Team Associated B4.2 Thread
If you are looking at the chart I put together and petitrc has uploaded, it shows the low speed (static) damping and high speed damping (pack) for different piston oil combos. It helps save some time if you want to say increase pack (for better jump landing) without changing static damping (keep handling similar). Just look for your current setup, trace up to another piston and look which oil gives a similar damping rate. Its based on uni lab measurements of oil flow through real length orifices and generally ive found it accurate to within 2.5wt when vhanging pistons. Its described a bit more in the help thread linked in my sig.
By across the pond you mean the 'other' pond to Australia
Ive found 1.7s to be best to generate traction (37.5 frt / 32.5 rr, grn front and wht rr springs) but does bottom out more on big jumps and if the traction and temp go up ut can feel a bit soft. 3hx1.4 flat seem a good halfway point, 1.6 flat best if its smooth. But most of our tracks are bumpy, and the 1.6 pistons dont ride the bumps well.
Ray
By across the pond you mean the 'other' pond to Australia

Ive found 1.7s to be best to generate traction (37.5 frt / 32.5 rr, grn front and wht rr springs) but does bottom out more on big jumps and if the traction and temp go up ut can feel a bit soft. 3hx1.4 flat seem a good halfway point, 1.6 flat best if its smooth. But most of our tracks are bumpy, and the 1.6 pistons dont ride the bumps well.
Ray
you might want to adjust ride height higher, i run at a fairly "blown out" track for buggies and with the stock set up it was pretty dam good, i ran 27mm front and 28mm rear with stock droop, and stock shock package-springs of course
I like them cause you feel the pact of the actual weight but it rebounds like its a lighter weight. For example, I was running 32.5/30 with flat 2x1.6 pistons, now im running 37.5/35 with tapered 2x1.6 pistons and they feel the same over bumps but my car lands ALOT smoother and doesnt chassis slap as much. Plus the added weight keeps the car from chassis rolling so much in the corners, which is nice.
Hideeho
My local track has always been VERY BUMPY & medium to low traction. The new layout we just finished is SMOOTH & they are talking about various addatives to increase traction (sugar, grapico, etc...). I run a very light setup (t4 chassis, shorty, in-line electronics but in tray & only ft balast for added weight). I expect my light weight setup will be even better on this style track, but I want to make sure I'm thinking right on what setup changes I will need to make.
I'm expecting I will need:
stiffer springs
smaller hole pistons &/or thicker oil
tighter dif
maybe a shelf for the ESC
maybe a rear swaybar
My local track has always been VERY BUMPY & medium to low traction. The new layout we just finished is SMOOTH & they are talking about various addatives to increase traction (sugar, grapico, etc...). I run a very light setup (t4 chassis, shorty, in-line electronics but in tray & only ft balast for added weight). I expect my light weight setup will be even better on this style track, but I want to make sure I'm thinking right on what setup changes I will need to make.
I'm expecting I will need:
stiffer springs
smaller hole pistons &/or thicker oil
tighter dif
maybe a shelf for the ESC
maybe a rear swaybar
I feel bad for you if they add sugar, its great traction but man does the money cost sky rocket...I hated it when they did it to my track, it got so expensive that I stopped going for awhile. Tires were literally lasting ONE run, two if you were lucky. and it got really unfair for the guys with tires sponsors cause they had a fresh set every run while everyone else had worn down tires. Luckily, he added more clay and stopped sugaring.
I feel bad for you if they add sugar, its great traction but man does the money cost sky rocket...I hated it when they did it to my track, it got so expensive that I stopped going for awhile. Tires were literally lasting ONE run, two if you were lucky. and it got really unfair for the guys with tires sponsors cause they had a fresh set every run while everyone else had worn down tires. Luckily, he added more clay and stopped sugaring.
Why would you not run slicks? On rare occasions on previous layouts (hot day, track watered all week, lots of vehicles running, & corners swept between runs) we have had a high traction black groove & slicks worked very well (yes, even on 2wd) then. What would be the drawback of running slicks when traction is super high. What is the advantage of knobs when traction is high?
Hideeho
Why would you not run slicks? On rare occasions on previous layouts (hot day, track watered all week, lots of vehicles running, & corners swept between runs) we have had a high traction black groove & slicks worked very well (yes, even on 2wd) then. What would be the drawback of running slicks when traction is super high. What is the advantage of knobs when traction is high?
Why would you not run slicks? On rare occasions on previous layouts (hot day, track watered all week, lots of vehicles running, & corners swept between runs) we have had a high traction black groove & slicks worked very well (yes, even on 2wd) then. What would be the drawback of running slicks when traction is super high. What is the advantage of knobs when traction is high?
on my track, there was a loose layer of dirt on top and if you got out of the groove, you would spin out INSTANTLY. Thats why guys that had fresh tires had the advantage, they could recover better and faster. and if you run the same tires on a sugared track, they will last a week max before they are unusable.
I get to race on sugar this weekend....yippy. I am told I will need to run X2,MX or JC orange suburb style tires. It will be outdoors at SRS and I am told slicks wont work. I am hoping a set of tires will last 3 quals and a main in 17.5. /pray
better bring two fresh sets of rear tires just in case lol have you ever been up to warehouse 3? im racing there friday and ive never been there.



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. HOLY CRAP THAT DOES SUCK!
