In case anyone is curious, to convert an EB48 to EB48.2 would cost at least $404 and thats only if you buy complete diffs because its cheaper(about 50%) than buying all the pieces separately.

So you are better off buying a new kit, that being said it just goes to show you how much value you are getting from Tekno considering they did not raise the price even one cent.

Graham,

We are currently out of stock on TKR5013B but should be in within the next 4-6 weeks but maybe sooner.

Sorry for the delay, we had them and they sold out quick!

-Thomas

I personally have not ran my brand new EB48.1 and will run it for the time. As things break and need replacing is when I will put the .2 parts on (minus the arms)

Which hole in the Ackerman plate will give a greater angle than the stock M position?

Awesome. I will look out out for them. Would you guys consider doing the "email me when in stock" feature that, for example, Stormer uses?

We haven't noticed any difference in wear between the steel and aluminum. The plastic will wear before the pivot balls do, but everything should stay tight for a long time.

I run for HW and the sct pro will do the job needed.
Forward gives more steering angle on both wheels (less ackerman)

My EB48 is already converted to the .2 + Carbon Towers. It does just fine outdoors, doesn't get beat up at al.

Is your track smooth or rough? How big are jumps? Is it well maintained?

My eb48 does great outdoors (that's all i race). Never felt like it was at a disadvantage to anyone else's car. It really handles the bumps well with stock pistons and some minor oil wt changes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s09f5iFgGB0

Last race, and track is generally rough, lots of random holes and ruts out on it, hard to see.

Could you make a 10 min main with their 3500 mah pack?

No they are the hubs from the sct410 I converted it

That looks like a fun track pretty cool design and no real hard big jumps either , either buggy would work fine around there I would think

What's your current limiter set at? I think you could drop it some for a bit better traction as the track looks pretty loose off line.

I just built a new centre diff using parts I had ordered. Very smooth while allowing the spur to be screwed down nice and tight. Seemed very different to my first build where I was having issues with them being notchy depending on how tight they were put together. Not having built diffs before I really didn't know what to expect.