Your Ace Hardware sucks. My local one has a complete RC grade section. They even sell the RC grade Pledge that if used to clean your car will take .5 seconds per lap off your time (no matter the size of the track)

my ace hardware has a track and sells traxxas....true story, lol.

train track...

nope, it even has jumps....I called the store and they told me it was a traxxas track. I think the girl though all rc cars were traxxas. she also informed me that they sell every rc car..... but yes, they have a track with jumps and a drivers stand. but it will only be in place for a year until the permits complete for the stores expansion. So local guy was looking for a piece of land to build a fun track and ace offered up the land for 1 year. I dont think they plan to race, just have kid come play with rc's on the track.

Really? That's neat. Which Ace?

the one in rita ranch. you know....BFE, lol. or 2 miles from my house.

Ah, yeah. That would be BFE. That's pretty neat though.

But...they aren't...they aren't...blue or orange/gold lol

are they low profile? I know the alum ones were and I think protek has LPF version also in 4-40. btw, protek is selling screws cheaper than ace right now or any kit maker. Plus their screw are high grade steel. the only product from protek I like, lol.

finally got a chance to due a rebuild on my B4.X

Added in the RPM A-arms.



First impression is that they are pretty rigid considering they are from RPM. reminds me of how the SC10 4x4 RPM a-arms are.

They are also pretty beefy, which is to be expected:









Thickness of the bulkheads are similar, with the RPM one not using the alloy hingepin brace.

Weight, the RPM stuff is heavier:





Here are pics of the a-arms mounted:










The part that I don't like are the screws used to retain the hingepins:



Considering the car uses all hex screws, it would have made sence to use a hex screw.

Other than that, I think these should really help with durability on the front end, and to boot it seems like there is less slop than what I remember on building new Bulkhead to a-arm assembly.

Cain, thats good info. but how "free are they with the shocks disconnected?

Isn't that something that you can control with proper shaving/sanding, to get a good, free fit? I prefer parts that are tight, that way I can fit them properly myself. You can always shave off plastic, it's usually more difficult to properly shim loose parts.

maybe. I prefer not too. sanding is fine, I prefer not to dill though

The a-arms moved very free at the inner hingepin point in my opinion.

The outer hingepin position though is more snug. It seemed to get more snug as you got deeper in the a-arm. I thought about reaming them but I am going to try them as is and see how it goes before doing that.

Hoping it loosens up without reaming.

Great pics, good info, thankyou.
Going to buy them at Amainhobbies with that labor day sale they have going on.