2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
08-12-2013 | 06:40 PM
#8447
08-12-2013 | 06:56 PM
#8448
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
From: Pennsylvania
great. Also, as far as the setup sheets go. I am not that "computer Smart" to add additional boxes for the hd arms. I don't know if the original creator would have to do it or not.
08-12-2013 | 07:03 PM
#8449
Smooth throttle finger really helps keep center diff temps down. Ballooning the front tires constantly is a dead giveaway that you are on your way to a hot diff. I try to be careful with diff fluids. I run just thick enough that my front tires do not balloon drastically on power and i can make all of the key jumps. I find a line on the track that allows me to carry as much cornerspeed as possible so i dont need to run crazy thick oils in the center. Real thick in the center will even out front and rear drive bias but your car will want to always square up on power and hurt on power steering.Getting a good balance between 5k and 10k dependant on layout and level of traction will be ideal. This is what I have experienced at every track i have raced at. 5-7-3 has been my tried and true.
Last edited by protc3; 08-12-2013 at 07:23 PM.
08-12-2013 | 07:04 PM
#8450
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 410
From: North East Ohio
I thought the same thing. I put any more shim and its gonna grind. I don't have a lot of backlash. Its as tight as i can get it without grinding or binding. What would be the proper amount of backlash?
08-12-2013 | 07:09 PM
#8451
I add shims until there is a little binding, then I remove that shim and put it on the other side. I usually end up with one shim on each side. You checked bearings and made sure couplers were on tight (but not too tight up against the bearing)?
08-12-2013 | 07:28 PM
#8452
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,737
Ill look at my car and get a sheet together. Made changes as I went. First time in the track it seemed loose in power so made changes where I could drive punched cause to me rolling the throttle is for 2 wheel! Lol. Got it good. Ran nitro buggy also which is my normal class and had to be able to drive them the same.
Ine thing is ended with 10 10 5 in diffs and 40f 30r in shocks with 1.3 8 hole pistons. Will get links and hingepins in a sheet for you.
Ine thing is ended with 10 10 5 in diffs and 40f 30r in shocks with 1.3 8 hole pistons. Will get links and hingepins in a sheet for you.
08-12-2013 | 07:44 PM
#8453
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
From: Pennsylvania
Ill look at my car and get a sheet together. Made changes as I went. First time in the track it seemed loose in power so made changes where I could drive punched cause to me rolling the throttle is for 2 wheel! Lol. Got it good. Ran nitro buggy also which is my normal class and had to be able to drive them the same.
Ine thing is ended with 10 10 5 in diffs and 40f 30r in shocks with 1.3 8 hole pistons. Will get links and hingepins in a sheet for you.
Ine thing is ended with 10 10 5 in diffs and 40f 30r in shocks with 1.3 8 hole pistons. Will get links and hingepins in a sheet for you.
08-13-2013 | 03:27 AM
#8455
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 410
From: North East Ohio
It could be that the blukhead is cracked or needs to be replaced, but I think you listed that already. If it isn't one of those two things, it'll be hard to diagnose without being there.
I add shims until there is a little binding, then I remove that shim and put it on the other side. I usually end up with one shim on each side. You checked bearings and made sure couplers were on tight (but not too tight up against the bearing)?
I add shims until there is a little binding, then I remove that shim and put it on the other side. I usually end up with one shim on each side. You checked bearings and made sure couplers were on tight (but not too tight up against the bearing)?
thanks for your help tho
08-13-2013 | 05:57 AM
#8457
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,298
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Ya, I'm dumbfounded. I find nothing wrong with this. Granted its a little worn out but my out drives, drive shafts, pins, and bearing, they are all good. I replaced my pinions about a month ago. When i changed diff fluid last week i took a look at them, minimal and even wear. I'm sure im missing something, something very small because it doesn't happen every single time. I'm gonna run it till it breaks....probably be in the "A" when finally get up front, 1 second left, 15 feet from the line.lol atleast ill know what to fix
thanks for your help tho
thanks for your help tho
Diff planetary gears in good shape?
Mesh in the gearbox good?
08-13-2013 | 06:21 AM
#8458
Man ......I just made an order too! I would have loved to added the 2 new springs to the order. Danny...any way to include them if you did not ship the order yet? Oop`s--------Just checked and my order already shipped out..........I`m happy with the fast shipping, you guys are on the ball!
These fluids should give you a little more rear grip with less turn in...........
Paul
w_dupree
I want to try 15/20k/10k for grins. Any thoughts on how it may drive like that?
I want to try 15/20k/10k for grins. Any thoughts on how it may drive like that?
Paul
08-13-2013 | 08:16 AM
#8459
I ran a medium outdoor this weekend. Had my temp gun and checked it after 10 minutes. I run 7/10/3. My diff was HOT and the out drives...I finger touched them, mistake.160-170. I never really noticed it but i don't think it will be an issue. I have a first run kit and haven't missed a week with it. I rebuild my diff the same every month. I'm still running on the same center. I don't like it knowing that they get that hot but I'm still running. On another note.
When I get a section were i can get on it sooner or later i have to check my brakes up...I get a semi loud snap. Ive looked everywhere for the problem and i cant find it. Iv'e replaced my pinion gears, out drives, cvd, spur, diff housing bearing, diff bearings, front diff housing. Is this chassis slap when i hit my brakes? I dont think it is. Any ideas?
When I get a section were i can get on it sooner or later i have to check my brakes up...I get a semi loud snap. Ive looked everywhere for the problem and i cant find it. Iv'e replaced my pinion gears, out drives, cvd, spur, diff housing bearing, diff bearings, front diff housing. Is this chassis slap when i hit my brakes? I dont think it is. Any ideas?
Ya, I'm dumbfounded. I find nothing wrong with this. Granted its a little worn out but my out drives, drive shafts, pins, and bearing, they are all good. I replaced my pinions about a month ago. When i changed diff fluid last week i took a look at them, minimal and even wear. I'm sure im missing something, something very small because it doesn't happen every single time. I'm gonna run it till it breaks....probably be in the "A" when finally get up front, 1 second left, 15 feet from the line.lol atleast ill know what to fix
thanks for your help tho
thanks for your help tho
Make sure that the coupler is shimmed right and inspect the rear pinion shaft's lip to see if it is wearing and allowing the coupler to move.
