4LikesTeam Associated B4.2 Thread
08-26-2013 | 01:09 PM
#8731
did you use chapstick? That has become one of my favorite things to have in my pit box. If you ever own a tlr 22 series vehicle, chapstick will make your life great. Screws are so freaking tight. I might actually get a muscle from working on my kids car, lol.
08-26-2013 | 01:11 PM
#8732
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,167
From: Southern California
Or squeeze one drop of black grease down the ball cup thread before installing. Awesomeness.
08-26-2013 | 01:12 PM
#8733
When the cup is new, apply your favorite grease (I use black thrust grease) to the threads on the link & screw it completely, 100% into the cup. Then back it all the way off the link. Wipe it off & install to desired length. I typically do this with a drill @ low speed. You shouldn't ever have that problem again. You should do this with any cup, not just RPM.
08-26-2013 | 01:17 PM
#8735
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 73
From: Right Coast
I always waste my extra stealth diff lube on the threads
08-26-2013 | 01:21 PM
#8736
Tech Elite
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,786
From: Groveland, FL
Hideeho
While were talking about new products failing...
I installed a full set of the JC ball cups, including the angles ones to clear the rear shocks. I had heard they popped on easily, so I wasn't terribly surprised when they were. I used the square ones on the outside rear camber links & both inside & outside front camber links. I used the smaller round ones on the steering links. I also installed the short ones for the steering link. The plastic seems to be a rather hard (but not brittle) plastic. They looked good & had minimal flashing from the casting process.I did this install in the morning of a race day, so I didnt have time to run it before the 1st qualifier.
Our current layout has a jump onto a table top which forces a flat landing. The table top surface is on the same level as the top of the jump, which doesn't throw you too high, & is about 5'-6' in the air. If I land it slightly nose down I don't bottom even though it is a flat landing. In other words it's a pretty easy jump. Before the 1st heat I go out to run a few warm up laps & to make sure everything worked. After running 3 or 4 laps I was on comming back to the start line to get ready to start the qualifier & landed completely flat for the 1st time. To my surprise the car bottoms HARD & stays there. When the marshal picks it up BOTH rear wheels flop out. Both rear inner ball cups (the angled ones) had popped off. I put them back on (after asking for a minutes grace
) & proccede with the race. During the race I popped 2 more ball cups, both rear inner cups.
Needless to say, by the 2nd heat I had RPM cups back on the car. Enough said!
While were talking about new products failing...
I installed a full set of the JC ball cups, including the angles ones to clear the rear shocks. I had heard they popped on easily, so I wasn't terribly surprised when they were. I used the square ones on the outside rear camber links & both inside & outside front camber links. I used the smaller round ones on the steering links. I also installed the short ones for the steering link. The plastic seems to be a rather hard (but not brittle) plastic. They looked good & had minimal flashing from the casting process.I did this install in the morning of a race day, so I didnt have time to run it before the 1st qualifier.
Our current layout has a jump onto a table top which forces a flat landing. The table top surface is on the same level as the top of the jump, which doesn't throw you too high, & is about 5'-6' in the air. If I land it slightly nose down I don't bottom even though it is a flat landing. In other words it's a pretty easy jump. Before the 1st heat I go out to run a few warm up laps & to make sure everything worked. After running 3 or 4 laps I was on comming back to the start line to get ready to start the qualifier & landed completely flat for the 1st time. To my surprise the car bottoms HARD & stays there. When the marshal picks it up BOTH rear wheels flop out. Both rear inner ball cups (the angled ones) had popped off. I put them back on (after asking for a minutes grace
) & proccede with the race. During the race I popped 2 more ball cups, both rear inner cups.Needless to say, by the 2nd heat I had RPM cups back on the car. Enough said!
Here is a quote from the website and press release "Included is an angled version of the Wedge which can be used on the outside of the rear camber link for increased clearance on the rear wheel"
Website update.
Sorry you had some issues with the inner ballcups popping off, but maybe give them another try with the normal straight ones inside.
Last edited by PW; 08-26-2013 at 01:56 PM.
08-26-2013 | 01:22 PM
#8737
I think I read about it on the durango forums where the kits cups are stupid hard to get on. I tried it recently on a brand new pair of tlr22 rear arms and the screw went it like it was butta.
08-26-2013 | 01:24 PM
#8738
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
I put ae black grease on the threads and screwed them in and out multiple times with a drill, but nothing helped. Btw. I use the longest rpm cups available for the b4 because another driver said i should use the longest i could get and then cut them to the length i want. They fitted, so i didn't cut them, but maybe that's the problem.
08-26-2013 | 01:24 PM
#8739
Hideeho
Reply from Paul over on the JC thread...
Unfortunately the angled ballcups aren't designed for the inner rears and that is most likely the issue. They are designed for the outer rear to give extra clearance for the rear wheels, not for BB clearance.
Here is a quote from the website and press release "Included is an angled version of the Wedge which can be used on the outside of the rear camber link for increased clearance on the rear wheel and also to the inside which increases clearance around big bore shock springs."
Sorry you had some issues with the inner ballcups popping off, but I swear by these ballcups and won't be changing back.
__________________
Paul Wynn
JConcepts - Team Associated - LRP - Reedy - Savox - TSR Products - MIP - 92zero Designs
P1 Brand - "If it's only for fun; then take out the transponder?!"
What I get out of it is I put the angled cups on the wrong end. I will give them another try installed correctly to see how they do, BUT NOT ON RACE DAY
!
Reply from Paul over on the JC thread...
Unfortunately the angled ballcups aren't designed for the inner rears and that is most likely the issue. They are designed for the outer rear to give extra clearance for the rear wheels, not for BB clearance.
Here is a quote from the website and press release "Included is an angled version of the Wedge which can be used on the outside of the rear camber link for increased clearance on the rear wheel and also to the inside which increases clearance around big bore shock springs."
Sorry you had some issues with the inner ballcups popping off, but I swear by these ballcups and won't be changing back.
__________________
Paul Wynn
JConcepts - Team Associated - LRP - Reedy - Savox - TSR Products - MIP - 92zero Designs
P1 Brand - "If it's only for fun; then take out the transponder?!"
What I get out of it is I put the angled cups on the wrong end. I will give them another try installed correctly to see how they do, BUT NOT ON RACE DAY
!
08-26-2013 | 01:24 PM
#8740
Unfortunately the angled ballcups aren't designed for the inner rears and that is most likely the issue. They are designed for the outer rear to give extra clearance for the rear wheels, not for BB clearance. They will hit the dust-cover under compression and cause problems.
Here is a quote from the website and press release "Included is an angled version of the Wedge which can be used on the outside of the rear camber link for increased clearance on the rear wheel and also to the inside which increases clearance around big bore shock springs."
Sorry you had some issues with the inner ballcups popping off, but maybe give them another try with the normal straight ones inside.
Here is a quote from the website and press release "Included is an angled version of the Wedge which can be used on the outside of the rear camber link for increased clearance on the rear wheel and also to the inside which increases clearance around big bore shock springs."
Sorry you had some issues with the inner ballcups popping off, but maybe give them another try with the normal straight ones inside.
08-26-2013 | 01:26 PM
#8742
Tech Elite
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,786
From: Groveland, FL
08-26-2013 | 01:27 PM
#8744
I put ae black grease on the threads and screwed them in and out multiple times with a drill, but nothing helped. Btw. I use the longest rpm cups available for the b4 because another driver said i should use the longest i could get and then cut them to the length i want. They fitted, so i didn't cut them, but maybe that's the problem.
08-26-2013 | 01:28 PM
#8745