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Old 09-27-2013 | 06:23 PM
  #9796  
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Originally Posted by F18engineguy
Where did you buy them?
Direct from Exotek.
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Old 09-27-2013 | 06:45 PM
  #9797  
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Originally Posted by F18engineguy
Is this the new Reedy charger
That's a nice looking charger. Definitely would like to know some specs.
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Old 09-27-2013 | 07:03 PM
  #9798  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
The clearance from the shock/springs is no longer an issue whatsoever.
Yes for sure. I just found this with the Yaiba hubs as well. I will be getting the Exotek for my other B4.2...I wish they had released them about a month earlier, I wouldn't have gotten the Yaiba. Man I hate that red.
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Old 09-27-2013 | 08:58 PM
  #9799  
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Originally Posted by F18engineguy
Is this the new Reedy charger
Oh man... I just started selling stuff to pay for this, haha.
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Old 09-27-2013 | 10:13 PM
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looks kinda like the orion charger
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Old 09-27-2013 | 10:28 PM
  #9801  
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About the Exotek hubs. Does the ball stud come out the bottom? I am asking because when, not if, I break a ball stud I want to know the hub isn't ruined.
Blake
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Old 09-27-2013 | 10:38 PM
  #9802  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
looks kinda like the orion charger
Slap your self... in fact... next time I see you at ch or ht, I will do it for you... nothing like the orion charger...
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Old 09-28-2013 | 12:38 AM
  #9803  
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The hobbywing clones are not all 100% the same. The hardware indeed is, expect for some small changes like the position of the sensorport and so on, but the software is developed by the company that sells them which can make a big difference how they feel. Some castle ESCs which i drove for example have a lot more breakforce than the HWs. (given that you can hardly change the feel with better hardware, i assume that the HW has some kind of built-in Software-ABS that uses PWM like the punch-control) Some people also say that it has a lot more punch, but i couldn't test this because it wasn't my car. If someone developed a tool with which you could install every firnware you want (or even change things in the firmware by yourself) that would be the death for all expensive clones like the Orion.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 05:35 AM
  #9804  
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
Slap your self... in fact... next time I see you at ch or ht, I will do it for you... nothing like the orion charger...
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Old 09-28-2013 | 06:15 AM
  #9805  
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
Slap your self... in fact... next time I see you at ch or ht, I will do it for you... nothing like the orion charger...
lol, my wife does that plenty,
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Old 09-28-2013 | 07:00 AM
  #9806  
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Originally Posted by zeakemedia
About the Exotek hubs. Does the ball stud come out the bottom? I am asking because when, not if, I break a ball stud I want to know the hub isn't ruined.
Blake
Yes it does.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 07:25 AM
  #9807  
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Originally Posted by Cody227
The hobbywing clones are not all 100% the same. The hardware indeed is, expect for some small changes like the position of the sensorport and so on, but the software is developed by the company that sells them which can make a big difference how they feel. Some castle ESCs which i drove for example have a lot more breakforce than the HWs. (given that you can hardly change the feel with better hardware, i assume that the HW has some kind of built-in Software-ABS that uses PWM like the punch-control) Some people also say that it has a lot more punch, but i couldn't test this because it wasn't my car. If someone developed a tool with which you could install every firnware you want (or even change things in the firmware by yourself) that would be the death for all expensive clones like the Orion.
you can already do what you are talking about. I'm running HW software on a Speed Passion esc. All you need is a programming box that is capable of firmware updates (I use the HW 2-1 lcd box) If the programming box works on whatever ESC you have, you can update it with whatever software you like. At least that's been my experiences so far.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 10:05 AM
  #9808  
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what do you think of my creation?

front


back


it has a fourth shock mounting hole.
4 position holes for the camber link.
its going to be 3D printed from fiber glass reinforced nylon.

any suggestions?
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Old 09-28-2013 | 10:19 AM
  #9809  
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if you made a good one for the t4.sc10 with a 4th hole in the rear, you could probably sell a few.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 10:26 AM
  #9810  
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since the camber link height holes are static in your design, how far apart are they? (like bottom hole = zero washers, top hole = 2 washers)

I would prefer the standard camber link mounts like the AE towers. Also what about body/wing mount holes??

EDIT:

Also need some shaved clearance for the Big Bore shocks...
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