You should try moving the battery all the way forward , no pad in front .

steers best this way ....

Start with no ballast other then 7grams in rear corner of chassis & the team ballast next to transmission.

Only add weight on the front servo if you can wheelie on the straights or traction rolling , weight on the nose is good for really high traction conditions as a rule .

Experiment using a little less weight next to transmission if you wish for more traction .
I only use 7 gram next to the gear box myself .


Use the 3 x 1.4 contour in the front shocks & get some 2 x 1.6 contour for the rear ...

WhY contour pistons ?????( this is for turbo)

They rebound faster , the car sets up for the turns faster with less delay . You really notice on small double or tables that have a sharp turn on the landings.

The car will turn instead of stalling on landing . No waiting for it to finish landing and then turn.

Apologies , best way I can describe how they perform & why you would like to try .....

Use the set up I just posted cept think you may like greens springs front & rear more & also 30W in the rear shock.


If the set-up is too loose & steers too much ?

switch the carbon rear arms for plastic B4 arm.

start running the car at 24mm ride height , only lower the height if traction is very good or med high ...

[QUOTE=rc car guy;12595919]I have three 4.2s and the one in question has a new idler ,diff gear and aluminum top shaft with a triad slipper(avid centering kit) the other 2 are whisper quiet and bone stock,also im just asuming......and it is only a low speed pitch issue

[QUOTE=Waflet;12595993]I will check that out thanks.

[QUOTE=Flip boy;12596519]Also check that your top shaft and make sure it is straight. There have been several reports of bent top shafts in this thread and the thread specifically about the kit. The way AVID ships the kits (padded bag via USPS) leaves some room for bending during shipping. If it's bent contact AVID, they have replaced them for others.

the avid shafts come bent... I sent two back and got replacements that were also bent and a few guys that I race with also had bent shafts with the avid kit. Slide the motor away from the spur then spin your wheels. You will see the treaded portion wobble.

[QUOTE=Flip boy;12596519]

Double post

Make sure the motor plate is straight . That will make noise if it bent

I figured out my steering binding issue. It was due to excessive toe out. I knew it was off but it didn't strike me as the issue until I got to the final setup stage of the build.

What happened was I built the links using the manual's measurements, however the RPM ball cups were shorter than stock so all my links were about 4mm short.

I found a good way to get my front end setup without fancy tools, I'm sure most already know, but thought I would share anyway

1. setup servo horn to be close to zero as possible and attach steering link
2. subtrim until the link is as close to centered as possible via eyeballing against the ridge of the top plate on the right hand side.
3. use a ruler to draw two parallel lines on a sheet of paper about 30mm apart
4. line up the front wheels (this is assuming the links are already set to same length) on the line furthest from you
5. Lay the camber tool flat on the paper on the other line using the desired angle against the wheel. So just like you would measuring camber but flat on the table to measure the toe. You could also use a protractor to draw and/or measure the angle but I find the included tool in the kit works great.

It's a lot cheaper than a fancy setup station and $50 setup board.

[QUOTE=Grasschopper;12596573]I didn't even consider that thankks will check guys, very hepful

well im not entirely sure about the rest of you guys but i have a camber gauge and a ride height gauge, and a flat boar one of the guys at track got from work fiber glass on one side and like a particle board on the other side, i have a small level a 6 inch one that use to get it close to level when im out at the track,

also what do you guys think about aka's new evo sling shot wheels/tires i have a set preordered, i race blinky 17.5 indoor ozite(high bite) carpet, we are running ribs on front and suburbs rear, suburbs we get a month or so out of them depends practice (clay compound for both tires)

I forgot to add that I use my digital calipers heavily to make sure the links are the same on both sides. I can get within 95% accuracy eyeballing with the simple tools, and I figure that is close enough for dirt as long as it's symmetric.

I just use the kits direction's for the Ti rod's proper measurements.

With a set of caliber's can get a perfect alinement every time ...

That was my intention but the ball cups I used were different lengths. Besides that doesn't really help if you ever decide to tune your car and make an adjustment not spelled out by the manual.

Does not matter which brand ball
cup you use , still the same measurements ....

If you do as I suggest ?

You will only have to use the steering sub trim to finish the alinement .

Try this , car will track like a arrow when done.
Both sides of the Ti rods will be equal & even .....

As I said, the RPM cups have shorter shafts than the stock AE cups, the manual gives measurements based on how far apart the cups are apart, not the total length of the arm, and even then the RPM's are thicker which is what makes them hold on tighter during hard landings and hitting pipes.

I'm not sure, but the "long shank" RPM cups may be the same size, but I haven't compared those.