shelf
shorty battery
0 up to 50 gram ballast in rear tray
any thing from AVID

Hey guys which Avid performance parts in your opinion helps the 4.2 the most?

I know all of the Avid gear is amazing but which part of the buggy is the weakest and need the attention first for 17,5 buggy?

Is it the slipper or the center motor plate or maybe something else?


I agree with the one post one or two pages back.....
Avid and AE should team up for the B5 buggy or what ever their going to call it.

If they could keep the price in the low $300 range I'd be all over it.....!!!
Only if they keep it a rear motor car.

First and foremost, bearings. This is one of the cheapest and most effective upgrades to give your car. Avid also makes it super easy to get this done by allowing you to build your own bearing kit and select what you do and don't want.

Secondly, the Avid Steering Rack is a great update. Gives your car a more direct steering feel when you input from the radio. I feel this is almost a necessity.

Third, I would definitely look at their new ESC shelf they offer for the car. A lot of people are going to the centerline setup with the electronics and theirs offers you some room for adjusting.

The motor centering kit would also be something to look into as well if you are thinking of running the centerline setup or even without it.

Hope this helps, can't go wrong with any Avid products.

0 to 50 grams additional? plus the FT ballast in the rear pivot block?

I ran the shelf, and my car was just flat ill.

What's the difference in putting the speedo down in the tray?

Speedo had some trouble so will be a couple weeks before I can run again I guess, but the last couple weeks I hated the shelf.

Although my valving in my shocks seems off, according to what I read here.

I would say the Triad. It's more consistent and more importantly, it lighter. Less rotating mass so for 17.5 that will mean faster acceleration. Second item would be motor centering kit. Will correct side to side balance so the car drives and rotates more evenly and it comes with an aluminum topshaft which will further reduce rotating mass. Third will be Avid bearings. The kit bearings are crap so ditch them and use the Avid bearings in Revolution style.

I know we all love new things, I even have the new 22 2.0 on order to test out, but this just came in through the wire.

I ran my B4.2 last night, and it still rocked.

That is all.

I had a 22 and it drove well for the most part (I had every damn high-end upgrade) but I found tunability was a bit limited. Got a 4.2 and instantly I was able to turn laps upwards of 4-seconds faster. The 4.2, for all of it's flaws in fit and finish is simply all kinds of right, and is for me so much easier to drive. My son's RB5 SP2 is about as easy to drive as my 4.2.

I sincerely hope Associated doesn't conform to the current trend of making the narrowest chassis possible that will cramp the space and limit fine tune adjustability. I think the RB6 is about as narrow as it should get but a bit wider would be my preference, AND NO DAMN ALLOY CHASSIS!!!

Go Carbon Fiber all the way!!!

alum bends. At least the composites hold shape. When I ran 8th scale tweaked chassis sucked and were never cheap. My last 22, had a warped chassis also. When I replaced the rear bulk head, I had to flex the chassis to get the holes to line up. So I sold the car as opposed to buying a new chassis. The new 22 2.0 is "supposed" to address all of the issues and make it consistent and fast, time will tell. I actually liked the feel of the rb6, but I really disliked the esc location. Was hard to replace sensor wires without yanking the esc.

had a great race lastnight with my car! came in 3rd behind some fast guys that i will probably never beat and almost lapped everyone else. got my fastest lap yet on this layout too. the car was so dialed. my rb6 has been collecting dust on my desk and it will continue to do so. i am just faster with this car

nice job. I am still trying to dial my b4 in. maybe this weekend it will be good. Works great indoors, just cant get it right outdoors.

Krom

yes , some add extra ballast for stability & traction in the tray including the team weight by transmission & 1/4 oz in each rear corner of chassis.

Difference between the shelf and tray is very small . ESC on the shelf allows the car to roll a little more and feels more reactive .

Well i'm old so I need the less reactive set up LOL.

I couldn't get any side bite (rear) with the shelf, spin it out at will, car felt real good fwd bite wise. Which begs my next question, how many shock shims you running? I now between 1 and 3 generally in the front, and 1 or 2 in the rear.

I think I had 2 front, 1 rear with the shelf.

Gonna overhaul the car, diff, shocks, and set up, and try it with the speedo in the tray, before I go back to the std mount.

Thanks, Krom.

Krom

Will be going back to the shelf soon , just so I can use full size battery's....

Wanted to try both ways and decide after what I like .

Should not be able to blame the shelf for any traction issues IMO.

You could switch my ride back & forth and I probably would
not notice the switch .

Most use 3 x .030 in front & 2 x .030 in the rear for shock limiter.

what is your shock package? With 1.6's, 30wt oil and white springs, mine was undrivable. I went to green springs and it was better. I felt the 1.4'sx3 gave me the most plush feel with enough pack and low speed dampening.

do you feel the 1.4 x 3 s are better than say the avid 1.5 x 1.1 s?