I think it would be plenty its very light and nimble for a truggy I'm running a t8 2250 truggy motor turned down to 35% and its still too fast

I posted that a week ago lol

I am running a 1900 with a rx8 gen 2 with current limted down too 30 works great just right speed

This confuses me unless you're also on a really loose track.
My eb48 has a 1900 w 18t and I run no current limit...and have actually had times where I wished for more power in one of its last outings (which was fairly loose traction). A truggy should be able to put down more, even if it doesn't weigh much more, due to contact patch. I'm not saying the 1900 isn't a good choice, Danny the owner of Tekno has won with the et that way, but to have it that limited in a truggy doesn't make sense to me.

Am I missing something?

as I say each have there own setup I don't run in the us I run in aussie mate each track is different and I fine this setup work well for me

Other then traction running better batteries will be a significant difference.

if I run my setup I can get longer run times with my raceing I can match it with the nitros

I run a Gen2 T8 2000 and Gen2 Rx8 with a 15 tooth pinion and it has plenty if not too much power. Temps are hot enough now that when it's summer time they will be well over 200. You can't run anything smaller than a 15.

I have the same esc and motor ( I'm building the truggy this week-end). If you can't go lower than 15 tooth, we will need a fan on the motor this summer?

I'm running the same motor but I'm using a 14t pinion. Take a rotary tool and sand the center dif brace about 1 to 2mm. I don't know for sure it might be possible to get 13 on their but that might involve machining the motor mount.

Well I took 2 videos last night of my truggy running however there was only 3 truggys last night so it was kind of a test and tune/ goof off night so I'm still undecided if I wanna post them as the do show what the truggy can do on a tight indoor track but it wasn't really anywhere near 100% effort

Ok I have never really paid attention to droop setting. I understand them but the question I have is where do you measure from? The manual said 120mm but from where to where?

That measurement is usually shock length (from center of fastener to center of fastenere). But to match this you need to have the shock in the same position on arm and tower.

Better way is to have it on set up blocks with wheels off and measure distance under hubs to ground. You can find the max droop this way and adjust for different shock mount positions on arm so shocks never fully extend when in the air. You want the droop screw to limit travel before shock is at max extension. Otherwise you will destroy shocks pretty quick.

If you don't like the Tekno way of adjusting droop from the bottom, get some of these.

Ball bearing droop screws

A little pricey, but so is a $600 truggy!
They work great, I have them in everything. No more chassis gouging or unreliable droop settings.

I like to measure from the shock eye inlet.

thanks but I'm not doing that anytime soon.