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Old 10-03-2013, 07:03 AM   #61
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You just have to try things. Try what Bertram recommends. Try my points if you want.

Getting passed on a long straight can be for many reasons: gearing, two speed timing, tire diameter, speed in and out of corner, racing line, clutch, tuning

Ask the old guys or fast guys at your track to drive your car and give you feedback.

There are guys who will pass you regardless of what engine they are using. They have a special something many of us are searching for when we buy engines or upgrade equipment. Usually they can be super aggressive but smooth in every corner like Alex Hagberg. I wish I could buy that.

Good luck. Enjoy.
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Old 10-03-2013, 08:38 AM   #62
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Quote:
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1. Your gearing sounds fine. Same as I use on most tracks (unless really large).

2. Try loosening the clutch spring to 0.4 to 0.5. When I use the xray hard spring or washer spring I find 0.8 to be too much. Gap and endplay sound fine.

3. I was asking about the low end tuning "turns in" because after Betram watched how I drive in Bangkok at the pre-worlds and worlds, he turned my low speed needle in all the way in and then backed it out only 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. He then adjusted the high speed (richer) and made the idle high.

4. Temps of 130 to 140 C could be too high, too lean. When Alex Hagberg was here in Singapore last month and I was his mechanic--he was using Runner Time 16% and using my exergen temp gun (over the glow plug but not pushing down the bodyshell as Betram suggests for a more consistent temp measurement) Alex's engine was running 104C to 114C only. We had very high humidity and the air temp was 34C+. He TQ'd the race.

When I use VP Fuel or Byron my engine seems just nice around 115 to 120C (after 10 to 20 mins of racing). With Tornado a bit hotter at 125C.

I know comparing temps is not the best way because ther are many variables, but maybe these temps give you some extra information and reference points.

At the Pre-Worlds in Bangkok, after a 1 hour A main I saw Betram measure Dirk Wishnewski's engine temp at 120C at the end of the race using an exergen temp gun over the glow plug hole of the body, not pushing the body down.

Don't give up. The engine can be hard to tune but one you get it right it is very, very powerful.

Sam
i would actually use 17-23 59-53 give you a little more rpm on straight away but would still check shift point and clutch setting as you guys stated
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:03 PM   #63
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I have a question for HHH.

Your standard engine had few washers in the combustion chamber?

And if you've modified you based?
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:44 PM   #64
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I have a question for HHH.

Your standard engine had few washers in the combustion chamber?

And if you've modified you based?
I use both the S and C version and both are modified by MH (Michael Heinrichs). You can tell if modified by the engraving on the side of the engine case and a number engraved on the sleeve and crank. Look at the pervious pics I posted on this thread to see.

I run .30 which is how comes, .35 and .40 mm shims depending on the fuel and how lean I am going to run or push the engine.

0.40 is good for a lean top end for fuel economy or if using 25% nitro.

0.35 is good to feel safe (avoid detonating) when you are not sure if your fuel is good (control fuel race) or you are having glow plug problems or just "feel" your piston might be hitting the button head.

If my home track and fuel and I am comfortable and happy with performance then I use 0.30.

In the S I always use 0.35 because I had detonation using 0.30
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:17 PM   #65
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well time for break-in
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:12 AM   #66
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ohh, who may have other
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:30 AM   #67
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Someone may put the Orcan GT3C MH exploded, I do not find on the website of orcan.

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:56 PM   #68
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Default GT3C and GT3S Exploded view pics

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Someone may put the Orcan GT3C MH exploded, I do not find on the website of orcan.

Thanks
Pics of the exploded views attached. The only difference is the ceramic main bearing but of course the modifications will be different. I think they sell the MH only as a whole engine and if you want to mix and match parts, you have to send him your engine like Soloartist 702 did.
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Last edited by HHH; 10-07-2013 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:00 AM   #69
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The past weekend I had run and I could try the new exhaust Orcan, the engine runs more and spend less, it shows much the new exhaust, the subject of washers even I did not dare to try to put 0.35 Bertram said Kessler as soon I will have to try it.

I have won the race
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:00 AM   #70
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The past weekend I had run and I could try the new exhaust Orcan, the engine runs more and spend less, it shows much the new exhaust, the subject of washers even I did not dare to try to put 0.35 Bertram said Kessler as soon I will have to try it.

I have won the race
Congratulations. Well done! A simple change too.

My favorite ORCAN pipe for big and medium tracks is the efra 2663 by Mielke but sold under the ORCAN and Xceed Masterfix brands. Great power everywhere!
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:15 AM   #71
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good job motor is very good
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:26 AM   #72
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Hi everybody,

We finally got our redesigned shop up and running :-)...

Still many products to come, we got a lot that's not yet inserted.

But at least the shop is running now.

Take a look: www.rc-netshop.dk
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:42 PM   #73
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Hi everybody,

We finally got our redesigned shop up and running :-)...

Still many products to come, we got a lot that's not yet inserted.

But at least the shop is running now.

Take a look: www.rc-netshop.dk
Great to see you site back up... all the best for 2014
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:29 AM   #74
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I did not think it is possible to make a better .12 than the 2013 spec GT3C, but if "bling" is anything to go by, this new RS3 will be.

I am amazed at the amount of work MH has put into this engine.

This RS3 is supposed to spool up faster and rev higher.
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:31 AM   #75
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RS3
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