Tekno SCT410 Thread
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I'm running Hobby People 5000mah 35C batteries right now with my voltage cutoff at 3.2v per cell. These batteries are way better than most people think. When I charge them up from 3.2v per cell I can put around 5600-5700 mah back into them. I can get about 12-14 mins of run time non stop with the 4300 HD. I was only getting about 10-12 mins with the pro4 4600kv. Don't worry, I'm investing in some SMC 7200 70C packs as soon as they get more in stock.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
This is the car:
http://www.casterracingparts.com/ind...product_id=253
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...305ffb60291e52
Sorry to go off topic... Love reading various vehicle threads and try to answer generic questions if possible.
It is legal to run, but its not a Mugen. Its a Caster which is based on the MBX5. Roar rules for 4wd used to be that it had to be a factory available kit, but a few people petitioned it. Personally I dont agree that they should be legal. Last year in our state series the rules clearly stated "No 17mm hubs allowed on vehicles". But since 3 of the members on our series committe are sponsored Mugen drivers, that rule went away once the MSC came out.
I thank that's a caster raptor. It comes in a box just like are tekno's . I run against one just about every other weekend I beat him he beats me. The more the merrier.
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Posts: 112
Just got my new truck running last week after being gone from the hobby for twenty years. Very excited.
I built a track in my back yard to practice. Straight away is 105 ft. into a 90 degree left hand turn. It causes the inside of the wheel to rub on the drive hub. This caused my SCTE rim (drivers side rear) to literally drill out where the nut holds the wheel on. I'm not kidding.
Put a new wheel in there trimmed it back a lot and this time is stripped out, circular, the hex and the new wheel is shot.
I see Proline F11's and the AKA's are a good alternative however this is becoming an expensive experiment. The tire I reset on the new rim was glued on there extremely well the SECOND time because it was a little worse for wear. Now I have to purchase new wheels and tires.
Why are my rims moving that much to begin with and why are the tolerances so close?
Give my wallet a break and please make some recommendations.
-S
I built a track in my back yard to practice. Straight away is 105 ft. into a 90 degree left hand turn. It causes the inside of the wheel to rub on the drive hub. This caused my SCTE rim (drivers side rear) to literally drill out where the nut holds the wheel on. I'm not kidding.
Put a new wheel in there trimmed it back a lot and this time is stripped out, circular, the hex and the new wheel is shot.
I see Proline F11's and the AKA's are a good alternative however this is becoming an expensive experiment. The tire I reset on the new rim was glued on there extremely well the SECOND time because it was a little worse for wear. Now I have to purchase new wheels and tires.
Why are my rims moving that much to begin with and why are the tolerances so close?
Give my wallet a break and please make some recommendations.
-S
Last edited by Victory; 08-07-2013 at 05:48 PM.
Just got my new truck running last week after being going from the hobby after twenty years. Very excited.
I built a track in my back yard to practice. Straight away is 105 ft. into a 90 degree left hand turn. It causes the inside of the wheel to rub on the drive hub. This caused my SCTE rim (drivers side rear) to literally drill out where the nut holds the wheel on. I'm not kidding.
Put a new wheel in there trimmed it back a lot and this time is stripped out, circular, the hex and the new wheel is shot.
I see Proline F11's and the AKA's are a good alternative however this is becoming an expensive experiment. The tire I reset on the new rim was glued on there extremely well the SECOND time because it was a little worse for wear. Now I have to purchase new wheels and tires.
Why are my rims moving that much to begin with and why are the tolerances so close?
Give my wallet a break and please make some recommendations.
-S
I built a track in my back yard to practice. Straight away is 105 ft. into a 90 degree left hand turn. It causes the inside of the wheel to rub on the drive hub. This caused my SCTE rim (drivers side rear) to literally drill out where the nut holds the wheel on. I'm not kidding.
Put a new wheel in there trimmed it back a lot and this time is stripped out, circular, the hex and the new wheel is shot.
I see Proline F11's and the AKA's are a good alternative however this is becoming an expensive experiment. The tire I reset on the new rim was glued on there extremely well the SECOND time because it was a little worse for wear. Now I have to purchase new wheels and tires.
Why are my rims moving that much to begin with and why are the tolerances so close?
Give my wallet a break and please make some recommendations.
-S
Ah now I remember.
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From: Columbus Ohio
so what is the final verdict on the tekno carbon towers? i picked up a set and am a little hesitant to put them on because some guys have said they snapped them off. the front 5mm seems pretty stout. but the rear 4mm tower has way more flex than the stock tower and i could see it being an issue. If you had them in your hand would you install them on your rig?
Last edited by BSCFlash; 08-07-2013 at 06:51 PM.
Quick question guys.. My limiter is set at the what seems normal 35%.. I would like to clear the triple at my local track.. So if I turn up my limiter to say %50 would that give me enough punch to do it? My current set up is a 4300Pro4HD RX8Gen2 15T pinion.. SMC 6500 .. I've only seen one other short course make the triple all the e buggies and nitro 8th scale guys clear it with no problem if there not scared...



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