4LikesTeam Associated B4.2 Thread
05-23-2013 | 01:42 PM
#5417
Coming from the losi 22,I really like the b4.1! It fit my driving style. I never thought I would like untill I tryed it...and some many racers her in Florida runing the b4.1 or .2 that you have to try it. I loved my 22 but to me b4.2 is better! This how I run my b4.1.
05-23-2013 | 02:24 PM
#5418
For a clean soldering job you want to have something to hold the leads for you as you heat up the solder joints and as well maintain their position until they solidify. Also you must tin the wire properly (see below if you're not sure how to properly do so) to ensure the connection is secure. Use an iron that is 60 watt or higher as it will require less time to melt the solder on both the exposed lead and the solder point. What I do is heat them both simultaneously so that my tip is on the solder point and the wire on top of my iron's tip and then I slide the iron off and bring down my lead and apply another it of heat to ensure it's as liquified as possible and then hold until it solidifies.
Proper Tinning
Most people do not know how to properly tin wire and they simply fill their tip with solder and then proceed to try and transfer as much of it onto the wire. That's not correct. What you want to do is hold the exposed lead onto the soldering tip and then feed solder onto and then into the wire. the best way to achieve this is to begin applying the solder just under the sides of the wire and once it melts and the rosin begins to sizzle, slide the solder over the top and allow the wire to absorb just enough of it so it's coated. Now, here's another mistake people make. Although it looks thoroughly tinned, turning the wire over will will reveal that the solder did not make it's way all the way through so you need to do the same on this side as well. Again, just enough to coat the lead. Once this is done you can then proceed to mate it with the solder point and do as I described above.
Thanks to Mr. Williams (wherever you are), for teaching me so much in your class. Electrical Engineering was one of the most fun classes in high school! Somewhere out here in the world your world's smallest violin and record player are still playin' My Heart Cries For Ya! and don't worry, I'll Dock 'em for you too!!! LOLOL
Proper Tinning
Most people do not know how to properly tin wire and they simply fill their tip with solder and then proceed to try and transfer as much of it onto the wire. That's not correct. What you want to do is hold the exposed lead onto the soldering tip and then feed solder onto and then into the wire. the best way to achieve this is to begin applying the solder just under the sides of the wire and once it melts and the rosin begins to sizzle, slide the solder over the top and allow the wire to absorb just enough of it so it's coated. Now, here's another mistake people make. Although it looks thoroughly tinned, turning the wire over will will reveal that the solder did not make it's way all the way through so you need to do the same on this side as well. Again, just enough to coat the lead. Once this is done you can then proceed to mate it with the solder point and do as I described above.
Thanks to Mr. Williams (wherever you are), for teaching me so much in your class. Electrical Engineering was one of the most fun classes in high school! Somewhere out here in the world your world's smallest violin and record player are still playin' My Heart Cries For Ya! and don't worry, I'll Dock 'em for you too!!! LOLOL
Great information but where did that come from
05-23-2013 | 02:46 PM
#5420
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 138
From: Tacoma, WA
Hey guys, I have a question and could use some advice. I am in the market for a buggy to race around a clay track. My shop has a 4.1 brushless RTR for $220 but they also have the 4.2 kits for $280. I am kind of stumped on which direction I should go. A couple of people recommend the 4.2 kit over the 4.1 due to the upgrades.
Are there any major differences between the 4.1 and 4.2 models? I dont mind the stock brushless setup in the RTR 4.1. It will be enough for me to learn on until I am ready to change the setup. The 4.2 is just a few bucks more but I would get some upgrades out of it but is it worth the price difference? I want to make a decision by this weekend seeing my shop only has 1 4.1 RTR left.
Are there any major differences between the 4.1 and 4.2 models? I dont mind the stock brushless setup in the RTR 4.1. It will be enough for me to learn on until I am ready to change the setup. The 4.2 is just a few bucks more but I would get some upgrades out of it but is it worth the price difference? I want to make a decision by this weekend seeing my shop only has 1 4.1 RTR left.
05-23-2013 | 02:47 PM
#5421
Coming from the losi 22,I really like the b4.1! It fit my driving style. I never thought I would like untill I tryed it...and some many racers her in Florida runing the b4.1 or .2 that you have to try it. I loved my 22 but to me b4.2 is better! This how I run my b4.1.
Nice setup but why not coil all your long leads so it's all tight?
