Tekno SCT410 Thread
He would need the Tekno Brake Kit:
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5206x.../#!prettyPhoto
Last I read the consensus on here was that mech brakes on a SCT were not legal so I dont think many are using them.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5206x.../#!prettyPhoto
Last I read the consensus on here was that mech brakes on a SCT were not legal so I dont think many are using them.
TKR5076 - center rear driveshaft
TKR5078 or TKR5077 - center front driveshaft
TKR5112 or TKR5112X - center diff outdrives
TKR5210 - center diff motor mount
TKR5075 - diff coupler (two of these)
It's basically the center driveline from the buggy.
Mechanical brakes are legal as far as I know. I've heard some people say they are not but I have yet to be shown any rule(s) stating otherwise. I ran mechanical brakes and a full clutch at the ROAR nats in PA and never had any issues with legality.
both kcobra and i run a 17t in our teknos with the hw 4700 and our motors run 150-170 in 90+deg weather.....
and congratz to kcobra for beating and taking the victory over a very fast sponsored driver in our HARC round 8 race.....
and congratz to kcobra for beating and taking the victory over a very fast sponsored driver in our HARC round 8 race.....
A ryobi cordless drill
Ooohhhh mechanical brakes would be so sweet outdoors. Brake bias front to rear and (IMO) more control in your brakes. More of a benefit on a outdoor track where traction is not like a high bite clay indoor track.
Cooler motor temps because your motor is not doing the braking.
Clutch is a benefit if you come from racing nitro and the freewheel effect of it is what your used to. Also on a outdoor track the turns are a little bigger in arc so you don't want your motor to act as a brake when you want to flow through the turn.
Just my take from racing nitro buggy for years, I would go to that setup if I raced outdoor regularly but the somewhat local tracks are all indoor high bite tracks that don't have lanes as wide as a driveway.
Cooler motor temps because your motor is not doing the braking.
Clutch is a benefit if you come from racing nitro and the freewheel effect of it is what your used to. Also on a outdoor track the turns are a little bigger in arc so you don't want your motor to act as a brake when you want to flow through the turn.
Just my take from racing nitro buggy for years, I would go to that setup if I raced outdoor regularly but the somewhat local tracks are all indoor high bite tracks that don't have lanes as wide as a driveway.
Here's my SCT. Running dual shorties. The longer Tekno straps are from a V3 MBX5T chassis I had lying around. I cut up a piece of scrap CF for the switch mount for the VTX8, its right behind the servo. Will have to see how it works, sort of worried it will be inundated with dirt/clay from the tire.
In addition to the brake kit you will need these parts to run brakes on the SC-
TKR5076 - center rear driveshaft
TKR5078 or TKR5077 - center front driveshaft
TKR5112 or TKR5112X - center diff outdrives
TKR5210 - center diff motor mount
TKR5075 - diff coupler (two of these)
It's basically the center driveline from the buggy.
Mechanical brakes are legal as far as I know. I've heard some people say they are not but I have yet to be shown any rule(s) stating otherwise. I ran mechanical brakes and a full clutch at the ROAR nats in PA and never had any issues with legality.
TKR5076 - center rear driveshaft
TKR5078 or TKR5077 - center front driveshaft
TKR5112 or TKR5112X - center diff outdrives
TKR5210 - center diff motor mount
TKR5075 - diff coupler (two of these)
It's basically the center driveline from the buggy.
Mechanical brakes are legal as far as I know. I've heard some people say they are not but I have yet to be shown any rule(s) stating otherwise. I ran mechanical brakes and a full clutch at the ROAR nats in PA and never had any issues with legality.
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Posts: 232
ive run the angled rear housing on mine for two race weekends now with the box stock ring and pinion with no issues. good upgrade over stock
Another interesting fact, I seem to have developed a allergy
to CA. About 2 hours after gluing up a set of tires I start sneezing and my throat gets really dry and I cough every 5 min. Lasts about 3 days, now I wear a respirator while I glue and if its is nice out I do it outside to try to avoid the fumes. Seems stupid and I am not typically the guy wearing safety glasses or worrying much about stuff like that but I highly recommend getting a respirator to use while gluing. Took forever to figure out what it was because it took 2 or 3 hours for symptoms to start, sure enough there are lots of reports on the internet of similar reactions.
to CA. About 2 hours after gluing up a set of tires I start sneezing and my throat gets really dry and I cough every 5 min. Lasts about 3 days, now I wear a respirator while I glue and if its is nice out I do it outside to try to avoid the fumes. Seems stupid and I am not typically the guy wearing safety glasses or worrying much about stuff like that but I highly recommend getting a respirator to use while gluing. Took forever to figure out what it was because it took 2 or 3 hours for symptoms to start, sure enough there are lots of reports on the internet of similar reactions.
