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Old 05-17-2013 | 08:09 PM
  #10186  
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Originally Posted by timamybrown
Just a quick question? Has anyone new start running in your class. What radio and rx are you running. Last year I started running a new track during practice my truck seemed to run fine but as soon as the race started I would just loose throttle but still have steering swore it had to be my mmp. It ended up being someone in my class was running a low end radio and rx and it would make my spektrum radio freak out. Ended up buying a mt-4 that same day and all my troubles went away and didn't have to run the e-bec anymore.
Yes, i have a good radio, futaba 4pl, which glitching is unheard of for that radio. There are a couple drivers running flysky radios @ my track, but from what i've heard, interference only occurs when there are spektrum's and flysky's running together. I've ran the 4pl in my other cars, with flysky's in range with no issues. Definitely not a radio problem. So far the only variable left is the motor.
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Old 05-17-2013 | 08:26 PM
  #10187  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I'm not really sure you can reset an external bec. Right now i'm @ 6.0 volts.
I run identical setup to yours bro. You can set the bec to stock. Castle link communicates with the bec (obviously) and has a "default" option. 6v is not default
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Old 05-17-2013 | 08:47 PM
  #10188  
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Originally Posted by SC Shaun
Are you guys still relying on Mr. Baker's setup for indoor standard? Or are we going elsewhere at this point?

Basically I have to be lazy on you guys because I'm rushing as it is.

Top Gear hobbies Layout for Invitational Race

Help me out guys! I need a boost. We open practice tomorrow night for a huge race this weekend.
Thanks anyway.
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Old 05-17-2013 | 09:50 PM
  #10189  
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Good job with the new layout Shaun, you guys cleaned up that place nicely.
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Old 05-17-2013 | 10:06 PM
  #10190  
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Tq and the win tonight. Tekno is bada$$. Need to play around with my shocks though. With warmer outside temps which way do u go on oil?
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Old 05-17-2013 | 10:11 PM
  #10191  
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When it's hot thicker cold thinner
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Old 05-17-2013 | 10:14 PM
  #10192  
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Originally Posted by mydudrevo
When it's hot thicker cold thinner
Thank you. Wanted to make sure I didn't get it backwards.
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Old 05-18-2013 | 05:53 AM
  #10193  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Yes, i have a good radio, futaba 4pl, which glitching is unheard of for that radio. There are a couple drivers running flysky radios @ my track, but from what i've heard, interference only occurs when there are spektrum's and flysky's running together. I've ran the 4pl in my other cars, with flysky's in range with no issues. Definitely not a radio problem. So far the only variable left is the motor.
Make sure you really check over the wires going to the rx. I had a ground wire that was hanging on by a couple strands once. Couldn't tell by looking at it but that was the issue. Same symtoms, totally random resets.
I think its from unplugging to use castle link. Now I put shoe goo around where the wires go in the connector to act as a strain relief.
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Old 05-18-2013 | 09:05 AM
  #10194  
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Originally Posted by vfrninja
Make sure you really check over the wires going to the rx. I had a ground wire that was hanging on by a couple strands once. Couldn't tell by looking at it but that was the issue. Same symtoms, totally random resets.
I think its from unplugging to use castle link. Now I put shoe goo around where the wires go in the connector to act as a strain relief.
I get what you're saying about making the rx wires secure. The problem is, i need to be able to unplug my esc wire to use castle link. Shoo gooing the esc wire into that adapter would be a good idea if i never planned on needing to adjust anything. I already made sure the esc wire was in the adapter nice and tight, and i made sure there was some slack just in case of chassis flex. It there was a way to get the shoo-goo off clean, i'd do it right now.
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Old 05-18-2013 | 09:32 AM
  #10195  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I get what you're saying about making the rx wires secure. The problem is, i need to be able to unplug my esc wire to use castle link. Shoo gooing the esc wire into that adapter would be a good idea if i never planned on needing to adjust anything. I already made sure the esc wire was in the adapter nice and tight, and i made sure there was some slack just in case of chassis flex. It there was a way to get the shoo-goo off clean, i'd do it right now.
I think he was saying he goo'd right where the wires go into the plug. Shoe goo will come off clean once cured.
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Old 05-18-2013 | 09:40 AM
  #10196  
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Quick thought/question on vented build:
I have had great success converting my Mugen MBX6 shocks over to vented bladders. MOST of us Mugen guys run Losi foam compensators (LOSA 5431) above the bladder since there now isn't an air pocket above working to prevent the bladder from collapsing. I have yet to read about anyone doing this on the Tekno vented setup. Is it just that the vented setup isn't nearly as popular as the standard non-vented bladder setup? I'm going to be building my shocks with the Tekno metal caps, Serpent comb bladders, Tekno 1.3x8 pistons and the foam compensators. Just curious what people's thoughts were. Thanks!
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Old 05-18-2013 | 09:46 AM
  #10197  
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Originally Posted by Bcholka
Quick thought/question on vented build:
I have had great success converting my Mugen MBX6 shocks over to vented bladders. MOST of us Mugen guys run Losi foam compensators (LOSA 5431) above the bladder since there now isn't an air pocket above working to prevent the bladder from collapsing. I have yet to read about anyone doing this on the Tekno vented setup. Is it just that the vented setup isn't nearly as popular as the standard non-vented bladder setup? I'm going to be building my shocks with the Tekno metal caps, Serpent comb bladders, Tekno 1.3x8 pistons and the foam compensators. Just curious what people's thoughts were. Thanks!
Let us know how that goes. That way seems like the best way to run a vented setup. I couldn't get the vented setup to stay consistant so went back to standard bladder setup again.
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Old 05-18-2013 | 09:53 AM
  #10198  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I get what you're saying about making the rx wires secure. The problem is, i need to be able to unplug my esc wire to use castle link. Shoo gooing the esc wire into that adapter would be a good idea if i never planned on needing to adjust anything. I already made sure the esc wire was in the adapter nice and tight, and i made sure there was some slack just in case of chassis flex. It there was a way to get the shoo-goo off clean, i'd do it right now.
He was clearly referring to shoe goo on the wires going into the back of the male plug (male plug being part of the ESC).
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Old 05-18-2013 | 09:55 AM
  #10199  
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Originally Posted by suby723
Let us know how that goes. That way seems like the best way to run a vented setup. I couldn't get the vented setup to stay consistant so went back to standard bladder setup again.
Most definitely will. At least with my experiences with the Mugen shocks I wouldn't even consider building vented without compensators. It just isn't a correct build IMO
BTW--I initially tried running the shocks emulsion style with little to no success. I think emulsion works better in lighter vehicles.
Oh, another thing, is the consensus with people that they're still running 4 orings per shock or has anyone played with eliminating some? Smooth medium bite medium size indoor track (trackside hobbies in Brookfield WI).
Thanks all--LOVE THIS FORUM AND THIS TRUCK!!!!!
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Old 05-18-2013 | 10:00 AM
  #10200  
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I saw some discussion about servo horns. Is there a certain length or different servo horn you have to use for thebtekno? I have been using answer racing aluminum servo horns and would love to be able to use the one I just ordered on my tekno when I get it on Wednesday.

Here's a pic of the one I ordered. It also comes in black but was out of stock

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