Hi guys been a while since i posted in the thread.
Have not raced the 4wd SC10 yet. Still sits in the closet covered up.
Still has the copperhead 550 system in it, with the traxxas slash servo.
I lowered it for oval racing. It's first official race is unknown.
I plan on racing it this winter on the indoor oval track about 35-40 miles away.

I have been racing offroad, but not with this.

For med to high traction indoor clay

Try

*moving rear shock completely out board on the tower & inside on arm

rear shock

Emulsion ,1.2 piston, 30 w , rear yellow spring, no internal or external limiters, unscrew shock eye 1 turn

rear camber mod = 6 mm stud height , inside hole on tower.
rear hub stud mounted 2nd hole outside

Hub mounted middle on arm.

^^^^^^ What he said

Weighted the PINK beast last night ...


5.7 lbs in race trim , body & all included ....

Switching to these ...
a alloy rear hub & will flex less the the factory plastic hub ...

should help performance

*****other brand does not offer correct location & height for camber stud on hub ....

These look like the will give you better adjustability:

Cain, I put the Exotek Rear hubs on my T4.1 & SC10 to gain a bit of clearance between the big bore springs and camber link. They're high quality pieces. I already did the 8mm mod on my SC10 4x4, but have been eyeing these up as an option after the RCShox C-diff of course .

Those look identical to the hot racing hubs.
I have tried the hot racing and integy hubs... both had qa problems; bearing bores too small.
The exo-techs are the poop! I always end up back with the exo-techs.

Cool! One thing that may be a good suggestion from what I recall on the hubs is to make sure that you use a shim with good width to help support the ballstud and use a long enough ball stud.


As for the hubs WC posted, they do look like hot racing ones. Remember mixed reviews on them in the past, some loved them, others, not so much.

Don't no what you guyz R talkN about..

the bearings fit the TOAD just fine ...

I'm using the Toad because it does not have problems the EXo style hub's bring if you break or snap a camber stud ...

Toads hub tab cure this problem and allows you to keep the same camber link locations as the the kit's plastic hub as well ...
Keeping the same geometry is very important for me ...

Exotek's offering offers more adjustability.

Anyone here snap a proper length link in there carrier?

Somebody can't see very well ..

6 different camber location's with the Toad , only 3 on a EXO ..

Not to mention the stud locations on EXO are completely different from stock .

True but only two Roll center adjustments. changing link length does not have the same effect of raising or lowering roll center. To each his own though there is more than one way to skin a cat!

They just decided to allow 4wd SC at our local carpet track so so i will have some good high grip setups for Cdif trucks and otherwise!

Your right, you can't WC ... glad you acknowledged that.

You do know that by having the option to add or remove shims to raise or lower the ball stud height you have A LOT more levels of adjustment than the risers give right versus the fixed ball stud heights, right?

Thus far ?

Not convinced to change
my order I just made to TOAD ......

can cut out a graphite tab with as many holes as I what to raise or lower the stud although not gona as there is no need for ...: