Just built my Sc10 4x4 FT Kit. Have a question about the diffs. In the instruction manual it illustrates a shim be placed on the outdrive side of the diff case. There was also a print out included in the plastic bag containing the diff parts. The print out does not show use of this shim. When I assembled the diff there was not enough room for the shim. It caused the outdrive to bind up against the case and wouldnt spin free. I assembled the diffs without the shims and it seems to fit perfect.

Did I do this wrong? Should I go back after a track day or two and see if I can fit the shim? Or is it not needed?

You did it right, the new shim inside the diff is thicker so there is not enough room for the shim outside the diff. The small one outside the diff is not used.

Thanks, was just going to post that. I called AE support to confirm.

+1 . The new thicker shims that go internally eliminate the clicking issue that people experienced due to mesh.

Is that the noise I hear when I'm marshalling? Or is it not that loud? Have heard some strange noises from SC10's.

Yeah, braking and usually coming out of a turn hard working the diff.

Losi's will do the same thing for different reasons but I hear those things crunching diff gears on the track often.

when that noise happens, if you look up to the drivers stand and see someone looking confused or not happy, could be the diff let go internally if its an sc10 4x4 and doesn't have that shim mod.

Once modded though, haven't heard of an issue.

SC10 4x4 gurus, I have a question on diff fluid. I have a race this weekend and the track is indoor hard packed dirt and clay mix with lots of traction, and no real straits, lots of turns and hard corners. I was thinking of going down on the diff fluid, using 5K AE in the front and 3K AE in the back would this be to my advantage or just leave it right now I have 10K up front and 7K in the back. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

True... can't say as much for the Losi though

Disclaimer: Not a guru
If you don't have the exotek front locker or Rc Shox C-Diff 10k in front is about right. Maybe mix some 10k & 7k. 5k in the rear, probably don't want to go too much below that on high traction or the diff may start to unload on you giving you hassles accelerating onto the straight.

for me personally, I never changed the rear from 5K. I felt it worked great on conditions I ran on from outdoor loose track to indoor high tractino carpet.

for the front, 7K I stuck with as I ran the RC Shox Center Diff. if you are running something other than that though, if you feel you are going up in traction, then you may want to gto with slightly heaiver diff fluid.

Will 1/8 size esc fit on the right side of the chassis under the belt? If not, is it best to run a stick pack with ESC on the left? I would think the left to right balance would be way off with motor and esc on the left.

From what I have seen, you can run the Tekin RX8 under the tunnel but need to mod it by removing the fan I believe. The ESC however is so robust you don't need the fan from what i have heard.

Not sure on the Viper VTX8.

Me personally, if you are not wanting to mod the ESC you could just mount it on the side where the receiver goes, and put the receiver on the other side and balance from there.

I remember someone also notching the belt cover to fit the RX8 under it without having to hack up the ESC if memory serves correct.

I run an IX8 under it. Square packed slammed against front. I'll try and get a pick up. I use a TC fan on it.
2500 Mah Rx pack to make it work right though. Without the Rx pack I had lots of problems... studdering under load and black outs.

So the IX8 suffers on 2s? I was thinking of getting that one instead of an rx8 but maybe not.