05-23-2013 | 02:51 PM
#5422
Hey guys, I have a question and could use some advice. I am in the market for a buggy to race around a clay track. My shop has a 4.1 brushless RTR for $220 but they also have the 4.2 kits for $280. I am kind of stumped on which direction I should go. A couple of people recommend the 4.2 kit over the 4.1 due to the upgrades.
Are there any major differences between the 4.1 and 4.2 models? I dont mind the stock brushless setup in the RTR 4.1. It will be enough for me to learn on until I am ready to change the setup. The 4.2 is just a few bucks more but I would get some upgrades out of it but is it worth the price difference? I want to make a decision by this weekend seeing my shop only has 1 4.1 RTR left.
Are there any major differences between the 4.1 and 4.2 models? I dont mind the stock brushless setup in the RTR 4.1. It will be enough for me to learn on until I am ready to change the setup. The 4.2 is just a few bucks more but I would get some upgrades out of it but is it worth the price difference? I want to make a decision by this weekend seeing my shop only has 1 4.1 RTR left.
05-23-2013 | 02:56 PM
#5423
The RTR 4.1 car is not the same thing as a 4.2. As far as I know the 4.1 RTR does not have the +8mm chassis which is the biggest difference outside the obvious ones. The 4.2 has a bunch of aluminum upgrades and is also a bit lighter due to the components being Carbon Composite as opposed to the plastics used in the RTR kits.
If you were to drop all the upgrades from the 4.2 into the RTR you'd end up spending another $200 or so bringing your total closer to $420-$450, depending on what you get.
Don't get me wrong, the Associated RTR sets are fantastic values but if you're looking to go racing, you want the top of the line kit. If your budget is limited, you can also hold off and buy the 4.2 RTR set when it's released which shouldn't be too long now.
If you were to drop all the upgrades from the 4.2 into the RTR you'd end up spending another $200 or so bringing your total closer to $420-$450, depending on what you get.
Don't get me wrong, the Associated RTR sets are fantastic values but if you're looking to go racing, you want the top of the line kit. If your budget is limited, you can also hold off and buy the 4.2 RTR set when it's released which shouldn't be too long now.
05-23-2013 | 02:57 PM
#5424
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,570
From: Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Hey guys, I have a question and could use some advice. I am in the market for a buggy to race around a clay track. My shop has a 4.1 brushless RTR for $220 but they also have the 4.2 kits for $280. I am kind of stumped on which direction I should go. A couple of people recommend the 4.2 kit over the 4.1 due to the upgrades.
Are there any major differences between the 4.1 and 4.2 models? I dont mind the stock brushless setup in the RTR 4.1. It will be enough for me to learn on until I am ready to change the setup. The 4.2 is just a few bucks more but I would get some upgrades out of it but is it worth the price difference? I want to make a decision by this weekend seeing my shop only has 1 4.1 RTR left.
Are there any major differences between the 4.1 and 4.2 models? I dont mind the stock brushless setup in the RTR 4.1. It will be enough for me to learn on until I am ready to change the setup. The 4.2 is just a few bucks more but I would get some upgrades out of it but is it worth the price difference? I want to make a decision by this weekend seeing my shop only has 1 4.1 RTR left.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-24GHz-Radio
05-23-2013 | 03:02 PM
#5425
Overall it is more cost effective to get the right stuff from the start instead of constantly upgrading electronics/the car.
05-23-2013 | 03:07 PM
#5426
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 138
From: Tacoma, WA
Thanks for the information guys. I may go the route of the 4.2 and work on getting the electronics needed for it. I am new to buggies and i drive my SCTE mostly. I do love watching the buggies fly across the track and it made me want to get one as a second RC. I have the money to buy a 4.2 and an esc/motor combo but i always hesitate and look at the full picture before I go spend crazy.
05-23-2013 | 03:23 PM
#5427
Thanks for the information guys. I may go the route of the 4.2 and work on getting the electronics needed for it. I am new to buggies and i drive my SCTE mostly. I do love watching the buggies fly across the track and it made me want to get one as a second RC. I have the money to buy a 4.2 and an esc/motor combo but i always hesitate and look at the full picture before I go spend crazy.
After about 2 months of practice I think I am back up to a novice plus level, hang in there!
05-23-2013 | 03:35 PM
#5428
Yeah as soon as I opened it up I went "well thats not right"!
Haha I was in the garage with no TV lol. but ill keep it in mind for my SC10.2 build.
