I run an 18T on a track with ~24 second laps. My motor is normally around 165F.

Hey Danny,

Unfortunately we aren't that organized lately. We haven't taken pictures of the winners in quite a while.


Chris

I think its having a lot to do with how u work the throttle and traction .
On my home track (21sec laps with hardly any wot) 15-16 on the 1900
Last track (34 sec laps big air lots of wot ) I ran a 18-19 both tracks shooting g for 140-150 during heats . i dont have a nitro finger tho but use the brakes alot .

I run a T8 1900 with 0 timing and no current limit and an 18t pinion.
If I drive smooth and don't brake heavily, I can come off under 130 after a 12 min main. If I drive aggressive the whole main with a bunch of full throttle accelerations and "full" (50%) brake into corners, I'll come off around 150. Same track as Chris.

As for the pictures, we still do that often, just for some reason not outdoors, only indoors on Wed night. We should ask about that.

Ha, no worries. We're just happy you guys are having fun up there.

i just wonder , does update already in eb-48 buggy kit ? what i need to buy a upgrade for eb-48 buggy ?

The only things you'll need to upgrade out of the box are a metal servo arm and springs if you're not indoors or on a really rough track.

The rest is tuning options depending on how you want to drive the car, lighten it, add bling, etc. Pistons are often helpful (8x1.3) and a common part to get, though you can make the kit pistons work fairly easily. Many will probably also like the +1.5 rear toe block, though it isn't required (I've been winning without).

The very first thing you should check if this buggy lacks steering is the servo saver spring! This buggy has more inherent steering than any other, so when there is a problem there, something is wrong. I chased this on a couple different occasions this winter. After swapping to the Serpent hard spring, I'm all good. Cranking down the saver is not the solution. Unless you like trashing $100.00 servos!
Get the spring...thank me later.

so has anyone had any luck with the csi vport pistons. I have 32 oils in front and back with stock springs but it seems a little hard on the bench

To those who have switched to the Serpent servo saver spring, is there any grinding to the ID that has to be done for fitment, or is it a direct fit??
I can definitely see the front wheels 'wandering' in the turns, especially hi-speed sweepers with spring tightened as much as I'd like. Its better after sanding the flashing as previously discussed, but its still evident.
Thanks

The inside of each end of the spring needs to be ground bck a little. You'll see when you get one. It's just a few minutes with the dremel.

I got my new body painted for the 8th scale E-nats!



Velcro is recommended (compared to body clips) to ensure longevity, correct?

I personally prefer velcro without a doubt.

Velcro works very well. Make sure you slot the rear mount hole or it will get torn up quickly. I cut mine about 1/8" wider and 1/4" forward of the pin and all the way out the back. I should just cut the pin completely off the mount and be done with it.

I use Velcro on the sides and a body clip in the front body post only. I removed the rear body post completely from the car. (dont even put a rear body post hole in the body). This prevents the body from getting torn up but the single body clip also makes it impossible for the body to fall off completly. Nothing worse IMO than the body coming off and ruining what would have been a great run. I had it happen once on another car when I used velcro only and since then switched to using the single body pin and velcro.