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Old 05-19-2013 | 09:43 PM
  #6556  
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But, you really dont do much "cruising" at top speed on the track. Most of the time you are accelerating or braking. If you are geared right by the time you stop accelerating and reach top speed you are letting go of the throttle and getting on the brakes. If you are spending alot of time with the motor winding out at top RPM then you will be creating motor heat.

But whatever. This is all just a reference calculations anyway.

If the little motor cant handle running the way I need it to run then its too small for me I guess. Maybe someone with an ultra smooth style could make it work.

Last edited by jhautz; 05-19-2013 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 05-19-2013 | 09:55 PM
  #6557  
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Originally Posted by jhautz
You really dont do much "cruising" at top speed on the track. Most of the time you are accelerating or braking. If you are geared right by the time you stop accelerating and reach top speed you are letting go of the throttle and getting on the brakes. If you are spending alot of time with the motor winding out at top RPM then you will be creating motor heat.

But whatever. This is all just a reference calculations anyway.

If the little motor cant handle running the way I need it to run then its too small for me I guess. Maybe someone with an ultra smooth style could make it work.
Its been in the low to mid 60's every day I've ran it...I'm sure I'll be dropping the 1900 4s back in when the temps start getting higher...sure is fun being so nimble and quick though
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Old 05-20-2013 | 04:05 AM
  #6558  
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I'm running my diffs 7f/5mid/2r. After apex of turn when I excelerate it blows out inside front and car begins pushing . would u think going up in center or front would help?
Center I'm thinking would help break the rear loose to help turn on power a bit more
Thicker in front (on road theory) tends to take away mid corner and give better exit .
Dont want to loose and on power mid corner steering
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Old 05-20-2013 | 05:08 AM
  #6559  
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
I'm running my diffs 7f/5mid/2r. After apex of turn when I excelerate it blows out inside front and car begins pushing . would u think going up in center or front would help?
Center I'm thinking would help break the rear loose to help turn on power a bit more
Thicker in front (on road theory) tends to take away mid corner and give better exit .
Dont want to loose and on power mid corner steering
Heavier center weight will help the front to not diff out. Little thicker in the back too because the power is gonna wanna go to the back if you use heavier center. I use 7-7-5 and its pretty good.

btw onroad theory there is no center diff. It took me forever to start thinking front center and back.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 06:03 AM
  #6560  
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Working on it lol learned the hard way running sc last summer . I put 500k in center diff to take that veritable out . lol
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Old 05-20-2013 | 06:10 AM
  #6561  
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Also try the kyosho springs
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Old 05-20-2013 | 06:23 AM
  #6562  
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
Well had my first outing yesterday , I can say car is really good . started off with my own shock setup and as the night went on shocks started to change .lol
Started with a spring balanced setup ( pink front /kyosho blue rear) car was very loose with maximum toe . I was running m2 revolvers , droped rear camber link made it a little better ,changed tires on next charge to double dees and it was way better .actually started to push ,mid corner . pulled sway bar off front and got a bit more mid corner . But kind of made it numb in a few areas . went to kyosho baby blue in front and that made it come around a little better but still wanted a little more corner speed in a hardpacked loomy area of the track . i qualified 2nd out of 11 on that run . so for the main I pulled the rear shocks in one hole and wouldn't u know it was then a tad loose on power but mid corner neutral power its spot on for my driving style . ended finishing 3rd cause of the harder to drive looseness on power (which I'm not comfortable driving but made it work ... Great car I set overall fastest laps in 3rd heat and main.

I'm thinking the kyosho blues r about the same as the greens (one step softer than yellow I believe ) but harder than the pinks .
I did.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 07:47 AM
  #6563  
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after much deliberation on 1/8th scale buggies, I pulled the trigger on the EB-48 today. I had narrowed the choice down between this and the Mugen MBX6 Eco, but in the end I wanted something different, something new and I think the idea of putting it all together will be fun.
Can't hurt that Tekno has put all the knowledge from producing conversions for all the top buggys into this - they obviously knew exactly what they were going for when they designed the EB48.
I'm pretty excited to start building it - and these forums offer such an amazing amount of information, so thanks everyone for all the input.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 08:47 AM
  #6564  
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I'm looking for some advice:

I am interested in running a super light eb48 setup and am wondering if a 2s lipo with a tekin pro 4 hd would be something worth trying. At one point on this thread, a few mentioned that they love their 2s setup and I'm interested to hear more about it. It seems to me that if the sct410 can be run with a 2s lipo, the eb48 should too! I would be running outdoors on a medium size track.