Thanks for the tips mate.
I was actually referring to my cable routing though. I gots the mad soldering skills
For a clean soldering job you want to have something to hold the leads for you as you heat up the solder joints and as well maintain their position until they solidify. Also you must tin the wire properly (see below if you're not sure how to properly do so) to ensure the connection is secure. Use an iron that is 60 watt or higher as it will require less time to melt the solder on both the exposed lead and the solder point. What I do is heat them both simultaneously so that my tip is on the solder point and the wire on top of my iron's tip and then I slide the iron off and bring down my lead and apply another it of heat to ensure it's as liquified as possible and then hold until it solidifies.
Proper Tinning
Most people do not know how to properly tin wire and they simply fill their tip with solder and then proceed to try and transfer as much of it onto the wire. That's not correct. What you want to do is hold the exposed lead onto the soldering tip and then feed solder onto and then into the wire. the best way to achieve this is to begin applying the solder just under the sides of the wire and once it melts and the rosin begins to sizzle, slide the solder over the top and allow the wire to absorb just enough of it so it's coated. Now, here's another mistake people make. Although it looks thoroughly tinned, turning the wire over will will reveal that the solder did not make it's way all the way through so you need to do the same on this side as well. Again, just enough to coat the lead. Once this is done you can then proceed to mate it with the solder point and do as I described above.
Thanks to Mr. Williams (wherever you are), for teaching me so much in your class. Electrical Engineering was one of the most fun classes in high school! Somewhere out here in the world your world's smallest violin and record player are still playin' My Heart Cries For Ya! and don't worry, I'll Dock 'em for you too!!! LOLOL
Proper Tinning
Most people do not know how to properly tin wire and they simply fill their tip with solder and then proceed to try and transfer as much of it onto the wire. That's not correct. What you want to do is hold the exposed lead onto the soldering tip and then feed solder onto and then into the wire. the best way to achieve this is to begin applying the solder just under the sides of the wire and once it melts and the rosin begins to sizzle, slide the solder over the top and allow the wire to absorb just enough of it so it's coated. Now, here's another mistake people make. Although it looks thoroughly tinned, turning the wire over will will reveal that the solder did not make it's way all the way through so you need to do the same on this side as well. Again, just enough to coat the lead. Once this is done you can then proceed to mate it with the solder point and do as I described above.
Thanks to Mr. Williams (wherever you are), for teaching me so much in your class. Electrical Engineering was one of the most fun classes in high school! Somewhere out here in the world your world's smallest violin and record player are still playin' My Heart Cries For Ya! and don't worry, I'll Dock 'em for you too!!! LOLOL
Fwiw, it is gonna be quite a dramatic change going from an SCTE to a 4.2. Just get as much track time as possible! I made the same transformation but ended up selling my SCTs because they just ruined my driving skills (didn't have much to begin with!).
After about 2 months of practice I think I am back up to a novice plus level, hang in there!
After about 2 months of practice I think I am back up to a novice plus level, hang in there!
I was actually referring to my cable routing though. I gots the mad soldering skills
05-23-2013 | 05:11 PM
#5429
Cool deal Cloaked.
Gonna snap a pic of my wiring job now. Had to solder everything last minute with a damn hobbyco iron as my Weller finally died after over 2 decades of stellar service, but not before I re-soldered new leads onto my new Reventon R and it looks like a factory job there.
Gonna snap a pic of my wiring job now. Had to solder everything last minute with a damn hobbyco iron as my Weller finally died after over 2 decades of stellar service, but not before I re-soldered new leads onto my new Reventon R and it looks like a factory job there.
05-23-2013 | 05:37 PM
#5430
Cool deal Cloaked.
Gonna snap a pic of my wiring job now. Had to solder everything last minute with a damn hobbyco iron as my Weller finally died after over 2 decades of stellar service, but not before I re-soldered new leads onto my new Reventon R and it looks like a factory job there.
Gonna snap a pic of my wiring job now. Had to solder everything last minute with a damn hobbyco iron as my Weller finally died after over 2 decades of stellar service, but not before I re-soldered new leads onto my new Reventon R and it looks like a factory job there.
I dont know if you guys can get them in the states but I have a really nice GOOT 60W iron with a flat tip. Its great picked it up when i was in business in Japan. Been using it for 2 years now and I love it, its not temperature controlled but heats up so quick and stays constant.
Actually just had an idea on how to clean up my cables.... Hrrrmmm.