Funny, when actually asking him about it, it wasn't the Center Diff that was the issue ...

Not sure either what Shark was thinking when he tried various configurations of the VTS and went BACK to the center diff ...

Must be running without jumps

Cherry... I have ran the cdiff and vts and vts garo, VTS High torq and AE coupled and exo front locker... At JCPRC raceway in indianapolis. and I have to totally disagree with your bias toward the VTS putting down all the power and being the best there is.. I am able to drive halfway decently since I have been lucky enough to TQ a couple of heats even when we have 20 plus trucks. the problem is in the main when we actually race, the other trucks are able to come out of the corner so much harder that I am actually in the way with the stock VTS. I also could not clear the big jumps like they could with the three diff trucks. I put in the C Diff with all the pins and bam Clearing jumps and hanging with them... Not passing but hanging in there...

oh and the other problem I had with the VTS was comming onto the straight the back would want to pass the front.. HD inner pad better, Garo inner even better, Locker Best but caused a slight push in tight corners. C diff ... well It was lots better but ballooned the front tires so I think there is room for improvement.

Now with that said please educate me on how to clean, set and test for the magical setting that makes the VTS the best there is.. ??? I really would like to know due trying all the options out there and comming up with the C diff and all the pins being the best performing on the medium traction packed dirt/clay track even though it does not feel like a pan car diff on the bench it seems to me that its the best thing going....

At this time I feel that even for indoors a center gear diff is needed.

BenG477:

what are you running for diff oil setup in the front and rear as well as the number of Pins you are running on your conditions?

On Carpet, pretty much the highest traction you can get I was at 8 pins and loved it with no ballooning.

I would recommend checking your Center Diff pins as well to see if they are worn at all. When they do wear, they don't grip as much. I am not sure if he has going to a new pin type, but prior to me changing vehicles Marcus sent me new pins that were darker in color which I believe are a harder material and last longer than the silver ones I had previously.

Ben G

Not being bias , have use all of the others for many weeks .
I am being truthful & really do know what performs best .


Yellow pad still outperform fiber glass pads

Clean pads with a X knife by scraping the glaze off ..

With 4 pads set the slipper so the top shaft is flush with the top of lock nut .

With 3 pads 3/16 in of thread above the lock nut .


Also ask you to consider many that come here to advise don't even race the Sc10 4x4 .
They only come here to sell aftermarket .Not one concern or care about your personal performance other then what is in your wallet ...

Forgot .....


The PINK ran well again last night ....

2 wins now.....

Against Tekno & new Losi & some of the better Sc driver's at the wheel .

Even had a new customer buy a Sc10 after driving the PINK .....

FUN , this is why I race Sc 4x4 !!!!!!

I need advice on setting up for outdoor racing I just got a sc10 4x4 and I will be racing outdoors on dirt track. I will also try to make a few races this winter indoors on a clay track.

So if the owner of Hot Racing that makes the rear hub that you just got does not race this truck he is just trying to get money out of other peoples pockets? All aftermarket companies owners need to race every car that they make products for?


My memory is still in good shape, just because I no longer race this truck doesn't mean I don't know it inside & out.

Cain's got one, maybe he'll email it to you.

Weren't you in the past claiming that the 2 Pad setup was fine even when the 3 pad Clutch baskets offered superior performance? Assuming you "know what performs best", I am surprised you missed that ... Oversight maybe due to not being directly available from AE at the time?

Can't imagine the pickle you were in before AE made there version of the chassis brace ...

And please let us know exactly when you tested the Center Diff? This must have been recently as you in the past have stated you never tested it, only saw Cameron have electrical issues that he stated himself and chalked it up to the Center Diff on a whim. It would be no different than me chalking up a part failure on my tekno because I forgot to plug in my battery

So Shark who's reviews are pretty thorough and for pretty much everyone who comments on his reviews agree he is unbiased is selling the Center Diff and lying? Damn, he must have gotten one hell of a check ... And the funny thing is, from what he has been saying recently he has been running his SC10 4x4 in a light configuration the most, especially since the performance he is seeing with the Center Diff is Superior to the Slipper setups, even with Garodiscs.

