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Old 04-20-2014 | 04:21 AM
  #7516  
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ok, rerbuild my diffs and break them in like un4racing his video.
much smoother under high pressure!!!
make also a miscalculation, the forse of the slipper is stonger than 1 diff, but when i block front en rear wheels the forse of the both diffs together is much stronger than the slipper, so i can tighten the slipper further.

correct me if i'm wrong
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Old 04-20-2014 | 06:13 AM
  #7517  
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Originally Posted by Svendc
ok, rerbuild my diffs and break them in like un4racing his video.
much smoother under high pressure!!!
make also a miscalculation, the forse of the slipper is stonger than 1 diff, but when i block front en rear wheels the forse of the both diffs together is much stronger than the slipper, so i can tighten the slipper further.

correct me if i'm wrong
Sounds like you have it. About 4-6 inches of slip is a good starting point.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 06:34 AM
  #7518  
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Hey guys still looking for a way to calm this car down. It's pretty bad when my mid motor car has more traction and I'm able to turn faster lap times with it. I did take the rear sway bar off and it did help a little. But it's like the car turns in so hard it breaks the rear loose. I also turned the travel down on the throttle to 85 percent as well. Also moved the Ackerman on the j concepts rack to the front hole. Car is all stock setup. Any help Is appreciated
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Old 04-20-2014 | 07:06 AM
  #7519  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
Hey guys still looking for a way to calm this car down. It's pretty bad when my mid motor car has more traction and I'm able to turn faster lap times with it. I did take the rear sway bar off and it did help a little. But it's like the car turns in so hard it breaks the rear loose. I also turned the travel down on the throttle to 85 percent as well. Also moved the Ackerman on the j concepts rack to the front hole. Car is all stock setup. Any help Is appreciated
on the tracks i run, i had mostly the opposite.

try 30wt of 27.5wt and green or even black rear springs.
front diff little more tight
and loosen the rear diff 1/8 to 1/4 from tight, like un4racings video clip.

weight!!! try 40 to 87grams of balast between the saddles.

you van also experiment with the front camberlinks in 1e hole insteat of the 2e, it wil calm also the steering down.

check also ride height 1mm in front higher in your case.

and most of all the right fresh tires

good luck

Sven
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Old 04-20-2014 | 07:07 AM
  #7520  
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Tires were brand new and the correct tire for the track.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 07:11 AM
  #7521  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
Hey guys still looking for a way to calm this car down. It's pretty bad when my mid motor car has more traction and I'm able to turn faster lap times with it. I did take the rear sway bar off and it did help a little. But it's like the car turns in so hard it breaks the rear loose. I also turned the travel down on the throttle to 85 percent as well. Also moved the Ackerman on the j concepts rack to the front hole. Car is all stock setup. Any help Is appreciated
Keep travel at full lock , I personally play with expo just to dumb down initial steering input , makes more forgiving . Perhaps diff settings are incorrect easy one to play with at the track
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Old 04-20-2014 | 07:11 AM
  #7522  
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING
Sounds like you have it. About 4-6 inches of slip is a good starting point.
tkx for all your video posts, it makes the difference
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Old 04-20-2014 | 07:39 AM
  #7523  
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Would the avid chassis help or hurt my situation. I forgot but I'm also running the stock chassis but with the big weight between the saddles. Maybe the extra weight is causing the rear to swing it around?
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Old 04-20-2014 | 07:52 AM
  #7524  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
Would the avid chassis help or hurt my situation. I forgot but I'm also running the stock chassis but with the big weight between the saddles. Maybe the extra weight is causing the rear to swing it around?
The Avid will plant the kit more on all four corners. Much better weight placement options. Try moving the front inner camber link to the inner hole on the top deck. If that isn't enough to calm it down add a shim in the front shock and move the front lower shock eyelets inward.
Work on the front. You can try a stiffer front spring first. Red is a good option.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 07:53 AM
  #7525  
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Originally Posted by Svendc
tkx for all your video posts, it makes the difference
Thanks and your welcome.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 10:15 AM
  #7526  
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My bro just built a new 44.2 and we are having a steering binding issue I cannot figure out.

here is a quick video of the issue. any help is greatly appreciated! Hoping a missed something dumb/easy.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 10:33 AM
  #7527  
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OK thanks will try the avid chassis
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Old 04-20-2014 | 10:45 AM
  #7528  
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When Hartson was here last week end had the chance to check out his ride very carefully.
It sported ball diff's & a proto type heavy duty CVA coupling for the rear drive shaft.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 12:29 PM
  #7529  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
When Hartson was here last week end had the chance to check out his ride very carefully.
It sported ball diff's & a proto type heavy duty CVA coupling for the rear drive shaft.
sounds... all new wheeler lol
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Old 04-20-2014 | 02:50 PM
  #7530  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
When Hartson was here last week end had the chance to check out his ride very carefully.
It sported ball diff's & a proto type heavy duty CVA coupling for the rear drive shaft.
Was it metal or the lighter beige plastic they use in the diff gear? They used a heavy duty couplings at the Worlds that resembled the beige plastic.
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