Team Associated B4.2 Thread
its not one part of the track that kicking my ass so it wont hurt to tune the car differently in general. it pushes everywhere on power, its just the worst through the sweeper at the end of the straight. so should I try green or white in your opinion? Im also gonna drop the weight of the shock fluid in the rear a little too since its so cold.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Your username has Las Vegas under it so I'm assuming you run at 702, my track is similar in a warehouse cold $h!@!!!! Last night we went to practice and it was 39 degrees at 6pm(closing time) haha don't act like you didn't just sing the song. Anyways, I just rebuilt my shocks, 30 all the way around, used me sons left over pistons from his. 22, 55 4 hole up front with AE blacks, 54 4 hole with greens in the back. Ride height at 24 all around, felt like summer time and lands a bit more plush than before as well. Reminds me of how bypass shocks work, lands smooth then works it's way back up to ride height.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
Ive been reading all these posts and one thing I didn't hear was about Anti-squat witch I have used to fix push and spin out problems. I like zero for the most part. ive had push prob that I fixed with rear tires with less grib I know that sounds weird but not NO grip just less. maybe like a holeshot.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Ive been reading all these posts and one thing I didn't hear was about Anti-squat witch I have used to fix push and spin out problems. I like zero for the most part. ive had push prob that I fixed with rear tires with less grib I know that sounds weird but not NO grip just less. maybe like a holeshot.
if your track has big jumps no anti-squat will hinder jumping characteristics. just a thought for you.
Tech Adept
So I'm 500+ pages into this thread, now on tapered pistons. .. anybody tried filing off top edge of 1.6 or 1.7 to make a "home made" tapered piston?
I know some have before the taper pistons came out and worked but it had to be even throughout, and even though it worked it still had some oil blow by and would be inconsistent at times. the machined tapered are way better in comparison but if your budget minded go for it.
Tech Adept
How much difference really can there be? I know that the machined tolerances would be "exact" but we're taking about toy cars... That big of a difference? Any with experience? Have a set of 1.7 sitting in front of me begging to be rounded off...lol
That said, it sounds like you're just getting started out. I would worry about getting a decent sensored esc/motor for your buggy before messing with aftermarket pistons. You will definitely see a difference coming from your rtr electronics.
Tech Adept
Good to know. .. Thanks!
Tech Master
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Can you please elaborate on this. Ive been contemplating taking my anti squat out. I race outdoor on a fairly large track with medium to low grip and a couple large jumps. What should I expect to gain by taking my anti squat out?
Tech Adept
No rtr here, but thanks for the "dig"... purely a question, haven't heard too many "noobs" inquire about rounding a piston. And I've got a descent 8.5 and esc but thanks again for your comments...
And after reading this thread, would expect a little more of an answer per say than your "rtr" comment, after all the on topic garble in here. Some good info to be had if you've got the time to cipher all the replies like yours. Thanks again...
And after reading this thread, would expect a little more of an answer per say than your "rtr" comment, after all the on topic garble in here. Some good info to be had if you've got the time to cipher all the replies like yours. Thanks again...
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
Have an issue with my new b4.2 build. My steering spindle arms are touching the front A arms when I turn the wheels and the suspension is full extended. Has anyone else had this problem?
To make it worse, I have installed lunsford steering ball stud and they have a slightly longer thread than the original ball studs. The thread is protruding from the bottom of the steering spindle arm and also touching/scratching the front A arms (when the suspension is fully extended).
I have not yet installed the servo so I'm not sure if the servo will displace the steering that much, however I did not have this issue on the b4.1 as the steering block arms seem more elevated. Any help/suggestions?
To make it worse, I have installed lunsford steering ball stud and they have a slightly longer thread than the original ball studs. The thread is protruding from the bottom of the steering spindle arm and also touching/scratching the front A arms (when the suspension is fully extended).
I have not yet installed the servo so I'm not sure if the servo will displace the steering that much, however I did not have this issue on the b4.1 as the steering block arms seem more elevated. Any help/suggestions?
No rtr here, but thanks for the "dig"... purely a question, haven't heard too many "noobs" inquire about rounding a piston. And I've got a descent 8.5 and esc but thanks again for your comments...
And after reading this thread, would expect a little more of an answer per say than your "rtr" comment, after all the on topic garble in here. Some good info to be had if you've got the time to cipher all the replies like yours. Thanks again...
And after reading this thread, would expect a little more of an answer per say than your "rtr" comment, after all the on topic garble in here. Some good info to be had if you've got the time to cipher all the replies like yours. Thanks again...
Tech Adept
So, have you personally tried tapering piston and running it? Hence the "experience? " I know how it sounds, but have you ever done it?