Have done as you ask , settle for the ballast in front instead , for smoother steering entering the turns & more on power steer & pull ...
Centering the battery helped even or balance the steering left to right .

Lighter can do good things for the performance , relieves the load the on the shocks and improves their control . Lighter performed much better then installing bigger shocks & springs for myself ..

less weight -> less inertia -> makes the suspension/car react much faster

I dont have any shorty batteries, yet but I think I'd be possible to center mount a stick pack hmm I'm going for as lite as possible bc I'm running 540 reedy motor.

Even if you do move a shorty forward & sideways, will still need some ballast up front .

You may be able to use a little less ballast , maybe 1/2 oz less ...


Also the PINK truck can't use less ballast unless I wish to go below the legal weight .

Someone has done this in the past. I don't recall what all they chopped out if anything, but it has been done and posted on the thread.


Tip: use the Center Diff for the best performance, no multiple pads required.

I've got the center diff, dual stage pistons, upgraded rear toe blocks installed (and VTX8/HD 4300 on the way buwaahaha). Are the Exotek rear carriers a worthwhile investment? Really more interested in durability at this point, unless there is a worthwhile handling upgrade left that is more than a marginal improvement (other than my driving).

I had no durability issues with the stock carriers. Unless you are wanting to play around with +8mm mod or something similar, I think you would be fine starting with what you have. The exotek carriers offer the most adjustability since you can add shims, etc.

Me personally, based on discussions with those who I trust and my own testing, I found that the +8mm mod where you could see benefit from having adjustability on the carrier for linkage height seemed to give me more traction, where as the portion of the change where you also raise the tower took it away. It made sense, as when running indoors without the +8mm mod, to control traction rolling I raised the inner ball stud up to 5 or 6mm from memory and the vehicle was pretty much dialed in the rear. And as discussed with someone who tried the mod in a higher traction condition, he found he didn't have the kind of rotation he had prior to it on the rear that he needed, especially for a tight technical track. I can't directly comment on high traction (carpet for instance) conditions though as I didn't get to test it out.

What conditions do you plan to race on? I have a setup for loose conditions I can send you if you like, it uses the parts you have other than the exotek chassis that I believe you don't have.

To be honest that motor is going to be stupid powerful in the sc10 4x4 especially if you don't have the exotek chassis.. Don't be surprised if you go to a 540 4 pole instead, especially as you get a bit better weight bias with a lighter motor in the rear.

Make sure you have excellent batteries too and use Punch control on the VTX8 to help save your batts.

Have you broken a rear hub ?

I just purchased these , has a tab to hang the C brace on , no broken ball studs to ruin the party .

The metal hubs are stiffer , less flex for improved handling..

Thanks Cain, I will be running on a couple of outdoor 1/8 tracks. Some very loose conditions sometimes on non-race/practice days. I'd really appreciate any setups you have.

I bought the VTX8 for the ease of adjustment and the PRO4 HD knowing I will be moving to a different chassis later. Running TP Pro Race stick packs so should be fine there.

I can make the Exotek hub carriers and front locker happen easy enough. Would get the Exotek chassis if I found the right deal. Don't want to invest in a new one at this point.

Thanks W.C., I haven't broken anything to date. Truck is pretty darn durable. If those are H.R. parts my personal preference is to go a different direction. In my experience the alloy they use is designed to a minimum standard.

not sure who HR is , can insure you the TOAD's fit and quality is great .
Have a couple team mates that have been using the hubs for months now .

HR=Hot Racing. If not the same, that's a good thing.

Have the part , just have not installed yet .

Bearing fit is good , no one has broken one i know of so they are durable and I like the black finish ....

Toadz is just an ebay reseller's name who watermarks his auction images. if you look at the actual auction Hot Racing is listed as brand of hub.

I really want it but it's €70 thats around 90 dollars I know it's probaly worth it but still..