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Old 04-18-2014 | 06:08 PM
  #36076  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Personally, i would suggest the following to get:

- M2C Rear toe in Block
- RC Shox Center Diff

using the M2C rear toe in block to get more rear toe in really helps plant the vehicle. and the RC Shox Center Diff from what I have seen and others is a real improvement over the Slipper setup. Getting that rear end to plant will give you the confidence you need. On the dust bowl loose conditions here the truck was so back i could do spins down the straight. it was that bad before the M2C toe in block. with it, I could literally pitch the truck nearly side ways off of jumps hit the ground and confidently power through turns.

Outside of that, if you need quick turn ability as well as traction, you could try even lighter diff oil weight, this is what I did on my teknos for technical tracks but its something you have to be used to driving. The hudy guide in combination with the pavadis guide gives a nice breakdown of settings and what they do.

If you find you are in the market for a new motor, I personally would suggest a 540 4 pole motor at a minimum to give you more grunt than you are seeing now. Depending on track size, you may find just going with the 4600kv version best to start with. 4000kv Tekin though is a great small to medium track motor.

Tuning it with boost software (VERY LITTLE, like 5 degreees) and only at a high RPM starting point works well to get more top speed. Thats what I had to do to keep temps reasonable.

All in all, my most enjoyment with the truck outside of the parts you already have came from buying the RC Shox Center Diff, pistons, and M2C Rear toe in block.
Okay thanks so much! I'll look into the parts
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Old 04-18-2014 | 06:10 PM
  #36077  
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Originally Posted by imrob
Has any one mounted the pro line flow tek evo body on there 4x4 yet.

i was trying to line this bad boy up so i can paint. It either the back are off and the front fit or the back are on the dot then the fronts are off.

Right now im thinking of going with the rear end holes first.
then try to work the front. either way it goes you gonna have to hack the body to get it to fit. Yes i did get the pre cut 4x4 body it is longer. the raptor fit like a charm lol. Dont know how proline got this one out of wack.
YUPP had the same problem! pretty sure the dots are wrong
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Old 04-18-2014 | 06:54 PM
  #36078  
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Originally Posted by Tas724
Okay thanks so much! I'll look into the parts
Mantisworx (owner of RC Shox) think has the new Mod 1 spurs gears out now. If it was me andI wasn't invested in the 32P stuff, I would get that.
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Old 04-19-2014 | 09:39 AM
  #36079  
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Default proline evo body

Originally Posted by Tas724
YUPP had the same problem! pretty sure the dots are wrong
After doing some good looking at the body and post. i have came up with to use the front first holes since they line up good. Then for the back i had to go just past the second set off hole counting from the front of the car. i had to off set them to the inside off the holes then back just a little bit.. pretty much in between the 2nd set and 3rd set of holes. After doing the looking and moving the wheels up and down and turning them this seem to be the best placement for the hole body. I also think this well clear the 3mm wheel just fine with out extra trimming there. this way you only have to trim the front end a little and the back end a little. I really dont know how little yet since i do not have it painted yet. i also had to move the front and rear body post all the way up. i will use this body since i did buy it. I do not think as of right know this is the body to buy. the raptor body fit better. So if you looking for a direct fit look for some other body. if you want to raise you post up all the way and trim the front and rear this might not look to bad after being painted. i just do not know how bad this is gonna effect the air with the body being all the way up. i do not think it will be a good think. I will post a updated as soon as the lady paint it. in a week or two. I did try to take a picture of the body and marking but you can not see the dot on the body so i do not think it will help any one out there.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 11:49 AM
  #36080  
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Hi guys been a while since I posted in this thread.
I think im going to switch trucks this season. Run my slash 4wd and turn it into a latemodel for oval racing, and run the SC10 4wd offroad.

And I fixed the steering on my SC10 4wd today. I replaced that cheapo spring I had
in the steering assembly and installed the spring that's supposed to go in there,
It turns on a dime now, Im going to try it out on oval first since I lowered it.

I notice they dont make the TEAM Kit anymore, you have to buy the factory team version now. I went with the Team Kit at the time because it was cheaper.
Many people at my track ran the RPM Arms on the factory team kit. They said
the stock ones warped really bad. I think im the only one in my area that has one of these trucks.
Everyone is either running the Losi or the Tekno. It's kinda sad because I like this truck.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 12:02 PM
  #36081  
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I don't think they ever fixed the warping issue with the a-arms. RPM a-arms are still pretty popular talking to those who own the vehicle.

I think with a few tweaks to the vehicle it coudl draw a crowd again. A lot of it though is that it needs that refresh from AE. Maybe a V2 is in the works.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 03:06 PM
  #36082  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I don't think they ever fixed the warping issue with the a-arms. RPM a-arms are still pretty popular talking to those who own the vehicle.

I think with a few tweaks to the vehicle it coudl draw a crowd again. A lot of it though is that it needs that refresh from AE. Maybe a V2 is in the works.
My arms seem to do fine going on a second season with the arms. I always disconnect the shocks when I put my cars away though. Maybe that helps
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Old 04-20-2014 | 04:21 PM
  #36083  
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yeah, based on the stuff in the thread I think that does help.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 04:22 PM
  #36084  
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Originally Posted by imrob
I always disconnect the shocks when I put my cars away though. Maybe that helps
Haven't seen any issues with mine, but that's a good idea.
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Old 04-20-2014 | 11:01 PM
  #36085  
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Cain, I have an original first version rcshox center diff. What's the improvement with the ver3?
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Old 04-21-2014 | 05:30 AM
  #36086  
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier
Cain, I have an original first version rcshox center diff. What's the improvement with the ver3?

  • lightweight billet Delrin spur gear
  • MOD1 gears (require MOD1 pinion)
  • dust cover
  • no gear wobble
  • much smoother operation

Last edited by MantisWorx; 04-21-2014 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 04-21-2014 | 07:05 PM
  #36087  
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If they ever open the so called out door track in my hood. Ill be picking up that v3 set up the next day. so i hope your keeping them in stock..
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Old 04-21-2014 | 07:25 PM
  #36088  
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Stock is getting low as is public interest in this truck!I only have maybe 7 left out of 75, the 1st 50 went quick.
Its time for AE to release a new rig.Over the past 3 years there has been ups and downs with this truck and it seems like its in a bit of a valley right now. Look how slow this thread has become......
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Old 04-21-2014 | 07:31 PM
  #36089  
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+1
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Old 04-24-2014 | 04:46 PM
  #36090  
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Originally Posted by Cain
+1
I just think also that maybe people just learned the car. It seem once people learn how to set them up correctly for there driving style threads die off or slow down. Any new car will make a thread blow up before it even hit the market. That is how I look at it any ways. But yes I guess it might be time for an update for those that like to spend money.
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