What has been happening Dave?

I may need to try to rear toe at 4, though I can say running 7/5/5 and the softer front bar made the car really plant down nicely.

Any chance we can drag you back down to GA for the SOS series to run the ebuggy?

So my car is built and Im adjusting the steering turnbuckles so they center the wheels. So while Im adjusting them, I notice that the ball cups twist pretty bad when I turn the turnbuckle. Does serpent have an upgrade for their ballcups or is this whats 'supposed' to happen?

Quick question. Has anyone measured top speed with 1900-2050KV motor? With stock 16T pinion.

I have LRP Dynamic 8 2000KV motor and Xerun 150A esc and I can get 37mph max. It seems a bit slow for 2000KV and 16T pinion but im not sure. My ESC timing is 0 degrees (Using the motor in sensored mode)

I hold both ends of the turnbuckles with pliers so that they don't move when I adjust the toe. I make sure they are not twisted on the ball insert when I am done as well. As far as I know there are no upgrades for the steering rod ends. I feel like them twisting so badly while adjusting the toe weakens them. Not sure if it is true or not.. but I try to avoid them twisting regardless!

They fit tightly, whenever i build a kit i always grease the threads going into the links to make adjusting easier.

I use a red lithium based grease called slide glide, designed for use in competition firearms, it stays where you put it. Even Black axle grease would help this significantly as well.

What I like to do with the Turnbuckles is put the turnbuckle on a drill with slow speed and hold the rod end with pliers and ad a little grease to the threads. Work it all the way in and out a couple times, be sure not to go fast and melt the threads you just made. Makes for easy adjustment

Yeah they are solid. I add synthetic oil on threads then I work them in prior to installing. I also cut a few Millimeters off each side on the all ends all but the Steering setup.

Doing this prior prevents all the twisting once installed. I've also cut down a old turn buckle down before the Hex so I have only side with threads. Then I use a cordless drill with a socket that fit the hex part. Then I hold the plastic end with a adjustable wrench then I slow work them back a forth. Hope this helps. You can buy a turnbuckle bore bit believe Tamiya sells forget.

You can just buy a tap with the right thread pitch and use that.

I haven't been able to find a reverse tap with 1/10th scale size turnbuckles. What thread are the 1/8th turnbuckles? M4?

Threadtapping will make them too easy to turn and they will work their way out of adjustment. Best thing is to just lube them and install, then work back and forth a little to loosen them up.

Using a tap will cut/remove material, using the turnbuckle will only push it. Please do not use a tap on your turnbuckles. Like some have already said, use some form of lube. My way is to start a few threads by hand holding the turnbuckle with a wrench or pliers. Once I get a few turns and the buckle is on straight I grab a alien wrench. I put it in the eyelet of the buckle and start turning with no problems.

FYI they actually have non-cutting taps specially designed for plastic. I've never really had to do anything but put some grease one them and the SRX-2 ends didn't even need that.

Today was my best day at the track yet! I had been running some heavier oil in the shocks, 500cst front 400cst rear and stock pistons. Then when I was checking out some of the other buggys last week I realized I was probably dampening too much. Switched to 350cst front 300cst rear and it was like night and day. I thought I was dialed in before, but I immediately noticed a big improvement and shaved 1-2sec off my lap times.

Anyone have trouble keeping the grub screws tight on the F/R pinions? Had them back off on me twice now. Luckily the bearing keeps it captive and it doesn't totally let loose. Just get some play in the coupling but I can still finish out the day. I think maybe there is some oil/grease residue in the threads keeping the loctite from setting up. I crank them down as tight as I can without stripping it out. I'm going to get some new grub screws and clean the coupling with a good solvent and see if that fixes it.

My original body is on it's last legs so I ordered one of the E-avenger style to try. Can I expect any difference in handling or mostly cosmetic? Seems like almost everyone is running the cab-forward bodies at my track.

can any one tell me whats a size pinion to used on a 2100kv motor for the buggy on a large out door track

16 is about right for 1900, so start with a 15. 16 might be fine though, just watch motor temp. 15 might be needed to make run time 1n a 10 minute main.