Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated B4.2 Thread >

Team Associated B4.2 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree4Likes

Team Associated B4.2 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-09-2013, 10:34 AM
  #11686  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
 
Pittsdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by khartlauer
its not one part of the track that kicking my ass so it wont hurt to tune the car differently in general. it pushes everywhere on power, its just the worst through the sweeper at the end of the straight. so should I try green or white in your opinion? Im also gonna drop the weight of the shock fluid in the rear a little too since its so cold.
I would run black up front, try white in the rear. 30wt up front, 27.5 in the rear has been working so far for me, but you could try 25 in the rear.
Pittsdriver is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 12:03 PM
  #11687  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 635
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Your username has Las Vegas under it so I'm assuming you run at 702, my track is similar in a warehouse cold $h!@!!!! Last night we went to practice and it was 39 degrees at 6pm(closing time) haha don't act like you didn't just sing the song. Anyways, I just rebuilt my shocks, 30 all the way around, used me sons left over pistons from his. 22, 55 4 hole up front with AE blacks, 54 4 hole with greens in the back. Ride height at 24 all around, felt like summer time and lands a bit more plush than before as well. Reminds me of how bypass shocks work, lands smooth then works it's way back up to ride height.
CaseyD is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 01:50 PM
  #11688  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
 
weyant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Somerset
Posts: 449
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by khartlauer
oh okay, someone told me the opposite of that at the track. I have mine at stock right now, whatever that is. I believe its the second most innermost hole.
Ive been reading all these posts and one thing I didn't hear was about Anti-squat witch I have used to fix push and spin out problems. I like zero for the most part. ive had push prob that I fixed with rear tires with less grib I know that sounds weird but not NO grip just less. maybe like a holeshot.
weyant is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 02:04 PM
  #11689  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
khartlauer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 287
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by weyant
Ive been reading all these posts and one thing I didn't hear was about Anti-squat witch I have used to fix push and spin out problems. I like zero for the most part. ive had push prob that I fixed with rear tires with less grib I know that sounds weird but not NO grip just less. maybe like a holeshot.
Damn, never even thought of that (antisquat) im gonna take mine out and try it cause that sounds like it will help with alot. and im gonna run square fuzzies, which have a little more traction than the holeshots
khartlauer is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:06 PM
  #11690  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: AZ
Posts: 469
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by khartlauer
Damn, never even thought of that (antisquat) im gonna take mine out and try it cause that sounds like it will help with alot. and im gonna run square fuzzies, which have a little more traction than the holeshots
if your track has big jumps no anti-squat will hinder jumping characteristics. just a thought for you.
derbrylac is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:09 PM
  #11691  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 203
Default

So I'm 500+ pages into this thread, now on tapered pistons. .. anybody tried filing off top edge of 1.6 or 1.7 to make a "home made" tapered piston?
nordfink is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:21 PM
  #11692  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: AZ
Posts: 469
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nordfink
So I'm 500+ pages into this thread, now on tapered pistons. .. anybody tried filing off top edge of 1.6 or 1.7 to make a "home made" tapered piston?
I know some have before the taper pistons came out and worked but it had to be even throughout, and even though it worked it still had some oil blow by and would be inconsistent at times. the machined tapered are way better in comparison but if your budget minded go for it.
derbrylac is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:26 PM
  #11693  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 203
Default

How much difference really can there be? I know that the machined tolerances would be "exact" but we're taking about toy cars... That big of a difference? Any with experience? Have a set of 1.7 sitting in front of me begging to be rounded off...lol
nordfink is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:39 PM
  #11694  
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
 
DanielC.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: FL
Posts: 1,656
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nordfink
How much difference really can there be? I know that the machined tolerances would be "exact" but we're taking about toy cars... That big of a difference? Any with experience? Have a set of 1.7 sitting in front of me begging to be rounded off...lol
You'd be surprised, something that seems trivial like a machined piston vs. the stock AE pistons make a big difference on the track. Wouldn't recommend taking more material off the already undersized stock pistons.

That said, it sounds like you're just getting started out. I would worry about getting a decent sensored esc/motor for your buggy before messing with aftermarket pistons. You will definitely see a difference coming from your rtr electronics.
DanielC. is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:40 PM
  #11695  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 203
Default

Good to know. .. Thanks!
nordfink is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 04:56 PM
  #11696  
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
 
lodhammerdin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Northern Mexico (aka, El Paso, TX)
Posts: 1,194
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by derbrylac
if your track has big jumps no anti-squat will hinder jumping characteristics. just a thought for you.
Can you please elaborate on this. Ive been contemplating taking my anti squat out. I race outdoor on a fairly large track with medium to low grip and a couple large jumps. What should I expect to gain by taking my anti squat out?
lodhammerdin is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 04:56 PM
  #11697  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 203
Default

No rtr here, but thanks for the "dig"... purely a question, haven't heard too many "noobs" inquire about rounding a piston. And I've got a descent 8.5 and esc but thanks again for your comments...

And after reading this thread, would expect a little more of an answer per say than your "rtr" comment, after all the on topic garble in here. Some good info to be had if you've got the time to cipher all the replies like yours. Thanks again...
nordfink is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 04:57 PM
  #11698  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
SuperRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 555
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Have an issue with my new b4.2 build. My steering spindle arms are touching the front A arms when I turn the wheels and the suspension is full extended. Has anyone else had this problem?
To make it worse, I have installed lunsford steering ball stud and they have a slightly longer thread than the original ball studs. The thread is protruding from the bottom of the steering spindle arm and also touching/scratching the front A arms (when the suspension is fully extended).
I have not yet installed the servo so I'm not sure if the servo will displace the steering that much, however I did not have this issue on the b4.1 as the steering block arms seem more elevated. Any help/suggestions?
SuperRC is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 05:08 PM
  #11699  
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
 
DanielC.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: FL
Posts: 1,656
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nordfink
No rtr here, but thanks for the "dig"... purely a question, haven't heard too many "noobs" inquire about rounding a piston. And I've got a descent 8.5 and esc but thanks again for your comments...

And after reading this thread, would expect a little more of an answer per say than your "rtr" comment, after all the on topic garble in here. Some good info to be had if you've got the time to cipher all the replies like yours. Thanks again...
Originally Posted by nordfink
Going to use the reedy 3300 in my b4.2, from my sc10 until I decide what motor to get. Gearing suggestions for a medium bite, medium sized indoor clay/soil track? 1 straight about 70 ft, the rest is small jumps and turns. Thanks.
This is why I mentioned upgrading your electronics first. It wasn't a "dig", merely a suggestion of what should be a priority. Sorry if you took that the wrong way. It is tough to convey tone over text alone, especially in this thread.
DanielC. is offline  
Old 12-09-2013, 05:45 PM
  #11700  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 203
Default

So, have you personally tried tapering piston and running it? Hence the "experience? " I know how it sounds, but have you ever done it?
nordfink is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.