He's correct. That is the same setting as your "travel" only it's on the fly and named Brake Strength. It must be at 100 during calibration and afterwards you can use it to adjust your braking.

I would like to make a petty gripe about this ESC... the fan / hotwire port is a snug fit for the harness that goes in there and would much easier to get into if the tolerance was a little more relaxed. Just not easy to get it seated in there when you have parts of the car in the way. How snug does it need to be to simply stay put?

And while I am here it would be nice if the power switch was inboard on the case and we had an option to put down a jumper to bypass it as "always on" instead of snip and splice. I hate trying to find a place to put the switch on my chassis.

The Gen2 is fine ESC with no a lot of complaints so far. I would agree with the two above and add two more potentials (one is more of a warning rather than a complaint). The 7.4 setting for higher BEC output actually puts out 8.0v. That isn't an issue for most (and I was actually happy to see that), but a word of caution for those with servo's with tight voltage tolerances. Secondly, still looking for a programmer that doesn't require the horrible PC hotwire software (I only have it working on one out of three machines).

Very happy with it so far and a big improvement over the gen1 IMO.

interesting. Maybe that's why my servos are getting pretty hot when running 7.4. Do you know what the output when set on 6.0 is?

6.0 setting it runs at 6.0-6.1
7.4 setting it runs at 8.0-8.1

Same on both of my units. Personally I see it as a bonus feature, but as you mentioned it could hurt some.

We made it tight so the fan would stay plugged in. I always CA the switch to the side of my ESC, has worked great the last 4 years.

Really??? Could be worth upgrading to Gen2 for...

This isn't the cause actually. If your servo is getting "hot" and not just "warm" your servo may be on it's way out, your end points may be not set properly, etc.

We chose 8.0v because a lipo receiver pack is between 8.4v(charged) and 7.4v(nominal). We only deliver the power, the servo is in control of it's own demand.

Either way your'e getting power in the right range for either 6v servos or 7.4v HV servos

My only worry with the CA glue to the case is that sooner or later I will likely swap the case out, that glue does indeed hold well. As I hear it there are fancy option colors in talks for these cases

Guess the end points are wrong, brand new servos.

Some quick comments on gearing with the SCT410 and EB48, since I've been running both of them for a while now, with varying electronics in the SCT.

The SCT410 with a 4200 generally runs in the 17t range. I run my 4700 and 5200 motors (diff motor brands) on 15t.

With a 1900 T8 in the EB48, 18t seems to be the sweet spot for many, with 17t for small/tight tracks and 19t as an option for ginormous tracks.

In general, if you find that you have too much wheelspin, adjust current limit rather than gearing. Even on our high bite tracks, several folks running the Pro4 HD were all the way down to 30% current limit to make the bottom easier and reduce the wheelspin.

I run my SCT410 with 55% current limit with a different motor, and my EB48 without limit...but I drive the EB48 like a 2wd so I'm super smooth with throttle (and also why I can do 20 minute mains with it)...the SCT410 on the other hand, I've managed to pull wheelies down the straight even with that much current limit, so if you don't have great traction, go down even further. Not only will it all run much cooler, it'll be much more drivable too.

Shoegoo is my choice to attach the switch to the side. Won't come off till you want it off and when you take it off, it leaves zero residue.

There are lots of ways people choose to do this. I won't say my way is the "right" way but I can tell you that in all my years of racing, I've only lost one servo.

I setup my epa's to give me full lock, but my servo is not "working" to hold it there. In other words I back off my epa to the point where the servo can hold full lock but isn't "buzzing" to hold. If yours makes noise while at lock this may be the reason you're getting hot.

I just finished a build of a Durango DESC410 Pro and put one of these in there. Need to put the motor in to run it, so I guess not entirely done. Anybody running this ESC in a DESC410 that can give me some esc setting to start with? I will be running on a medium large and large track with medium to high traction. And the motor will be a thunder power 4 turn 550. Thanks for the help.

Start out with Lutz's 4.5 SC4x seutp. It will get you close: http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESC...nLutz_v223.pdf