Tekno RC EB48 Thread
#9346
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 762
From: Mississippi
I just put a new gen2 Tekin in my car (fit like it was made for it!) and a 1900kv motor, could someone recommend a pinion size to start with? I think I need to buy some more pinion's and wanted to know what range to purchase. Thanks
#9347
Pinion wise, 16T, 17T and 18T seem to be common ones to have on hand.
For outdoor medium to large tracks, I'm using 18T pinion with Tekin 1900, indoor starts this week, so will probably drop down to a 17T pinion since its a little smaller
For outdoor medium to large tracks, I'm using 18T pinion with Tekin 1900, indoor starts this week, so will probably drop down to a 17T pinion since its a little smaller
#9348
16-18t depending on track size .......
#9349
I have a Tekin 1900 but not the Gen2 version. I started with 16 but it seemed to overspin. I only carry a 17 and 18 with me, 17 for smaller, 18 for larger tracks.
#9351
I am thinking by overspin he means he was at the top end of his throttle range over most of the track?
You don't want to be pinned WOT when getting around the track.
I usually go with a rule of thumb of gearing to top out towards the end of the longest straight. From there, I can adjust my gearing accordingly after reviewing temps. Works well, usually stick with the gearing or go 1 tooth change at most.
Or, if you want just a range, the 16T and above is a nice selection, or 35mph - 40mph for top end speed is what some gear to as well.
You don't want to be pinned WOT when getting around the track.
I usually go with a rule of thumb of gearing to top out towards the end of the longest straight. From there, I can adjust my gearing accordingly after reviewing temps. Works well, usually stick with the gearing or go 1 tooth change at most.
Or, if you want just a range, the 16T and above is a nice selection, or 35mph - 40mph for top end speed is what some gear to as well.
#9352
I didn't know Tekin was made in the USA. I was under their impression that their ESCs were of foreign manufacture? Can you verify, because I don't think that's accurate. But a tremendous effort if so. Not to get into a great debate, and by no means would I say that Tekin customer support is deficient in any way, shape or form (and have great respect for Tekin and the offerings they give military members), but I don't know if your experience/understanding aligns with the masses and facts.
I have been given TREMENDOUS support by HobbyWing of North America (HWNA) (www.falconsekido.com). They're in California, the same state as Tekin. I think if you call Tekin and start talking Japanese or Korean they'll look at you real funny. If you call HWNA, you can talk to them in English and probably Japanese too (depending on who you talk to). Support included very timely communication in perfect English, parts support, discounts on new purchases for being a repeat customer (I am not sponsored by HWNA), and technical support. Technical support is also offered on this Forum.
From experience, I think Tekin gives you GREAT support. I've had one Tekin ESC and had to get it repaired. I have over 8 HobbyWing ESCs and have yet to need a single electronics repair.
In terms of warranty, HWNA gives you 180 days, Tekin gives you 120.
Warranty information (copy/pasted from company literature):
Tekin
(I also didn't like having to buy and bring a laptop and a hotwire interface to the track with me when I had a Tekin....)
So as not to take up any more time in the EB48 thread, I won't write anymore on this subject since it's out of scope. Sorry guys!
I have been given TREMENDOUS support by HobbyWing of North America (HWNA) (www.falconsekido.com). They're in California, the same state as Tekin. I think if you call Tekin and start talking Japanese or Korean they'll look at you real funny. If you call HWNA, you can talk to them in English and probably Japanese too (depending on who you talk to). Support included very timely communication in perfect English, parts support, discounts on new purchases for being a repeat customer (I am not sponsored by HWNA), and technical support. Technical support is also offered on this Forum.
From experience, I think Tekin gives you GREAT support. I've had one Tekin ESC and had to get it repaired. I have over 8 HobbyWing ESCs and have yet to need a single electronics repair.
In terms of warranty, HWNA gives you 180 days, Tekin gives you 120.
