hey cain can i get that out door track setup you got if it not a problem ialready used maxx seup. something missing

sure. You or anyone else interested feel free to shoot me a pm with your email address and I'll send it to you. same as the carpet setup I ended up with.

And if you find it doesn't work for you, whatever, don't be shy in letting me know or if you change something and prefer that setting, please report back.

Having a community working together on setups etc. is best.

By the way, what do you feel is missing from maxx setup? Please post conditions and the issues you feel you are having.

I don't have his setup on hand right now. But i think his called for the shock position in the rear in middle hole. i got mine on the outside hole had to much roll after changing i could drift the turns good. for the front im on the inner hole. and sway bar i ended up with yellow front and blue rear i think his was the opposite. This set up was good for the turns and switch back but if i got on it to early coming out i fished tailed all the way down the straight. this is with the vts4 slipper don't know if that makes a different or not. im geared 12p and 60. this was on a 1s lipo i think is what the guy let me use.

We recently tried raising the body 1 hole above or higher than we have been running.
Taught me that change alone made a big difference in handling.

Can't be much to give it a try...

Had my maiden run with a SC10 4x4 on Saturday that resulted in stripped spur gear :-(
The truck was running fine, then later it started to sound odd... part of the gear got stripped.
It is running a 48p 93 tooth spur and a 21 tooth pinnion(i think) with a 8.5 turn motor.
When the motor was mounted I used a strip of paper inbetween the two gears as a spacer.
Has anyone else had stripped spurs?
Should I use a 32pitch gears?
Any suggustions on what I can do to prevent this from happening again.

This is my first time building a RC truck. Any suggustions on the setting for the clicker and rear clutch.
Thanks
Fred

Fred
Check to make sure the motor plate is in the slot on chassis,ck transmission & motor screws.

48 pitch for the 8.5 540 will be great.

Paper trick works

Lock the clicker

Adjust slipper nut so 3/16th in of shaft threads show above lock nut

Thanks Wild Cherry for the tip.
Fred

Need a little help on LRP x12L 5.5. I tested the motor without load on the Velineon vxl3 and MMM, the motor runs fine, but when I put it in the truck, it flutters and doesn't go. The motor and battery wires get hot. Any ideas? I have ran the truck with other motors and it runs fine.

off topic but i figured i would share it with you guys
my custom beadlock for the m8 lol got bored

That looks filthy! Very custom!

If the wires are getting hot rather quickly... most likely a de-magnetized rotor.

Just to test to see if it's the truck, I put the motor%2

Did you use loctite on your screws holding the motor to the mount?

For the type of motor you are using, I don't see an issue with running 48 pitch gears, you just have to make sure your mesh stays consistent (which using the paper method you mentioned is fine).

For the clicker, pretty much standard to run it "locked" as specified in the manual.

http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...CF125P19;c=617

Anyone ever try one of these center one ways?

Kinda interesting.

Krom.

Thats exactly what the clicker does!