Do the "gullwing" arms make a difference in the handling of the truck? If I get them for my non .2 SC10 do I need to get the shock tower as well?

Yes, you do need the shock tower and body mount. I just installed them on my sc10 not to long ago so I dont have enough experience with them to tell you they made a difference. There are plenty of post on here about them so just do a little searchn. Most people seam to think they help

Thanks! I'm wanting to get rid of my steering slop and get a better holding/quicker servo. I'm assuming that the aluminum bellcrank would really help with that, but any suggestions on a good servo?

Im using a savox 1257tg, and love it...super super fast...I have seen a lot of these and 1258tg. The 1257 is is quicker but the 1258 is stronger. There both pretty comparable with each other. I would do
1257 for 2wd and the 1258 for a 4wd. I run the ae alum bellcrank but think most people like the avid bellcrank. Also check out the new jc carbon fiber steering rack. It is damn sweet but on back order though everywhere.

Well I have never seen em used before, at any of either of the tracks I race at!! So I can't truly tell u anything about them!

I just learned they(jconcepts) even made them. From the things I have heard, people seem to like them. I was at lhs a bit ago and they were on boxing a jc box they just got in, they let me look through it and they had some in there. The ballcups have a small hole on the cup section for easier removal. Think they are like twice as much as the rpms though.

Lunar rc also makes a very nice steering rack. Theres is made out of aluminum and has bearing pivots also. It took a lot of the slop out of my steering.

Does anyone know what is the best body is to race on my sc10.2

Any of the high-flow units are fine.

The JC High Flow is the widest and generally the most hard core performance shell.

The PL Raptor is also a solid design.

Flip a coin and go with the styling you like best. The PL Raptor is faintly narrower, which only matters when running the +3 wheels.

There are also twice as many ball cups included in the package, enough to do two cars. They are very high quality ball cups.

Think there was two different types that jc had, a rib and a wedge. Which one did you like better and why?

Thanks a lot for the help

Well IMO I don't want them coming off easier!! Lol

The hole on the top of the ball cup is not to help you remove the ballcup itself. It is so you have access to the hex on the ballstud. In theory any time you pop a ballcup off it makes it weaker. This design avoids this thus keeping the ballcup strong and still lets you remove the ballstud to add or remove washers for tuning.

That auction I won just came in today
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SC10-TIRES-W...vip=true&rt=nc

Some are hex drive, which bolt up fine to my sc10rs, alot are the older pin and bearing type. I take responsibility in knowing that. I have the mindset that I will just unglue alot of the tires and throw them on hex wheels.

But in the mean time For the pin type wheels, I think I can just pull the hex adapter off the rear and stick them on correct?