4LikesTeam Associated B4.2 Thread
11-20-2013 | 11:34 AM
Well I take extra great care of my whips and my 410 NEVER develops excess slop but my B4.2 and T4.1 do and everyone else's Associated cars are the same, so you either got lucky or you have not had a more precise vehicle to compare it to. On top of that I'm sure by now you guys are aware of what some of AE Team drivers say in regards tot he slop and looseness of their vehicles, but in case you haven't, whenever someone makes mention of all the slop their reply is Loose is fast. So no offense but, I highly doubt your car is as "tight" as you claim it to be.
TLR Ball Cups did remedy most of the slop in my 4.2's steering and camber but my arms do indeed have a little bit of play at the hinge pins. The slop the 22 develops is due to the putrid Sliderack system that is utter junk, but the rest of the car remains tight until you break something.
AE should look into Static mounting the pins on the arms and go to pivot balls like a few others have done. That's the only way the play will be eradicated once and for all. LOL
TLR Ball Cups did remedy most of the slop in my 4.2's steering and camber but my arms do indeed have a little bit of play at the hinge pins. The slop the 22 develops is due to the putrid Sliderack system that is utter junk, but the rest of the car remains tight until you break something.
AE should look into Static mounting the pins on the arms and go to pivot balls like a few others have done. That's the only way the play will be eradicated once and for all. LOL
Carbon front arms.
Carbon Steering Rack (Only tested the JC, and it definitely helps.)
4-40 button head screws into the front pivot with the carbon hinge pin brace. (JC Hingepin brace was designed for 4-40 screws and makes for a cleaner install)
Aluminum front pivot (has two set screws holding each hinge pin) - Will have to drill and tap if you wish to use 4-40 screws with it
Carbon caster blocks, and shimmed with motor shims or shaved to run 1mm shim.
Two 1mm shims per rear hub instead of one metric and one standard shim
Drill/Tap rear hubs to use set screws
In other words, throw away the crappy plastic that comes with the kit and get all the carbon bits you usually see on the setup sheets.
11-20-2013 | 11:52 AM
I LoL'd pretty hard at this one thanks 
11-20-2013 | 12:38 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 464
From: Central California
A few suggestions to mitigate the slop:
Carbon front arms.
Carbon Steering Rack (Only tested the JC, and it definitely helps.)
4-40 button head screws into the front pivot with the carbon hinge pin brace. (JC Hingepin brace was designed for 4-40 screws and makes for a cleaner install)
Aluminum front pivot (has two set screws holding each hinge pin) - Will have to drill and tap if you wish to use 4-40 screws with it
Carbon caster blocks, and shimmed with motor shims or shaved to run 1mm shim.
Two 1mm shims per rear hub instead of one metric and one standard shim
Drill/Tap rear hubs to use set screws
In other words, throw away the crappy plastic that comes with the kit and get all the carbon bits you usually see on the setup sheets.
Carbon front arms.
Carbon Steering Rack (Only tested the JC, and it definitely helps.)
4-40 button head screws into the front pivot with the carbon hinge pin brace. (JC Hingepin brace was designed for 4-40 screws and makes for a cleaner install)
Aluminum front pivot (has two set screws holding each hinge pin) - Will have to drill and tap if you wish to use 4-40 screws with it
Carbon caster blocks, and shimmed with motor shims or shaved to run 1mm shim.
Two 1mm shims per rear hub instead of one metric and one standard shim
Drill/Tap rear hubs to use set screws
In other words, throw away the crappy plastic that comes with the kit and get all the carbon bits you usually see on the setup sheets.
Once I had the front end of my B4.2 finished I noticed a lot of slop.........and this was before I ever ran the car. I tried shimming and it worked, but I hated the thought of resorting to shims to fix something that should have been tight to begin with. So I ordered a set of carbon front arms and carbon caster blocks. The caster blocks took some work (VERY tight fit) but were worth it in the end. The slop in the front end was drastically reduced to a level I could accept. The advice offered by DanielC. is sound and worked for me, and I am using the stock aluminum bellcrank.