And last I checked, the owner of RC Shox actually ran the vehicle to develop the parts for it. There are videos of that on youtube by the way. He didn't just drill the stuff out and call it good. But, to know that, you have to take the blinders off, regardless if they are pink or not ...

How is that challenge race between you and him coming? I mean, considering the fact that the loser pays the others plane ticket and he doesn't race his stuff, you shouldn't have a problem with that right? Easy win ...

Please make sure to take video!

And weren't you on this thread at one point promoting the superiority of the Prolite truck above all others enough so you got your posts deleted? I would think if you wanted to help someone with the performance of the SC10 4x4 you would advise them of things to do to the SC10 4x4.

lol I was wondering the same thing ...

+1 . I am assuming when WC went Prolite all his knowledge of the SC10 4x4 disappeared at that point.

Heck, my memory still has in it that we are going to get a video from BK explaining the +8mm Mod that he promised agreeing fully with his assessment.

And to be fair on that, I took his advice and tried the mod, didn't work the way he said for me but I recommended to those who wanted to try it, give it a shot and see what they think. For the cost, not bad to try.

For those coming to the vehicle new, there is a wealth of knowledge to be had on the vehicle from all the racers who went with it in the beginning till now. Keep an open mind, be willing to try things and be honest in your assessments, and above all else have fun.

+1, send me your email and I will send it to you, same with anyone else.

My setup though uses the following:

- RC Shox Center Diff
- RC Shox Dual stage pistons
- M2C Rear Toe in Block
- Exotek Chassis
- Front springs on the rear


In my opinion, the biggest "lets get traction" change is almost a tie between the M2C rear toe in block and the RC Shox Center Diff. I give a very slight edge to the M2C rear toe in block for locking in the rear and how much it costs, so if starting from a fresh FT truck, get that part for sure and go 3.5 toe.

If not running the exotek chassis setup or similar added weight, you will probably want 1 touch lighter spring. Me personally I liked the heavier spring rates as the truck didn't seem to dive in ruts like it did with the standard available rear spring rates. Much better suspension action.

And RC Shox dual stage pistons are money on rough sections of the track. On smooth tracks like when I ran indoor carpet, pretty much the same as stock pistons.

Truck can be very good, its money indoors, I just feel it was designed for a different kind of class outdoors than what we have now (large 1/8 tracks). Having vehicles in the same class that are based on 1/8 buggies in conditions like that puts the SC10 4x4 at a disadvantage.

And for those who say a slipper setup with 4 - infinity of pads is better than a center diff setup, I look forward to reports on the next RC8 being equipped as such since it is superior, unless that is illegal based on IFMAR / ROAR rules which I don't think it is.

I do want to say that most of you that have been giving your 2cents on your experience with racing the SC10 4x4, is pretty good stuff!
I have raced this SC Truck in the past,but have not had very much luck with it.
It has just been collecting dust over the past year,but after reading about the center diff,I think I'm ready to give it a try once again.I have seen this truck handle like a champ on a medium to large indoor clay track before...but the guy driving it was not your normal weekend warrior like myself.I will place an order for the c-diff and see what happens.If there is anything that I should know before installing,please let me know...

Look on the RC Shox thread for assembly instructions. He may have a link from his site.

Start with 4 pins. The more traction you have, the more pins you will use. I personally was up to 8 pins on carpet (max is 10 from memory).

when did hot rod racing ever post or endorse their product on this thread ?

You endorse all you like & I will do my best to inform Sc 10 drivers my experience tuning the Sc 10.

My best apologies for using stuff you claim is not better & I don't use

So WC, when did you tune your SC10 4x4 with the Center Diff? Inquiring minds would love to know!

Oh, I didn't know the rule was that they could advertise everywhere else on the internet except on rctech. They can go on selling aftermarket products then.

I guess no discussions allowed about anything other than AE and hot racing products on rcteck too? Everyone else is wrong.

You can run whatever you want, its your truck.
Others may be more open minded and want to try something that will improve the performance of the truck. There's more out there than what your flavor of the month is.
You keep finding the new best slipper but the ones that have tried the C-Diff haven't needed to change. They just watch as you search for something that will work as well as the C-Diff... but you don't know that's what your looking for since you haven't driven with it.