Thank you, the 2cc less than 125cc is perfect to allow for possible discrepancies in measuring by tech.

The bleed hole should seal as you tighten the cap. I build shocks a little differently than the manual.

Take all your bladders out and clean them, along with the shock caps. Then place the bladders inside the caps.

Fill the shock to a couple of mm from the top.

Set your rebound. Personally, I set for 50%.

Start the cap screwing onto the body, then hold the assembly at about a 45 degree angle with the bleeder hole facing up.

Keep the cap in that position and slowly finish screwing the body into the cap. You should see bubbles but as it gets tight there should only be oil coming from the hole.

Snug the cap on good, but don't overdo it. If you over-tighten it can damage the bladder.

Team Associated Factory Team Starter Box fits perfectly, stock number ASC1750

Further to above, does anyone have recommendations on droop/downstop for quite loose low bite tracks?

Rear engine position --- will it help to improve rear traction for low traction tracks?

WTF! Brand new tank broke rear mount tab during warm up yesterday.

That sucks. Did you have both orings installed. When a tab breaks it could be from the chassis flexing.

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It must have been to tight

Even with the o rings in stalled you need to not tighten the screws down the tank needs to be loose and have movement up and down I have found

I have removed the o rings and run 10mm of fuel tube and then longer screws so the tank can flex on the fuel tube

Good news is though the fuel tanks are in stock at Tekno though.

That's more about driver than motor.

Orings installed. Didn't feel overtight. I made sure there was a little wiggle. This is my second tank. First one, the clunk kept falling off, and then it cracked. The new one broke with one tank through it... Just a little frustrated.

Yeh I can understand that I run mine real loose now with longer screws

I can assure you though Tekno is working on it they pride them selfs to be the best.

Boss Ross, here are a few things to check.

As others have stated makes sure the screws are tight enough to just press the tank to the O-rings. It should be able to wiggle a little. The O-rings should not be compressed to the point they bulge. Be sure to use the m3 washer between the tank and screw head.

Check the drip tube from the tank and trim the tube so it ends just before going into the mud guard. You do not want the drip tube going into the mud guard. This can cause the tank to break when flexing.

Check clearance around the tank. It should not touch anything (i.e. the front chassis brace, drive line, pipe) and should be free to vibrate and slightly move. There should be about 5mm of clearance between the pipe and tank. You might need to reposition the pipe, tank or fuel line if it is too close. Make sure the pipe is pushed as far down and to the left of the car as possible. The mud guard should be touching the pipe on the bottom and left sides. I test this by flexing the mud guard up and the pipe should move too.

Make sure the pipe hanger is not touching the tank on the bottom side. The hanger should not protrude through the right side of the hanger block. Also make sure the hanger block is extremely tight. Be sure to use Loctite on both the m5 set screw and the m4 flat head screw in the hanger block.

Wanted to share The Ohio RC Factory promo video me and my friend Mike Harmon did. This is the electric version. Nitro version coming soon enjoy!!
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=y...e_gdata_player

Thanks for the tips. Fresh tank in transit. I'm going to mount it on a bed of marshmallow foam... . BTW - Major kudos to TeknoRC for taking pity on this amateur.