Tekno SCT410 Thread
question;
what is the science on wheels, is a softer wheel better like proline f-11 or stiffer like DE racing borrego? softer seems like it might soak up some of the bumps, but the stiffer wheel seems like it may hold the line better and not flex under force, i do notice the de wheels seem to crack at times, while the softer wheels like my durangos would sometimes get a bit out of round, any thoughts on this subject?
what is the science on wheels, is a softer wheel better like proline f-11 or stiffer like DE racing borrego? softer seems like it might soak up some of the bumps, but the stiffer wheel seems like it may hold the line better and not flex under force, i do notice the de wheels seem to crack at times, while the softer wheels like my durangos would sometimes get a bit out of round, any thoughts on this subject?
I have had my ear to the ground since the mention last week or so of a new 2014 version of the BCE T1 race chassis for our beloved SCT410 and I have heard that the wheels are churning at the shop and I heard a lot of things about the option of having the battery forward position and some other things so I said why not and went ahead and asked and they are taking pre-orders with hopes of shipping within the next week and a half or so. With that being said I placed my order, I really like the OG T1 so I cant wait to get my hands on the new one, it really performs.
Side note I also heard a little rumor of Billy Fisher doing some things with BCE, so it sounds like they are getting ready to do some big things over there. Ill let you know when I get mine and how it works out.
Side note I also heard a little rumor of Billy Fisher doing some things with BCE, so it sounds like they are getting ready to do some big things over there. Ill let you know when I get mine and how it works out.
Thanks for the compliments. The credit belongs to a local racer who Tyler and I run with. He can replicate any paint scheme you can throw at him, for 1 flat rate. If you shoot me a PM i can give you his contact info.
He does my paint work as well and couldn't ask for a better guy. Great prices, great work, and very fast turn around time.
When I order directly from TeknoRC it usually takes three days for the parts to arrive at my door from CA to FL. Ordering directly from teknoRC also guarantees that you'll get A++ customer service plus the latest and greatest goodies.Did you order any optional parts?
[QUOTE=mkl;13000081]
show a pic of how it goes together for the integy setup station
That's is what I was thinking, I wanted to see if anyone has tried it. I orderd the integy set thinking that is what I needed ,but that is basically the same thing I had. all I needed was the adapter so I am going to send integy set back or sell it to my buddy and get the adapters needed and use my hudy.
I have them and they work well. A little finicky to assemble but not bad.
I have them and they work well. A little finicky to assemble but not bad.
looks like the new BCE chassis is ready for preorder from fierce rc solutions. Got two on order:
http://www.fiercercsolutions.com/NEW...?categoryId=-1
left the other five you guys to grab
http://www.fiercercsolutions.com/NEW...?categoryId=-1
left the other five you guys to grab
Have you guys had issues bleeding the shocks with the plastic caps Emoulsion style i have plently of oil in them and the holes in the cap look like there cleared but no oil coming out ? Im using the Xray pistons if that matters.
I tried to put the cap screw in and went up and down on the shaft and it seems fine smooth and has a little rebound.
I tried to put the cap screw in and went up and down on the shaft and it seems fine smooth and has a little rebound.
Gotta fill it till there's a crown of oil or fill flush and put a few drops in the cap before you screw it on.
Oil should come out of the large bleed hole once the shaft is pushed all the way in.
If you want to run some rebound, you should still see oil come out with the shaft a mm or two out but at least a drop should push out before you run the screw in rebound or no rebound in the build.
The holes are drilled out right?
Oil should come out of the large bleed hole once the shaft is pushed all the way in.
If you want to run some rebound, you should still see oil come out with the shaft a mm or two out but at least a drop should push out before you run the screw in rebound or no rebound in the build.
The holes are drilled out right?
Last edited by fq06; 02-12-2014 at 08:53 PM.
Gotta fill it till there's a crown of oil or fill flush and put a few drops in the cap before you screw it on.
Oil should come out of the large bleed hole once the shaft is pushed all the way in.
If you want to run some rebound, you should still see oil come out with the shaft a mm or two out but at least a drop should push out before you run the screw in rebound or no rebound in the build.
The holes are drilled out right?
Oil should come out of the large bleed hole once the shaft is pushed all the way in.
If you want to run some rebound, you should still see oil come out with the shaft a mm or two out but at least a drop should push out before you run the screw in rebound or no rebound in the build.
The holes are drilled out right?
Yea although i did have to cut some burrs out inside the caps. I bought the truck used.
Did 1.3 piston on the Rear with 30w and the Pink spring defietly feels like more pack but could use a spring rate up from Pink. Remember i live in the Northeast the tracks are not smooth if its outside dirt .
The shock positions on the Rear are the 2nd hole on the from the outside first hole which looking at it its the stock setup and the middle hole on the arms.



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