Warranty information (copy/pasted from company literature):
Tekin
TEKIN, INC. guarantees speed controllers to be free from factory defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 120 days from date of purchase, when verified by sales receipt. This warranty does not cover: suitability for specific application, components worn by use or improper voltage, tampering, misuse, or shipping. Our warranty liability shall be limited to repairing unit to our original specifications. Because we have no control over the installation or use of this product, in no case shall we be liable for damages.
HWNANothing is perfect.. Our team works very hard to improve our products and learn something new every day.
Thanks to their commitment, HOBBYWING of North America is proud to announce that our official warranty period has now extended " double" - 180 days from the date of purchase. This is another reason why you want to acquire HW products from the authorized stores in North America.
Again, Tekin gives you great customer support for repair. My experience is that you'll need it. HWNA gives you great customer support, though you may never need it.Thanks to their commitment, HOBBYWING of North America is proud to announce that our official warranty period has now extended " double" - 180 days from the date of purchase. This is another reason why you want to acquire HW products from the authorized stores in North America.
(I also didn't like having to buy and bring a laptop and a hotwire interface to the track with me when I had a Tekin....)
So as not to take up any more time in the EB48 thread, I won't write anymore on this subject since it's out of scope. Sorry guys!
#9353
Pretty much the only Tekin issue I saw reported and had happen to me that I don't consider user error was the whole "it shut down after a jump" issue. If Tekin did include say that kyosho servo gel tape stuff maybe more so on the user if they didn't use it, but considering the ESC was designed for the usage that people were putting it through, I don't really put that on the user. I am glad though that it appears the issue was resolved with the Gen 2 it seems and as always, there customer service was impeccable.
Overall, funny stuff, best service I ever had was from Shawn from Speed Passion when my Silver Arrow V1 decided to catch on fire after 3 laps, about 10 minutes. Burned up quite a bit of stuff, and it sounds like they were recalling the ESC. Speed Passion ended up replacing with there equivalent stuff pretty much everything that got damaged.
Back on topic, in comparison to the original a-arms, anyone boil the originals and compare them to the xtra tough ones? if so, which seemed to be stronger at that point? I am thinking when winter racing gets going again I may either boil my a-arms or buy some of the xtra toughs.
Overall, funny stuff, best service I ever had was from Shawn from Speed Passion when my Silver Arrow V1 decided to catch on fire after 3 laps, about 10 minutes. Burned up quite a bit of stuff, and it sounds like they were recalling the ESC. Speed Passion ended up replacing with there equivalent stuff pretty much everything that got damaged.
Back on topic, in comparison to the original a-arms, anyone boil the originals and compare them to the xtra tough ones? if so, which seemed to be stronger at that point? I am thinking when winter racing gets going again I may either boil my a-arms or buy some of the xtra toughs.
#9354
I've always had a Tekin T8 1900 in my EB48s.
I've also had a couple different ESCs in them.
Some of them did about the same as the RX8s (one Gen1 and one Gen2) for the first couple minutes, but all of them except the RX8 faded off in longer runs (and we often do 10 or 12 minute mains). The worst in that aspect was the Castle MMP, which felt like I'd stuck a 3s in and turned all the current limit on.
In my SCTs, I've also tried many ESCs, along with many motors (see prior posts in the thread for motor comparisons). The MMP was 100% useless with anything but their own motor, and couldn't handle the servos either. The HobbyWing (SCT Pro, which is what most also run in the EB48 if going HW) was good, but not as adjustable as some of the others, and it had some compatibility problems with some of the motors I tried, but was good with the Tekin Pro4. Then I dropped the RX8 in with the same motors and it was like night and day for how much more power I had available to me.
I've NOT tried some of the other 10th scale controllers (in the SCs), but expect they would also have either the overall power issue or a fade issue due to heat when pulling the kind of amps we have in the SCs. I've also NOT tried the Novak combo (which I've heard nothing but good things about, except I've seen all the local ones flame, melt, or die...so I don't want to try it myself), nor the Viper combo (which seems pretty good as well) in either the SCT or EB.
