Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno SCT410 Thread >

Tekno SCT410 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree17Likes

Tekno SCT410 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-05-2013 | 10:27 PM
  #13006  
Mizchief's Avatar
Tech Elite
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Default

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
IMO, there is literally no reason to buy nano-tech batteries from hong kong or even the us warehouse for more money than SMC 6500/70C batteries cost. the SMC's are better batteries sold by a guy who will stand behind them.

i had some nano's and there were nice, punchy batteries when they were new, but they quickly lost their punch (started dropping off after 20-30 cycles).
That's been my experience with nano's in general as well.
Mizchief is offline  
Old 08-05-2013 | 10:31 PM
  #13007  
suby723's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,379
From: Spring Hill Tennessee
Default

Nanos are absolute junk. They didnt last me more then 2 months before puffing the casing apart. I am a power hungry trigger happy freak though. And yes they where balanced all the time.
suby723 is offline  
Old 08-05-2013 | 10:36 PM
  #13008  
HickamHatch's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 511
Default

Well this sucks. Got everything hooked up and went to set the forward, neutral, and brake trigger and after I set it the esc started smoking. Turned it off then turned it back on and the motor spun for a split second and then nothing. The fan stopped working as well and the esc gets warm. Guess I have to send it back to hobby wing now. At least I got to see the driveline move for a split second!!!
HickamHatch is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 12:50 AM
  #13009  
Tech Rookie
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 19
Default

Originally Posted by flamehothead
Does anyone have trouble with wheel nuts coming loose? Everytime I come to the pits I find at least one wheel loose. Now I have three rounded wheel hexes but I have an aluminum set on the way. I want to get this taken care of because aluminum hexes will destroy the wheels. I've tried jconcepts nuts and they didn't work. I've also tried Loctite and nothing. Any help would be very much app

reciated.
. The pin that keeps the Hex hub from spinning is probably broken,
Roodster is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 04:56 AM
  #13010  
snwchris's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,776
From: SE Wisconsin
Default

Originally Posted by HickamHatch
Well this sucks. Got everything hooked up and went to set the forward, neutral, and brake trigger and after I set it the esc started smoking. Turned it off then turned it back on and the motor spun for a split second and then nothing. The fan stopped working as well and the esc gets warm. Guess I have to send it back to hobby wing now. At least I got to see the driveline move for a split second!!!
Dam, that sucks... What HW ESC?? All the wires were solder to correct locations?? A-A, B-B & C-C
snwchris is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 06:11 AM
  #13011  
Mizchief's Avatar
Tech Elite
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Default

Originally Posted by HickamHatch
Well this sucks. Got everything hooked up and went to set the forward, neutral, and brake trigger and after I set it the esc started smoking. Turned it off then turned it back on and the motor spun for a split second and then nothing. The fan stopped working as well and the esc gets warm. Guess I have to send it back to hobby wing now. At least I got to see the driveline move for a split second!!!
Once it starts to smoke it's done, would not try to turn it on again, or might risk messing up something else. Sounds like a short in the system somewhere.
Mizchief is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 06:16 AM
  #13012  
symmetricon's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,882
From: houston
Default

Originally Posted by suby723
Nanos are absolute junk. They didnt last me more then 2 months before puffing the casing apart. I am a power hungry trigger happy freak though. And yes they where balanced all the time.
I agree, and that was my experience with them too. They are good for a month or two and then they go downhill quick.... I just bought two Trinity Sting 7200mah pack. They better be good for 270$! Lol
symmetricon is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 07:17 AM
  #13013  
sramos's Avatar
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 891
From: ohio
Default

Originally Posted by symmetricon
I agree, and that was my experience with them too. They are good for a month or two and then they go downhill quick.... I just bought two Trinity Sting 7200mah pack. They better be good for 270$! Lol
They are trust me! Just do the whole break in thing, balance, drive for about 5min, balance, drive for about 5 min, repeat a couple more times. This may not be needed but that's how I always do my battery's. never really let them get below 3.8v per cell for the first few runs. They seem to last longer with no problems, no bad cells, no puffing etc. this might be something you know, or do, or just think I'm crazy lol!!
sramos is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 07:21 AM
  #13014  
Mizchief's Avatar
Tech Elite
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Default

