So....

My CVA was hitting my Diff Nut.... because my Diff nut was not going all the way down into the Outdrive... and I snapped my Diff bolt.... BUGGER!*

Luckily I have a spare diff bolt and will be ordering a few more.

Did anyone else have a problem with the CBA hitting the plastic Diff nut in the outdrive?

* Bugger is australian slang with similar meaning to damn, hell or crap.

Most likely you did itg wrong. That is the case most of the time

It shouldn't hit. Did you compress the spring before or put the spring and T Nut where the thrust bearing goes? I know your more experienced then that but have to start somewhere. With you snapping a diff bolt leads me to believe the spring wasn't compressed or compressed enough. It's too stiff to start with and compressing it will soften it.

Most of the time people put it on tne wrong side. The ojtdrives are not the same

Yes, decompressed the spring a few times. But thanks for the tip.

Could be, I am pretty sure I followed the guide and put it in as per the manual.

Question Though.

Looking at the rear of the buggy, does the diff bolt head go on the left?

Cheers

Doesnt matter, whatever works better for you....for ease of adjustment I have always put it on the drivers side.

It goes right, same side as spur gear. The T Nut should bottom out or close to it. The nut goes on the male half of the diff and the thrust bolt in the female half. Can you post pics?

Just picked up my b4.2. What do you guys recommend to keep on as spares for the car that you typically see break in racing?

Frong arms. Rear tower

Will do tonight.

At Work at the moment (Its 9.15am in Sydney) so will do tonight.

Going to pick up a new diff rebuild kit and some spare Bolts and T nuts.

But thanks for the Info, Ill look into it.

For those of you doing the inline electronics up on a tray are you running shorty packs or full packs? If any of you are doing this with full packs can you please send me some detailed pics of how it is set up and how you made the tray, I would really appreciate it. Please pm me and I'll send you my email addy or phone number

Thanks

well, I just did my inline setup up high. I am curious to see how the esc up high in the center changes my roll.

for the guy asking how I did it.
1) find an old or new t-plate
2) cut off the area in the red squares
3) shave down the area in purple flush or further to allow for clearance
4) find some 5-40 screw (i used the same ones that attach the t-plate to the chassis)
5) use the holes that are pre drilled into the t-plate and bolt it to the u-brace and chassis.
6) shorten your battery strap to fit. you might wanna practice on a plastic rtr battery strap.

in case it was not obvious, the side you see in the picture faces down. I then had to resolder my motor lead to properly go through the rear tower and allow me to push the esc as far back as possible. the fixing of the wires and rerouting took the most time.

Dont take this the wrong way but your wiring looks terrible and why didnt you use a dremel on your wing. Hope you drive better than your car looks.