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Old 11-01-2013 | 06:28 AM
  #10936  
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Generally, it doesn't matter how thick the Lexan is so long as you cut deep enough to allow you to snap it clean, BUT the Vortex Lexan is really thick and it's angles make it a bit challenging. Jus have to go over the cuts a few times.
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Old 11-01-2013 | 07:33 AM
  #10937  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
for saying something similar to this?





Bubonic go back under your bridge
Coming out from under the bridge.To ask..... Riddle me this: Why is there an anntenna on a Rx in the first place then?
Seems like you still believe you can do it. You got me convinced.
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Old 11-01-2013 | 10:46 AM
  #10938  
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I had to rebuild my shocks last night after losing the oil out of one (broken E clip below the piston) I put in 1.6 pistons all around, green/white springs and 32.5/27.5 oils....good starting point? Thinking about switching to 1.3 pistons front and 30wt rear oil depending on how it drives tonight
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Old 11-01-2013 | 11:58 AM
  #10939  
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Originally Posted by fivepointnine
I had to rebuild my shocks last night after losing the oil out of one (broken E clip below the piston) I put in 1.6 pistons all around, green/white springs and 32.5/27.5 oils....good starting point? Thinking about switching to 1.3 pistons front and 30wt rear oil depending on how it drives tonight
1.6's with 32.5fr and 30rr with green fr and white springs rr should be pretty close if not perfect for our tracks.
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Old 11-01-2013 | 12:57 PM
  #10940  
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Originally Posted by fivepointnine
I had to rebuild my shocks last night after losing the oil out of one (broken E clip below the piston) I put in 1.6 pistons all around, green/white springs and 32.5/27.5 oils....good starting point? Thinking about switching to 1.3 pistons front and 30wt rear oil depending on how it drives tonight
Going from 1.6 to 1.3 pistons in the front would be a very dramatic change.
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Old 11-01-2013 | 01:18 PM
  #10941  
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Originally Posted by DKSPLIT96
1.6's with 32.5fr and 30rr with green fr and white springs rr should be pretty close if not perfect for our tracks.
Thanks, Ill swap to 30wt in the rear
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Old 11-01-2013 | 01:26 PM
  #10942  
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543
Avid top shaft weight 4.0g vs. 10.7g stock that = 6.7 g rotating weight savings.
measure your spur gear weights, mass of the shaft isn't going to do anywhere near as much as weight off the spur.

Last edited by asc6000; 11-01-2013 at 03:33 PM. Reason: corrected a word, added
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Old 11-01-2013 | 07:51 PM
  #10943  
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Is there any particular servo arm I should use on my new B4.2? I assume that I should use an aluminum servo arm? Is there a particular brand or style that works better than others?

Thanks!
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Old 11-01-2013 | 07:54 PM
  #10944  
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
Is there any particular servo arm I should use on my new B4.2? I assume that I should use an aluminum servo arm? Is there a particular brand or style that works better than others?

Thanks!
Try the one in the kit, works the best.
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Old 11-01-2013 | 07:59 PM
  #10945  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
Try the one in the kit, works the best.
I will do that! Thanks for your input!
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Old 11-01-2013 | 08:00 PM
  #10946  
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I have another question. Has anyone tried the RPM front bulkhead and A-arm set? Just wondering if it would be worthy upgrade.
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Old 11-01-2013 | 09:25 PM
  #10947  
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
I have another question. Has anyone tried the RPM front bulkhead and A-arm set? Just wondering if it would be worthy upgrade.
I've been using it for about a month now, and so far it seems like it is bullet proof. Plus much tighter tolerances than the AE arms.
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Old 11-01-2013 | 09:49 PM
  #10948  
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Originally Posted by 071crazy
Going from 1.6 to 1.3 pistons in the front would be a very dramatic change.
ya that would give you less rolling in the front, and less steering, also slowing it down and having a more damping effect, however if you go 1.3 make sure you adjust your oil accordingly

I talked to my sponsored buddy, who switched from the vhs or the now stock slipper for the factory team kit, to the avid slipper, and he said he saved aprox 8g now the mip puck system i heard is suppose to be pretty durable and also about 1/3 the weight of the stock system, so between all 3 of those its a huge dramatic change thats like 45g total of rotating mass he also mentioned he thought that 1g of rotating mass= 5g of stationary mass which is really a bit change i dont think that scales accurately at some point but i bet if you will have a lot cooler motor temps, and a lighter buggy
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Old 11-01-2013 | 09:53 PM
  #10949  
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Originally Posted by 1mrdad
I've been using it for about a month now, and so far it seems like it is bullet proof. Plus much tighter tolerances than the AE arms.
Any issues with the Factory Team blue aluminum hinge pin brace fitting properly?
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Old 11-01-2013 | 10:18 PM
  #10950  
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
Is there any particular servo arm I should use on my new B4.2? I assume that I should use an aluminum servo arm? Is there a particular brand or style that works better than others?

Thanks!
Buy the losi arm for whatever brand servo you have. Probably a 23T or 25T servo arm.
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