I see two stragegies with batteries. Buy good ones and baby them: Do all the break in stuff, set a high cutoff, set to a storage charge after every race etc. Or buy cheap ones and just rag them out and replace often.
Mizchief is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 07:26 AM
  #13015  
symmetricon's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,882
From: houston
Default

Originally Posted by sramos
They are trust me! Just do the whole break in thing, balance, drive for about 5min, balance, drive for about 5 min, repeat a couple more times. This may not be needed but that's how I always do my battery's. never really let them get below 3.8v per cell for the first few runs. They seem to last longer with no problems, no bad cells, no puffing etc. this might be something you know, or do, or just think I'm crazy lol!!
I will try that. I have never tried breaking in a battery so why not. I do know that t
he HW SCT pro/4700 will eat all but the most stout batteries. Since they are trinity packs I am confident that they will be great!
symmetricon is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 07:42 AM
  #13016  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 796
Default

I have a couple SMC 7200 packs I absolutely love. However I have actually put about 30 cycles through one of those Amain 30c 5000 Eco Power packs in my SCT410 with zero issues. No puffing, no power fade, nothing. I guess they are either really good/cheap packs or I am just lucky. I run the HW SCT Pro ESC and HW 4700.
AlderBoy is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 07:43 AM
  #13017  
HickamHatch's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 511
Default

Originally Posted by snwchris
Dam, that sucks... What HW ESC?? All the wires were solder to correct locations?? A-A, B-B & C-C
120a v2.1

Yes, I double checked all the wires before turning everything on. And even after I saw smoke before turning it back on.

Only reason I tried turning it back on is because I thought it was just the fan that smoked since it stopped working at the same time
HickamHatch is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 07:48 AM
  #13018  
skengines's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (227)
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,402
From: SoCal
Default

Protek packs.

I run these packs only and if there is a problem with them they will replace it free of charge within 90 days.
skengines is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 07:48 AM
  #13019  
lala4fire's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 278
From: Meridian, Idaho
Default New to 4x4 short coarse

Well I pulled the trigger and bought this truck and am stoked to start building it and racing a new class Most all the guys that race these vehicles run 2 cell and 4600 kv motors. They are always coming off complaining how hot their motors get and how their puffing batteries and such. The track is a small indoor clay/dirt mix with med. traction. So I was thinking of running a takin RX8 gen2 with a 3000 kv pro 4 hd on 3 cell and wanted to know if this would be the way to go to keep thing running cool and still have the power to try and beat these guys My local track does not regulate cell count. Any advise would be great and hope to one day be able to give constructive tuning input for this tread.
lala4fire is offline  
Old 08-06-2013 | 08:05 AM
  #13020  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
Default

Originally Posted by lala4fire
Well I pulled the trigger and bought this truck and am stoked to start building it and racing a new class Most all the guys that race these vehicles run 2 cell and 4600 kv motors. They are always coming off complaining how hot their motors get and how their puffing batteries and such. The track is a small indoor clay/dirt mix with med. traction. So I was thinking of running a takin RX8 gen2 with a 3000 kv pro 4 hd on 3 cell and wanted to know if this would be the way to go to keep thing running cool and still have the power to try and beat these guys My local track does not regulate cell count. Any advise would be great and hope to one day be able to give constructive tuning input for this tread.
If I had no regulated cell count, then I would go 4S with a 3674 can, maybe something between 2200kV to 2600kV, then have all the power I needed and could easily run a 15 min main with a 3300mAh pack to boot

I've been running this pack with a 3674-1900kV Tacon in my Hyper 10TT and it never breaks a sweat with well over 20 min run times:
http://www.valuehobby.com/power-syst...300mah-4s.html
billdelong is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.