Thank you DS Motorsport. I use for meter the temp Exergen DX501;

A few days ago I bought the combo you suggested in this post, I have no doubt if C or S version right now, I do not know if it's the SPEC 2013 or not, I know it's the MH version I I have been in contact with Alexander Hagberg and advised me to use the new exhaust (made by HIPEX) but do not know where I can buy it.

I would need to know the specific version, I think it is C but I'm not entirely sure

Thank you for your attention, I hope you can tell me more about the performance of these engines on track and I have no reference about these

After 3 great races and 1.5 gallons the engine is tested -- I love this GT3-C.

I showed before pics and here are pics now. I have only changed the conrod. It is running better than ever. Engine love!

I see some detonation..

,run too hot

Just carbon from some bad fuel I had. Not detonation.

Don't be jealous of my engine now!

How will these engines? I expect you to write a comment, I recently was talking to Bertram Kessler and com Alexander Hagberg and I have said that the new exhaust is what is giving better results, I just bought it and I came soon.

Mr Kessler also told me some settings for the engine to run a little more, and I practice in an area at sea level and I have to make a specific adjustment that Mr Kessler told me the engine combustion chamber

im getting mine back from MH he did maintenance for me i have the S version

I have Orcan GT3 C MH version

which pipe do you mean?and what shim setting did they recoment?

I have bought the exhaust Orcan OA1911, recommended by Bertram Kessler and Alexander Hagberg. The exhaust was still have not received it.

I currently run on a track that is at sea level and I have told Bertram that the engine was not running all that should run, Bertram then gave me some advice, I said the following:

You must put out to 0.10 and put in 0.15 it give from Nova Rossi
Or If You Have inside 0.30 you put out and give in 2x 0.10 and 1x 0.15 in end You have not You have 0.38 and 0.33 so you can close the top speed.

I was also recommended to use the glow plug Novarossi C7TGF

I absolutely love the C version.

I run at sea level with the 7F nova plug and shim .30 to .35 and 16% nitro fuel.

Can be tricky to tune and need to change the conrod frequently but the engine has power and revs everywhere.

What brand car and gearing are you using?

What are your clutch settings?

Do you run a lean or rich low end needle setting? How many turns out is your low speed needle?

Maybe I/we can help.

Sam

I am using xray nt1 2013, and I'm using gear in first gear 17 and 60, and in second gear 22 and 54.

In the clutch using the clutch reverse of x ray with hard spring of xray, spring tightening to 0.8 mm.

The clutch hueco also 0.8mm, and the end play I adjust until practically have nothing to play and free to move the bell.I use setscrews in the flyweights and yellow clutch shoe.


Certainly in the document preparation engine engine washers MH brings me that I 0.33mm

Adjustment needles are not precisely tell as I take the motor will always 130 or 140 degrees

1. Your gearing sounds fine. Same as I use on most tracks (unless really large).

2. Try loosening the clutch spring to 0.4 to 0.5. When I use the xray hard spring or washer spring I find 0.8 to be too much. Gap and endplay sound fine.

3. I was asking about the low end tuning "turns in" because after Betram watched how I drive in Bangkok at the pre-worlds and worlds, he turned my low speed needle in all the way in and then backed it out only 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. He then adjusted the high speed (richer) and made the idle high.

4. Temps of 130 to 140 C could be too high, too lean. When Alex Hagberg was here in Singapore last month and I was his mechanic--he was using Runner Time 16% and using my exergen temp gun (over the glow plug but not pushing down the bodyshell as Betram suggests for a more consistent temp measurement) Alex's engine was running 104C to 114C only. We had very high humidity and the air temp was 34C+. He TQ'd the race.

When I use VP Fuel or Byron my engine seems just nice around 115 to 120C (after 10 to 20 mins of racing). With Tornado a bit hotter at 125C.

I know comparing temps is not the best way because ther are many variables, but maybe these temps give you some extra information and reference points.

At the Pre-Worlds in Bangkok, after a 1 hour A main I saw Betram measure Dirk Wishnewski's engine temp at 120C at the end of the race using an exergen temp gun over the glow plug hole of the body, not pushing the body down.

Don't give up. The engine can be hard to tune but one you get it right it is very, very powerful.

Sam

you will love it

Wou fantastic Reply .

The working temperature of the engine told me Alexander Hagberg, and I said that about 120 or 140 degrees.

I got in touch with Bertram Kessler because in my circuit the Novarossi Keep on passing me on the straight and those engines were running more than my Orcan.

I have not yet tested what Kessler tells me shims combustion chamber, I have to remove a shim 0.10mm and put 0.15 mm shim, that's what Kessler said in the email snippet that I have stuck to the post above.

I have to try the new exhaust and what he says of the shims combustion chamber and I have to see if the engine runs more.

how much shims bring your in the combustion chamber, exactly?

Thanks