We had a guy go out to Cali can't remember which track, he said it was a new layout and the locals were complaining about how loose and low the bite was, while he was thinking that was the most traction he has every drive on. Lol

yeah, its very relative. This is why copying setups can be problematic. That is why I tell people to just start with the kit and start making changes and find what is right for you.

Talk to Robbie. He has been running it pretty much exclusively since worlds. I just ordered a kit to play with but will also have a rear motor bug.

Can not believe I didn't think of that lol

When you get tried of looking for lost thumb screws out on the track ?

Try the screws as they are way cheep ...

I know where I wanted to stick that bent hinge pin...

Quick question about ae shocks. when talking about adding or removing a limiter, does that mean the black washers under the piston and e-clip?

Thanks

I didnt see where anyone answered this, can someone please shed some light on this as im wondering the same thing

cvd's = more bind and more forward bite
cva's = less bind better rotation in corners.

Yes... The AE internal limiters are the .030 (clear or black) plastic washers/shims used in kits to limit shock travel. For internal shock use (limiting down-travel and droop), they slide over the shock shaft, just under the bottom c-clip & piston. Push the shaft through the shock, thread the shock eyelet on, fill shock up & bleed it. The limiters are used to "limit" droop/travel, which is helpful in the chassis handling. Smooth/high grip you'd use more limiters to lessen travel/droop & chassis roll. Lower traction, rough & bumpy tracks use less limiters to gain travel/droop & allow the buggies suspension to absorb more. Don't know if that explanation was overboard or not, but it should explain

Wow! great explanation DesertRacer! The included information about handling and tuning was a wonderful surprise as it covered my follow up question.

Thanks again!

Hey guys I am running shorty pack for the first time in my b4.2 an I got my receiver in the Lipo tray and the ESC on a shelf.
Shock are set up like the book set up but I put the tapered 1.6 in with 32.5 front and 32.5 rear . My question is going in to a sweeping turn the rear washes out?? Every else the buggy is fine!!!!
The track is a in door, cold, clay wet. Tire front and rear is a green barcode and a m4 suburbs.

I just pulled my b4 out of retirement and want to know if it can be upgraded to the B4.2. My primary concern is: if I break something, can I still get parts?

If no, then I have to reconsider its retirement and replacing the car. Would it be more cost effective to simply buy a B4.2 or could I gradually upgrade as I need to? I saw the laundry list of upgrades on page 1 but that doesn't answer the questions that I am posing to you folks here.

I have reviewed the manual for the B4.2 and compared it to my buggy. Parts that look identical have different part numbers. Why?

Any information will be appreciated. Thanks!

not worth the price of upgrading, sell your old b4 to someone at the track, and buy a new b4.2 lol

big bore shocks, alu steering rack, multi pad slipper, longer chassis, longer battery strap, alu hex, alu rear hubs.