I still adhere that for ME, when I'm on a budget (or building more cheaply) it'll be HobbyWing (SCT Pro for SC or 8th scale) for the ESC, and if I'm not, it'll be the RX8. For the motor, I've considered trying one of the T8-like HobbyKing motors, which I might do for a budget or basher build, but definitely would go T8 for any serious race vehicle, especially with how cheap you can get the amazing Gen1 for used now.
I've also had a couple different ESCs in them.
Some of them did about the same as the RX8s (one Gen1 and one Gen2) for the first couple minutes, but all of them except the RX8 faded off in longer runs (and we often do 10 or 12 minute mains). The worst in that aspect was the Castle MMP, which felt like I'd stuck a 3s in and turned all the current limit on.
In my SCTs, I've also tried many ESCs, along with many motors (see prior posts in the thread for motor comparisons). The MMP was 100% useless with anything but their own motor, and couldn't handle the servos either. The HobbyWing (SCT Pro, which is what most also run in the EB48 if going HW) was good, but not as adjustable as some of the others, and it had some compatibility problems with some of the motors I tried, but was good with the Tekin Pro4. Then I dropped the RX8 in with the same motors and it was like night and day for how much more power I had available to me.
I've NOT tried some of the other 10th scale controllers (in the SCs), but expect they would also have either the overall power issue or a fade issue due to heat when pulling the kind of amps we have in the SCs. I've also NOT tried the Novak combo (which I've heard nothing but good things about, except I've seen all the local ones flame, melt, or die...so I don't want to try it myself), nor the Viper combo (which seems pretty good as well) in either the SCT or EB.
I still adhere that for ME, when I'm on a budget (or building more cheaply) it'll be HobbyWing (SCT Pro for SC or 8th scale) for the ESC, and if I'm not, it'll be the RX8. For the motor, I've considered trying one of the T8-like HobbyKing motors, which I might do for a budget or basher build, but definitely would go T8 for any serious race vehicle, especially with how cheap you can get the amazing Gen1 for used now.
#9355
I'll be using my gen1 rx8 in my new eb48.2. One thing I'd like to mention, & sorry if it's already been said, is that along with a great tekin warranty, there's usually a tekin rep at big races willing and able to help out if you need it. If your a racer, that's a huge plus! I haven't seen a HW rep at any big races yet...not bashing HW, I like their stuff, just stating what I've seen.
#9356
I am thinking by overspin he means he was at the top end of his throttle range over most of the track?
You don't want to be pinned WOT when getting around the track.
I usually go with a rule of thumb of gearing to top out towards the end of the longest straight. From there, I can adjust my gearing accordingly after reviewing temps. Works well, usually stick with the gearing or go 1 tooth change at most.
Or, if you want just a range, the 16T and above is a nice selection, or 35mph - 40mph for top end speed is what some gear to as well.
You don't want to be pinned WOT when getting around the track.
I usually go with a rule of thumb of gearing to top out towards the end of the longest straight. From there, I can adjust my gearing accordingly after reviewing temps. Works well, usually stick with the gearing or go 1 tooth change at most.
Or, if you want just a range, the 16T and above is a nice selection, or 35mph - 40mph for top end speed is what some gear to as well.
Essentially running the motor hard on the top end for extended period of time, causing more heat type of scenario thing. For me it just didn't put me in an ideal range.
#9357
Back on topic, in comparison to the original a-arms, anyone boil the originals and compare them to the xtra tough ones? if so, which seemed to be stronger at that point? I am thinking when winter racing gets going again I may either boil my a-arms or buy some of the xtra toughs.
#9359
#9360
Also it would be nice to have a deticated titanium screw kit for eb48.2 by lunsford! !!
And a deticated titanium hinge pin kit for eb48. 2 which should include two hinge pins outer rear and four inner front/rear hinge pins
Last edited by LAZNICK RC; 10-01-2013 at 05:06 PM.



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