Also, those of you who have focused on running a light setup, what advantages or disadvantages have you observed? Is it worth my time trying to make a sub 7 lb buggy? Thanks in advance for any help with this, guys.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 09:13 AM
  #6565  
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
I did.
The k-car springs are much more progressive than the Tekno springs
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Old 05-20-2013 | 10:05 AM
  #6566  
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Originally Posted by jpas
The k-car springs are much more progressive than the Tekno springs
OK Kool, I made a test bench to compair them to one another and at 50% compression the green tekno and the baby blue kyosho are 10-20grams apart com paired to the 100g gap between each spring ovveted by tekno (given my numbers veried 20+- grams but it was close enough for my reasoning

Last edited by jlfx car audio; 05-20-2013 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 10:16 AM
  #6567  
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Originally Posted by WolfAusti
I'm looking for some advice:

I am interested in running a super light eb48 setup and am wondering if a 2s lipo with a tekin pro 4 hd would be something worth trying. At one point on this thread, a few mentioned that they love their 2s setup and I'm interested to hear more about it. It seems to me that if the sct410 can be run with a 2s lipo, the eb48 should too! I would be running outdoors on a medium size track.

Also, those of you who have focused on running a light setup, what advantages or disadvantages have you observed? Is it worth my time trying to make a sub 7 lb buggy? Thanks in advance for any help with this, guys.
i ran the sct410 in a 1/8 buggy configuration on 2s pro4 4000 and it was a bit underpowered. you can always try the pro4hd 1850 with a 3300mah 4s battery. protek makes a nice hard case one. that's the setup i run in my revo 3.3 tekno conversion. i've tried it in my sct410 in sct configuration and it's got lots of power.

theoretically i think it'd be advantageous to run a lighter buggy. as long as you change the setup to compensate it should run great. i think that's why some racing organizations have min weights for 1/8.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 11:25 AM
  #6568  
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Tho the kyosho might start softer or finish harder making them more progressive overall but from memory I don't see the buggy really using over 50-60% of spring
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Old 05-20-2013 | 12:04 PM
  #6569  
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Originally Posted by WolfAusti
I'm looking for some advice:

I am interested in running a super light eb48 setup and am wondering if a 2s lipo with a tekin pro 4 hd would be something worth trying. At one point on this thread, a few mentioned that they love their 2s setup and I'm interested to hear more about it. It seems to me that if the sct410 can be run with a 2s lipo, the eb48 should too! I would be running outdoors on a medium size track.

Also, those of you who have focused on running a light setup, what advantages or disadvantages have you observed? Is it worth my time trying to make a sub 7 lb buggy? Thanks in advance for any help with this, guys.
From what I am seeing, the 4300Kv ProHD motor are definitely harder on batteries and will require a 1/8 scale ESC (SCT410 but without body for testing, so in essence a light 1/8).

That said, it gives the closest feel to the 1/8 scale setup I have on my EB48. If you are wanting pure lightweight setup, I would suggest sticking around the weight of 2S 7200mah battery (300 grams?) which I think the 3300mah 4S packs do. And probably go with a 3S or 4S setup to get more efficiency out of the vehicle assuming you want the similar punch to a traditional 1/8 buggy setup.

Though, I an see using a 1/8 scale ESC with the 4300Kv ProHD motor geared properly and a high quality 2S lipo could give you the performance you want.

Originally Posted by streetsports
I figured the 1850 on 4s would come off cold...I'm seeing up to 180 after 13ish minutes with the 4300 geared 18/44...I ran a 20 for a few packs the other day by accident and it came off even colder (that has me stumped).

Are your bearings starting to get old by any chance? And did you notice the motor maxxing out on rpm's at all?
Where are you topping out down the longest straight with either motor configuration?

With these motors, I am thinking proper gearing is going to be key.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 12:16 PM
  #6570  
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
I'm running my diffs 7f/5mid/2r. After apex of turn when I excelerate it blows out inside front and car begins pushing . would u think going up in center or front would help?
Center I'm thinking would help break the rear loose to help turn on power a bit more
Thicker in front (on road theory) tends to take away mid corner and give better exit .
Dont want to loose and on power mid corner steering
I wouldnt go more than 7k in the center. Try running heavier sway bars so you dont roll so much weight onto the outside front. The inside is too light and thats why it is diffing out. Try to reduce the roll and that should fix it without hurting performance elsewhere. I am running 2.8mm bars front and rear and it has not reduced traction anywhere on the track. If anything, I have more traction. Keep in mind that a narrow car will roll more than a wider car.(wider weight placement.) Wider cars stay flatter and require a much thinner sway bar setup in order to stay flat enough to bite good. Shortening the camber links and heavier roll bars will actually help reduce roll and increase overall traction. You will reach a point though that it goes the other way so try it and know when to say when.

Last edited by protc3; 05-20-2013 at 12:27 PM.
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