11-20-2013 | 01:45 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 647
So the 2 grub screw mod for the rear hub will elminate the rear hub slop? I am having a hufe issue with that atm also I found that the ball cups were 90 percent of my slop it was tight when I got it ran it a few times over summer super loose replqced with dybro ends boom TIGHT
11-20-2013 | 02:07 PM
So the 2 grub screw mod for the rear hub will elminate the rear hub slop? I am having a hufe issue with that atm also I found that the ball cups were 90 percent of my slop it was tight when I got it ran it a few times over summer super loose replqced with dybro ends boom TIGHT
I also noticed that the AE ball studs tend to wear out pretty easily, and the TiNi coated studs are smaller than the stock ones. The JC ball studs that came out recently seem to fit MUCH tighter.
11-20-2013 | 02:08 PM
Well as someone who actually owned a 22 for some time I can say that is utter nonsense. Unless you are smacking into everything with considerable force thus placing components under unbelievable stresses, thereby destroying the trueness of parts. The 22 is considerably tighter than the 4.2 and remains such unless damage is inflicted. and just to prove how far off base your commentary is, to illustrate how long I've been an Associated fanboy… I see your fanboyism and raise you this: 
On top of that I also had all the Aluminum upgrades on my 22 which ensured the only place it could develop play was in the arms themselves which was as minimal as it gets. Any tighter and the suspension would have suffered from binding. Also keep in mind that I did point out an area where the 22 is majorly flawed, thus furthering the assumptions nature of your post.
On top of that I also had all the Aluminum upgrades on my 22 which ensured the only place it could develop play was in the arms themselves which was as minimal as it gets. Any tighter and the suspension would have suffered from binding. Also keep in mind that I did point out an area where the 22 is majorly flawed, thus furthering the assumptions nature of your post.
11-20-2013 | 02:27 PM
They all get slopped out. I've had em all except Durango. Each one slops out at their own rate. B4 is just the fastest to become sloppy.
P.s. I'm gonna ask my wife if she will make sloppy joes for us tonight.
P.s. I'm gonna ask my wife if she will make sloppy joes for us tonight.
11-20-2013 | 02:28 PM
A few suggestions to mitigate the slop:
Carbon front arms.
Carbon Steering Rack (Only tested the JC, and it definitely helps.)
4-40 button head screws into the front pivot with the carbon hinge pin brace. (JC Hingepin brace was designed for 4-40 screws and makes for a cleaner install)
Aluminum front pivot (has two set screws holding each hinge pin) - Will have to drill and tap if you wish to use 4-40 screws with it
Carbon caster blocks, and shimmed with motor shims or shaved to run 1mm shim.
Two 1mm shims per rear hub instead of one metric and one standard shim
Drill/Tap rear hubs to use set screws
In other words, throw away the crappy plastic that comes with the kit and get all the carbon bits you usually see on the setup sheets.
Carbon front arms.
Carbon Steering Rack (Only tested the JC, and it definitely helps.)
4-40 button head screws into the front pivot with the carbon hinge pin brace. (JC Hingepin brace was designed for 4-40 screws and makes for a cleaner install)
Aluminum front pivot (has two set screws holding each hinge pin) - Will have to drill and tap if you wish to use 4-40 screws with it
Carbon caster blocks, and shimmed with motor shims or shaved to run 1mm shim.
Two 1mm shims per rear hub instead of one metric and one standard shim
Drill/Tap rear hubs to use set screws
In other words, throw away the crappy plastic that comes with the kit and get all the carbon bits you usually see on the setup sheets.
11-20-2013 | 02:30 PM
Well that Andy's kit right there has no slop and it's a relic. My 410 is crisp in all areas and it's got some miles on it.
11-20-2013 | 03:09 PM
Well, i guess it comes down to the definition of slop. When my 22 rear arms were new, they were free and tight. no front to back play. Now they move front to back. I call this slop. For me the rack and rear arms slop out the fastest. But, its nothing like the rear hubs on the b4.2, lol. That was just ridiculous. I agree the b4 has more slop than the 22, but the 22 has slop by my personal definition.
11-20-2013 | 03:10 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 647
Gl mines still on back order... umless it came in tonight
11-20-2013 | 03:28 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,334
From: Savannah, Ga
mmmm sloppy joes....well besides the whole I dont eat red meat thing lol
11-20-2013 | 03:37 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 647
ya we talked about this a couple pages ago but get a pair of cutters an cut the nub off of your wing and use ur choice or screw, and according drill bit slight small so it threads in, id suggest a button head, with a bit washer so it doesnt rip out, also for the grub screw on the bearing i dont know about that could tighten it too much and cause a bend in the bearing, and cause it to break, or lock up