I used to have no issues either, but ended up with the same after my last late night gluing session of a couple sets of SC tires (gold barcodes and orange barcodes) a couple months ago. It was getting a lot of the vapors at once when I spilled some that did it to me. Eyes watered and sinuses clogged up. Took me a week and a half to be able to breathe and not just cough all the time. Now, even just touching up a spot or two on a 10th scale buggy tire will make me go nuts if I'm not outside. I've managed to glue up a full set of 10th scale buggy tires in high wind outside though by doing one tire side at a time and taking a half hour between and only get like 5 minutes of eye watering after each one. I do my best to avoid it all now though, which sucks...but allows me to give slicks to people that might actually re-use tires. I really HATE that my next set of JC tires will have to have JC foams in them though, 'cause they SUCK in this thing (2 race days, might as well not have foam in the tire). I should really find myself a "tire guy"...might have to train my wife to do them outside for me...she ends up using them too anyway.
Now that I'm caught up on the thread. Last wed night when I first got back I had a fun race...a heavily modified (anything metal that can be on it was, except the chassis) Slash 4x4 ended up going backwards at speed on the straight after blowing a jump. Full blast into it head on...the Slash flipped but I just didn't need to brake for the end of the straight...I just kept on driving without any issue with the car. I thought for sure something would be bad so checked it over quite well after the race, but no problems. I love this thing!
Catching up on the thread, as I was gone for a while...and I thought this was worth replying to.
I used to have no issues either, but ended up with the same after my last late night gluing session of a couple sets of SC tires (gold barcodes and orange barcodes) a couple months ago. It was getting a lot of the vapors at once when I spilled some that did it to me. Eyes watered and sinuses clogged up. Took me a week and a half to be able to breathe and not just cough all the time. Now, even just touching up a spot or two on a 10th scale buggy tire will make me go nuts if I'm not outside. I've managed to glue up a full set of 10th scale buggy tires in high wind outside though by doing one tire side at a time and taking a half hour between and only get like 5 minutes of eye watering after each one. I do my best to avoid it all now though, which sucks...but allows me to give slicks to people that might actually re-use tires. I really HATE that my next set of JC tires will have to have JC foams in them though, 'cause they SUCK in this thing (2 race days, might as well not have foam in the tire). I should really find myself a "tire guy"...might have to train my wife to do them outside for me...she ends up using them too anyway.
I used to have no issues either, but ended up with the same after my last late night gluing session of a couple sets of SC tires (gold barcodes and orange barcodes) a couple months ago. It was getting a lot of the vapors at once when I spilled some that did it to me. Eyes watered and sinuses clogged up. Took me a week and a half to be able to breathe and not just cough all the time. Now, even just touching up a spot or two on a 10th scale buggy tire will make me go nuts if I'm not outside. I've managed to glue up a full set of 10th scale buggy tires in high wind outside though by doing one tire side at a time and taking a half hour between and only get like 5 minutes of eye watering after each one. I do my best to avoid it all now though, which sucks...but allows me to give slicks to people that might actually re-use tires. I really HATE that my next set of JC tires will have to have JC foams in them though, 'cause they SUCK in this thing (2 race days, might as well not have foam in the tire). I should really find myself a "tire guy"...might have to train my wife to do them outside for me...she ends up using them too anyway.

I also read that using a medium glue vs. a thin will be better because it doesnt flash off as fast. The Loctite glue is water thin maybe that is the difference in my case.
You can also try some over the counter allergy meds for when you glue, I did a bunch of reading when I suspected it was the glue and some people say it helps (not 100% but probably better than nothing).
Tekno...
Would the slash 17mm hub adapters work on this kit? Different bearing sizes maybe? Same barrel & cup size? If it did go together would it put me out too wide?
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1654-...-4x4-2wd-2pcs/
Would the slash 17mm hub adapters work on this kit? Different bearing sizes maybe? Same barrel & cup size? If it did go together would it put me out too wide?
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1654-...-4x4-2wd-2pcs/



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It'll be powered by a Pro4 HD 4300 and a RX8 Gen 2. This will be my first kit build. Any tips to make the build go smooth? I'm so stoked to get back in the game!