SC10 4x4 Thread
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 939
From: Commerce Twp. MI
I have it stock for now. Except for the set up chart you emailed me Cain. And it ran great on its first outing on a 1/5 scale track. I will have a novak ESC and motor in it but for now I just had my backup 4000KV motor cause I was impatient to try it out. I wanted to see how well it did and it did great. I have to get used to the truck cause it feels a bit different to drive but over all its very glued to the track. And it takes the jumps flawlessly. There are two guys at the track that ran they're SC10 4x4 truck and they were surprised that I had the battery up front like that and that the truck handled so well. They said they will try this set up.

Also try putting sticky weights (1 1/2-2 oz) around your servo.
Louie
Expect to find some extra stability & traction from the Exo's extra weight.
The extra pad added to the VTS allows you to adjust the slipper much looser then when using three pads.
The 4th pad extra's grip still maintains awesome punch while being a lot smoother & delivering consistent performance pack after pack ...
truck will be more predicable & easier to drive fast with and spend only $12 to do .
Easy to install & adjust .
Just add a extra slipper ring & pad on top of the first 2 pads...
Expect to find some extra stability & traction from the Exo's extra weight.
The extra pad added to the VTS allows you to adjust the slipper much looser then when using three pads.
The 4th pad extra's grip still maintains awesome punch while being a lot smoother & delivering consistent performance pack after pack ...
truck will be more predicable & easier to drive fast with and spend only $12 to do .
Easy to install & adjust .
Just add a extra slipper ring & pad on top of the first 2 pads...
I ran the exotek locker and pulled it after one practice day. The truck pushed into the turns and front tires balloned alot under wot with 5000 in both diffs. I don't recommend it for indoor. I put the locker in my basher and same thing the front ballons alot and steering is real agressive under wot. You have to run a tighter slipper with the locker for bashing for a more full time 4wd feeling. From what I read the center diff basically performs the same way. In the end the vts offers the best of both worlds. Imo, this is what I experianced.
This truck is legit I own two, one FT for indoor and my old original preorder kit for bashing. I've practiced at the track with all the brands and I've only seen a handful of people I couldn't catch running other brands and that mainly boils down to them having better skills than me and not cracking under pressure and I'm one of the faster guys with the best of everything that spares no expense but doesn't race. To busy working...all the time....
If you really enjoy the truck then I'd stay away from this thread as much as possible. LOL! I give you this advise based on personal experience.
If you really enjoy the truck then I'd stay away from this thread as much as possible. LOL! I give you this advise based on personal experience.
This truck is legit I own two, one FT for indoor and my old original preorder kit for bashing. I've practiced at the track with all the brands and I've only seen a handful of people I couldn't catch running other brands and that mainly boils down to them having better skills than me and not cracking under pressure and I'm one of the faster guys with the best of everything that spares no expense but doesn't race. To busy working...all the time....
If you really enjoy the truck then I'd stay away from this thread as much as possible. LOL! I give you this advise based on personal experience.
If you really enjoy the truck then I'd stay away from this thread as much as possible. LOL! I give you this advise based on personal experience.
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 10-14-2013 at 09:50 PM.
Jstall, just curious, but how could you (or anyone for that matter, like Wc) claim based on your real world experience that the vts is the "best of both worlds", when you have had, as you yourself stated, no real world experience trying and actually driving with the center diff?
I bet if and when Ae does a makeover or improvement on this platform, all that have worked on making performance upgrades for this vehicles shortcomings, will see a lot of things they came up with to make this truck better be put on this vehicle with the ae factory team stamp on it. Then all which have the fan boy blinders on, will eventually say the parts are necessary and are Unbeatable. Those same performance upgrades that were mocked and claimed to be inferior, will now then be to those same naysayers, the next best thing sense sliced bread. Oh, wait for it, wait for it, that allready happened!
May happen again!
I bet if and when Ae does a makeover or improvement on this platform, all that have worked on making performance upgrades for this vehicles shortcomings, will see a lot of things they came up with to make this truck better be put on this vehicle with the ae factory team stamp on it. Then all which have the fan boy blinders on, will eventually say the parts are necessary and are Unbeatable. Those same performance upgrades that were mocked and claimed to be inferior, will now then be to those same naysayers, the next best thing sense sliced bread. Oh, wait for it, wait for it, that allready happened!
May happen again!
I think something that I found interesting where "1/10 4wd" is potentially going is this post found on the Hot Bodies D413 thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12631242-post567.html
It will be interesting to see how far this goes and if other manufacturers follow suit. But at least to me, I think there is some merit to a center diff setup in a 1/10 scaled vehicle if someone of Tessman's standing thinks so too. Heck, worth at least trying it if its an option in my opinion at least on vehicles limited to only a slipper setup.
But who knows, maybe they are going about it wrong and things will go swing back to where multiple pad slippers become common in 1/8 Buggies, Truggies, etc and 1/10 as well.
For durability, the truck in my opinion is already durable. I think you need to make sure though you get the right shims for the diffs. Depending on what you see, you may want that alloy steering rack that STRC sells.
Other than that, i can't really think of anything from a durability perspective that stood out from what people have reported.
For your question on the exotek chassis, the benefits of it are that if you find you need more weight, it adds it at the lowest point possible versus just stick extra weight on the chassis. On rough tracks from what I saw the vehicle was more stable and didn't get kicked around as easily by the heavies like the Tekno and Losi. You also don't need to the chassis brace either.
I always wondered with the weight bias of the AE how it could be biased more forward if Exotek had made an alloy front chassis plate too. the modular design of the AE could lend itself to benefits like that which other flat plate designs like the Tekno for example couldn't.
I'd recommend if you go with a heavier setup to look at a 4 pole 540 motor at a minimum.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12631242-post567.html
Performance. We didn't really spend too much time thinking about the pros and cons of diff vs slipper. We just tried it. From 1/8 4WD buggy experience we know how much influence the center diff has on the car's handling so why not have one on a 1/10 4WD buggy? The center diff was in fact a suggestion that came from the Tessmanns. The first time I met them after I started working for HPI/HB they had already brought with them a D4 modified to fit a touring car gear diff as a center diff. We tested it back to back with a slipper at WCRC and it immediately showed potential. My first thought was that it must have been forbidden in the rules because it was so obvious yet nobody else has one. I checked all the rule books and sure enough none of them said anything about a center diff so we proceeded with it.
But who knows, maybe they are going about it wrong and things will go swing back to where multiple pad slippers become common in 1/8 Buggies, Truggies, etc and 1/10 as well.
Other than that, i can't really think of anything from a durability perspective that stood out from what people have reported.
For your question on the exotek chassis, the benefits of it are that if you find you need more weight, it adds it at the lowest point possible versus just stick extra weight on the chassis. On rough tracks from what I saw the vehicle was more stable and didn't get kicked around as easily by the heavies like the Tekno and Losi. You also don't need to the chassis brace either.
I always wondered with the weight bias of the AE how it could be biased more forward if Exotek had made an alloy front chassis plate too. the modular design of the AE could lend itself to benefits like that which other flat plate designs like the Tekno for example couldn't.
I'd recommend if you go with a heavier setup to look at a 4 pole 540 motor at a minimum.



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