+100.

My son is the perfect example. He has worked hard and is a damn good driver. He has a very old B4.1 that he has very nicely upgraded but at the end of the day it is the oldest car out there. He doesn't have any support other than himself and myself but he doesn't have $1,000's into his car. Half the time he is running on a not so smooth diff.

He raced in a big race here locally and out of 65+ racers about half sponsored in some way and even a few team drivers he made the A Main.

It is not the car, it is the driver. As long as you have a decent set up you can run with the crowd. I get flamed out all the time for saying that as it really pisses people off that are spending thousands on mods to chase an extra .1 second. Go drive and practice with what you have. Now if you want to go mod, great it is part of the hobby and we all do it.

Try 32/72 to start with.

true, i always buy used and don't spend half as much as others and can still keep up very good, but nonetheless there are upgrades that make you seriously faster: batteries (thank god speed doesn't give you a big advantage at my track), motor + esc (same as batteries), tires tires tires, mm4-cars, track time

While it is true that bling rarely makes you much faster. Some cars suit people more than others. you can tune a car, but you cant dramatically change the inherit feel of the car, just fine tune it. I ran my buggy that has a lot of money into it and ran my t4 that was bough on release. it had a 19turn brushed motor, a traxxas esc and a 15 dollar servo. And after 5 minutes, I was only 3 seconds slower than my buggy. Did my I mention I had the wrong tires and I glues them up like 8 years ago. Who remembers lug nuts, lol. The fronts were at 50% tread left at best. So why do I spend all of this money on motors and esc's? lol. well the brushed motor did get so hot that I desoldered the motor wire, lol. I dont think it was designed for lipo high voltage output, lol.

Takes a good driver & a great car to be a champion ...
So get a C 4.2 today or you will be sorry ..

I think it's always a compromise beetween how much it costs and how much it makes you faster. Half a year ago I managed to finish 2nd with slicks because the guy behind me had his car way too aggressive and crashed. (he had a bit bad luck too). Now he tuned his car properly and I have to buy tires to keep up and he is still faster Besides from tires there are a few aftermarket parts that can do a lot like tuning parts to adjust roll center and things like that, or for example the SC10 4x4 centerdiff. Weight saving can also make a difference but i don't think it's worth the cost just to save 0.3 seconds.

hey wild cherry have you ran your c4 in stock class or just mod? still debating if I should get one but I only race stock. I hope AE does come out with their own chassis that can be configured in both ways.

derbrylac

get your Centro , no one will be running B4 anymore ..

Not like the B4 has a advantage in stock , as traction comes up ?

The Centro drives better while the B4 becomes darty and harder to drive .

C4.2 is the best car I have ever driven in my career , including RB6, 22 2.0, Dingo's ect ...

I have to agree. I raced yesterday, There was a guy there that had a old losi xx. And he is just getting back into racing, so he just bought it out to run. After racing was over he was running some laps and he handed me the radio over. And I must say I was shocked. The car felt awesome. Actually felt better than the car I raced yesterday lol. So basically, you do not need all these newer cars that are coming out. There is only so many ways to make a 2wd buggy. The new serpent car looks to me atleast just like a b4.

Hope your right WC.

I think at the end all companies will find a basic design that works best and from there on it's only some kind of "setup". The choice of materials for example which affects the flex characteristics of that car, or some geometry changes which make the car easier to drive out of the box. If you were able to change all these paramaters you could make every car with the same basic design handle the same, but since you're not, it's the team's job to find a starting setup that is easy to adapt to all kinds of tracks.

@ the track
just let a buddy drive my C4 & I drove his B4

B4 does not corner or carry speed like the Centro can.
Even my buddy agrees.
B4 is over

I want to try a the C4.1 thingy. Just to be different.

I bet it would be dialed on the 10'x10' indoor track I run on in the winter.

I heard you were putting down some sick times at LRH. I am there now trying out the gear diff. I started with 2K. I like it. I am going to try a little heavier next water break. I can tell you my times are faster with gear vs ball.

Hey guys a guy at the track accidently cracked my B4.2 front shock tower, I'm wondering should I modify a b4 carbon tower to clear the 12mm shocks or is the b4.2 geometry different?