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Old 04-15-2014 | 02:55 AM
  #21406  
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Originally Posted by Cain
been awhile, how are things everyone!

So, whats the hot extra low traction setup people are running now?
I'm finding that going out one the f/r hubs helps calm the truck down a lot without sacrificing steering.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 03:12 AM
  #21407  
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Originally Posted by AlanHall
just you order all that hardware individually? is it titanium ?
Yea its Titanium, I ordered the 2 screw kits from Lunsford but then replaced a lot of the screws with the flathead ones so I could use the countersunk washers.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 09:57 AM
  #21408  
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I'm about to order some suspension arm reamers for my cars. What size would one get for this vehicle? 4mm?
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Old 04-15-2014 | 10:51 AM
  #21409  
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Originally Posted by King DORK
I'm about to order some suspension arm reamers for my cars. What size would one get for this vehicle? 4mm?
I got the Hudy 4mm and it works great. The integy one is too dull to cut into the tekno arms.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 11:17 AM
  #21410  
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4mm is correct if looking for reamers for the inner hinge pins on the Tekno fleet.

I agree, I forgot the sharp knife in the prior list, that comes in handy for shaving off parts tree tabs...though they're in places where you can safely leave them except in the shocks, I can't help but clean it smooth when building.

Last edited by justpoet; 04-15-2014 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 11:38 AM
  #21411  
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So, I tore my truck apart to figure out what was going on in the rear. No bent hinge pins, diff was still smooth, nothing out of line, gear lash still good, out drives and coupler still good (a bit worn, but still good and not notched), antisway bars still move free and do their jobs. Shocks were smooth, but then I finally think I found it. I'd developed a slow leak out of the bottom of the left rear shock cartridge, so it isn't full anymore. I've never had a shock issue on these things, so i hadn't bothered to check that, doh! I'm guessing this made it soft enough that I started getting the chassis slap kick flip action when I didn't land just right and used throttle to fix my next jump takeoff, and of course also why it was odd handling in the turns.

I took the rear diff apart anyway as it is my lightest diff oil (3k), even though it was smooth, just to make sure everything was good. It was still full, not worn, and while the fluid was dark, I could still see through it.

Not bad for about a year with 3+ races a week. This is the biggest reason why I went Tekno and don't miss the Losi at all.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 12:00 PM
  #21412  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Which motor did you run?

Does anyone use timing or boost with the 4-poles or just let the motor do the work?
I switched from a Revtech 4800kv motor to the new Trinity Zombie 4850. I don't race with any timing at all. I was testing out a HW 4700 once and dumped a bunch of timing in that thing. That was some big air.

I don't think it's necessary to use timing with a 4-pole if it's gear correctly. You might have to reduce the current or punch though for a lot of these motors to keep the heat and wheel spin in check.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 12:10 PM
  #21413  
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Also one thing that people dont mention is that when you tone down the punch control your diff oils last much longer the oil doesnt turn black much at all. And the big plus is your tires last much longer. Yea the 4 pole motors do need the punch control tamed i never used timing on these motors actually i know guys who tried it and ended up changing it to no timing,.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 12:27 PM
  #21414  
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I think timing on a 4 pole depends on the motor.
Tekins don't like timing, adds too much heat.
HW has a great powerband without timing but when you add timing at about 10k rpm the mid and top end become supercharged. Not that it needs it but if there's enough room to stretch your legs on the straight, it is an advantage. Without timing I temp at 125° and with 15° esc timing I temp at 145° max. Can't get it hotter even running 3 packs without stopping. 16t pinion.

The combo of your track, driving style and of course motor will determine timing or not. Run without and find a good pinion gear then add some timing and check temps every couple of minutes. Got too hot? Zero timing. Temps are OK and you picked up a little top end, congrats! If your pinion is a tooth too low you can make up for it by adding timing, again, temps allowing.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 01:08 PM
  #21415  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
I got the Hudy 4mm and it works great. The integy one is too dull to cut into the tekno arms.
I thought it was 4mm, and I plan on the Hudy as well. I believe in paying for quality once. Thanks for clarifying.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 03:54 PM
  #21416  
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I use the dynamite 4mm reamer and it works great. Need to get a 3mm one now for the outer pins for the hubs.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 04:07 PM
  #21417  
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on a whim I bought some turnigy reamers and were surprised how well they worked out.
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Old 04-15-2014 | 07:23 PM
  #21418  
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Originally Posted by nanoverse
Drill the side holes.
Put bladder in cap.
Fill and bleed shocks.
Put cap half on.
Push shaft in so far as you want rebound. Let oil escape out of side hole.
Screw cap all the way in.

Easy and consistent.
Check bladder from time to time by stretching a little. If running no limiters the rear shock nut hits the bladder.
Can I only do this with the plastic caps as the aluminum ones only have one hole in them?
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Old 04-15-2014 | 07:29 PM
  #21419  
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Originally Posted by Cain
on a whim I bought some turnigy reamers and were surprised how well they worked out.
Hows those BCE chassis coming?
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Old 04-15-2014 | 07:50 PM
  #21420  
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Went to the track and the spring change really fixed me through the rhythm section of my track I was able to get through it without problems unlike before with the grey/black combo.
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