anyone know of a solution?

Texag84, I have been using the M2C blocks since mid 2012 and between the three SC10 4x4's I owned I put over 70 weekends of practice/racing on them without one hinge pin failure. Something does not sound right, is the breakage happening after a hard crash or just during normal racing? How much toe/anti squat are you running? And are you saying you snap both ends of the same hinge pin? You may also want to contact M2C directly, perhaps there was a bad batch (under/over hardened pins) or at least suggest a cure or provide a reason for the failures.

It doesn't really happen after a crash. We have a big triple in our infield that is easily cleared by this truck and i'll downside it and seems like every main (after two heats) the passenger rear shears off the front and back of the pin and I'm done. The triple is the only impact that is hard on the track and we average 12 laps a race. I'm running 2 antisquat and 3.5 toe at the moment. I'll give them a call.

Sounds like a normal setup to me, no hard landings so I have no idea on what could be causing your issue. I ran for a while on a outdoor track featuring big jumps. This was before I had the cDiff and it was extremely hard to control my truck in the air and I crashed a lot, but never broke any hinge pins. Yeah contact M2C and explain your problem, hopefully they will have an answer.

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