4LikesTeam Associated B4.2 Thread
06-11-2013 | 08:17 AM
#6106
06-11-2013 | 08:25 AM
#6107
I never understand it when people buy a new b4 kit and they say it pushes more than their old kit. So off power it wont steer, but on power it does... your running the black springs front and white rear? Those spring should have plenty of steering. I tun green/green springs because I wanted it to push a little. with black or brown fronts it was undrivable for me. you could always try 30/27.5 oils.
06-11-2013 | 08:27 AM
#6108
So I was doing some searching on this forum about E-clips in the shock breaking and found a couple of you had the same issue and after this had happened to me 3 times I kinda got tired of just replacing the E-clip and wanted to know how to fix it for it wouldn't happen again. So I called and talked to Tam Associated and they said they are aware of the problem and are doing testing to try and prevent this. He said once they figure out a way to prevent this they will release a upgrade part to fix the problem.
06-11-2013 | 08:37 AM
#6109
I've honestly never heard of e-clips breaking, or even coming off on AE 1/10th shocks. Maybe those people having issues are using bad quality e-clips, or maybe the shock shafts are defective and don't have a deep enough groove for the clip.
I've done countless shock rebuilds and I still have the original e-clips from my BB kits. Even my small bore shocks still have the original box clips.
I've done countless shock rebuilds and I still have the original e-clips from my BB kits. Even my small bore shocks still have the original box clips.
06-11-2013 | 09:00 AM
#6110
I've honestly never heard of e-clips breaking, or even coming off on AE 1/10th shocks. Maybe those people having issues are using bad quality e-clips, or maybe the shock shafts are defective and don't have a deep enough groove for the clip.
I've done countless shock rebuilds and I still have the original e-clips from my BB kits. Even my small bore shocks still have the original box clips.
I've done countless shock rebuilds and I still have the original e-clips from my BB kits. Even my small bore shocks still have the original box clips.
06-11-2013 | 09:07 AM
#6111
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 431
I never understand it when people buy a new b4 kit and they say it pushes more than their old kit. So off power it wont steer, but on power it does... your running the black springs front and white rear? Those spring should have plenty of steering. I tun green/green springs because I wanted it to push a little. with black or brown fronts it was undrivable for me. you could always try 30/27.5 oils.
06-11-2013 | 09:23 AM
#6113
AE may not have the best fit and finish or even QC these days, bu they do rake care of the owners. I had an axle snap, I sent them a picture and they send me new axles and a pre paid label to ship my broken ones back for inspection.
06-11-2013 | 09:45 AM
#6114
Hideeho
When I recently converted to hexes I mainly got avid wheels. I have several sets that the rear wheels that have cracked. Not bad enough to remove & remount (I go through tires to quickly
), but bad enough so I don't plan on reusing them. I got some of the jc 2 piece wheels (yuck!), & a full set of prolines. So far the prolines are the best, but I want to try the jc 1 piece wheels.
Has anyone else had similar problems w/ avids?
Which wheels are you running & why?
Personally, I don't like the style or tight fit for the driver on de wheels. I don't like the plastic panther uses (feels like old mega blocks, soft & squishy). Aka's seem ok, but I haven't used them enough to pass judgement on them.
For wheels, I'm looking for something durable (not avids
), stiff (not de or panther), light (prolines seem a little heavy, but I haven't weighed them), & preferably outy style (dished out to cover the nut like proline & avid, not jc or aka), 1/8 scale buggy wheels from the same place would be a bonus, & non-dish hex drive wheels that fit a b4.2 would be huge. By my tally, I've found problems with all the major brands of wheels. What else is out there that is decent?
When I recently converted to hexes I mainly got avid wheels. I have several sets that the rear wheels that have cracked. Not bad enough to remove & remount (I go through tires to quickly
), but bad enough so I don't plan on reusing them. I got some of the jc 2 piece wheels (yuck!), & a full set of prolines. So far the prolines are the best, but I want to try the jc 1 piece wheels. Has anyone else had similar problems w/ avids?
Which wheels are you running & why?
Personally, I don't like the style or tight fit for the driver on de wheels. I don't like the plastic panther uses (feels like old mega blocks, soft & squishy). Aka's seem ok, but I haven't used them enough to pass judgement on them.
For wheels, I'm looking for something durable (not avids
), stiff (not de or panther), light (prolines seem a little heavy, but I haven't weighed them), & preferably outy style (dished out to cover the nut like proline & avid, not jc or aka), 1/8 scale buggy wheels from the same place would be a bonus, & non-dish hex drive wheels that fit a b4.2 would be huge. By my tally, I've found problems with all the major brands of wheels. What else is out there that is decent?
Can't beat em either, light and you get the added bonus of the countersunk wheelnut seats.
TK
06-11-2013 | 09:48 AM
#6115
06-11-2013 | 09:51 AM
#6117
+1 for Avid wheels. Great quality and very durable.
JC wheels are nice too, but I hate the off-white color.
The only set of AKA wheels I had cracked within the first few packs. All on the inside lip, front and rear.
JC wheels are nice too, but I hate the off-white color.
The only set of AKA wheels I had cracked within the first few packs. All on the inside lip, front and rear.
06-11-2013 | 09:52 AM
#6118
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,412
So I was doing some searching on this forum about E-clips in the shock breaking and found a couple of you had the same issue and after this had happened to me 3 times I kinda got tired of just replacing the E-clip and wanted to know how to fix it for it wouldn't happen again. So I called and talked to Tam Associated and they said they are aware of the problem and are doing testing to try and prevent this. He said once they figure out a way to prevent this they will release a upgrade part to fix the problem.
06-11-2013 | 10:32 AM
#6119
Guys I had a b4.1wc with most of the .2 upgrades. I just bought a brand new true .2 and I can't get it to turn "OFF POWER". It has great on power steering. But push like a dump truck off power. Tires aren't the issue as I ran my .1 with the same tires and it was great everywhere.
I run kit box set up with the exception of avid 4 hole shock pistions 2 1.1 and 2 1.5 and then 32.5 front 30 rear. I tried going down 1mm in ride height down to 23 and it helped a little but still pretty bad.
Will softening up the front end shock wise help at all?
This is at a medium grip indoor clay track
I run kit box set up with the exception of avid 4 hole shock pistions 2 1.1 and 2 1.5 and then 32.5 front 30 rear. I tried going down 1mm in ride height down to 23 and it helped a little but still pretty bad.
Will softening up the front end shock wise help at all?
This is at a medium grip indoor clay track
06-11-2013 | 10:40 AM
#6120
I had e-clip problems for a while.
If the groove on the shock shaft is messed up replace it.
If you are running the stock kit pistons that are loose as sh1t on the shaft run a small shim under the e-clip (and on top of the piston) to keep the piston from getting cocked and jamming the piston in the shock body causing the bottom e-clip to fail.
Once I went to the cnc pistons there has been no e-clip drama.
I recently switched to avid wheels and they have lasted much longer than the AE wheels. Aside from cracking the AE wheels seemed to buckle the inner supports in the rear after only a few runs.
If the groove on the shock shaft is messed up replace it.
If you are running the stock kit pistons that are loose as sh1t on the shaft run a small shim under the e-clip (and on top of the piston) to keep the piston from getting cocked and jamming the piston in the shock body causing the bottom e-clip to fail.
Once I went to the cnc pistons there has been no e-clip drama.
I recently switched to avid wheels and they have lasted much longer than the AE wheels. Aside from cracking the AE wheels seemed to buckle the inner supports in the rear after only a few runs.