Tekno SCT410 Thread
4mm is correct if looking for reamers for the inner hinge pins on the Tekno fleet.
I agree, I forgot the sharp knife in the prior list, that comes in handy for shaving off parts tree tabs...though they're in places where you can safely leave them except in the shocks, I can't help but clean it smooth when building.
I agree, I forgot the sharp knife in the prior list, that comes in handy for shaving off parts tree tabs...though they're in places where you can safely leave them except in the shocks, I can't help but clean it smooth when building.
Last edited by justpoet; 04-15-2014 at 11:39 AM.
So, I tore my truck apart to figure out what was going on in the rear. No bent hinge pins, diff was still smooth, nothing out of line, gear lash still good, out drives and coupler still good (a bit worn, but still good and not notched), antisway bars still move free and do their jobs. Shocks were smooth, but then I finally think I found it. I'd developed a slow leak out of the bottom of the left rear shock cartridge, so it isn't full anymore. I've never had a shock issue on these things, so i hadn't bothered to check that, doh! I'm guessing this made it soft enough that I started getting the chassis slap kick flip action when I didn't land just right and used throttle to fix my next jump takeoff, and of course also why it was odd handling in the turns.
I took the rear diff apart anyway as it is my lightest diff oil (3k), even though it was smooth, just to make sure everything was good. It was still full, not worn, and while the fluid was dark, I could still see through it.
Not bad for about a year with 3+ races a week. This is the biggest reason why I went Tekno and don't miss the Losi at all.
I took the rear diff apart anyway as it is my lightest diff oil (3k), even though it was smooth, just to make sure everything was good. It was still full, not worn, and while the fluid was dark, I could still see through it.
Not bad for about a year with 3+ races a week. This is the biggest reason why I went Tekno and don't miss the Losi at all.
I don't think it's necessary to use timing with a 4-pole if it's gear correctly. You might have to reduce the current or punch though for a lot of these motors to keep the heat and wheel spin in check.
Also one thing that people dont mention is that when you tone down the punch control your diff oils last much longer the oil doesnt turn black much at all. And the big plus is your tires last much longer. Yea the 4 pole motors do need the punch control tamed i never used timing on these motors actually i know guys who tried it and ended up changing it to no timing,.
I think timing on a 4 pole depends on the motor.
Tekins don't like timing, adds too much heat.
HW has a great powerband without timing but when you add timing at about 10k rpm the mid and top end become supercharged. Not that it needs it but if there's enough room to stretch your legs on the straight, it is an advantage. Without timing I temp at 125° and with 15° esc timing I temp at 145° max. Can't get it hotter even running 3 packs without stopping. 16t pinion.
The combo of your track, driving style and of course motor will determine timing or not. Run without and find a good pinion gear then add some timing and check temps every couple of minutes. Got too hot? Zero timing. Temps are OK and you picked up a little top end, congrats! If your pinion is a tooth too low you can make up for it by adding timing, again, temps allowing.
Tekins don't like timing, adds too much heat.
HW has a great powerband without timing but when you add timing at about 10k rpm the mid and top end become supercharged. Not that it needs it but if there's enough room to stretch your legs on the straight, it is an advantage. Without timing I temp at 125° and with 15° esc timing I temp at 145° max. Can't get it hotter even running 3 packs without stopping. 16t pinion.
The combo of your track, driving style and of course motor will determine timing or not. Run without and find a good pinion gear then add some timing and check temps every couple of minutes. Got too hot? Zero timing. Temps are OK and you picked up a little top end, congrats! If your pinion is a tooth too low you can make up for it by adding timing, again, temps allowing.
Drill the side holes.
Put bladder in cap.
Fill and bleed shocks.
Put cap half on.
Push shaft in so far as you want rebound. Let oil escape out of side hole.
Screw cap all the way in.
Easy and consistent.
Check bladder from time to time by stretching a little. If running no limiters the rear shock nut hits the bladder.
Put bladder in cap.
Fill and bleed shocks.
Put cap half on.
Push shaft in so far as you want rebound. Let oil escape out of side hole.
Screw cap all the way in.
Easy and consistent.

Check bladder from time to time by stretching a little. If running no limiters the rear shock nut hits the bladder.



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