Rockthecatbox21 - I had this problem before. I replaced everything trying to isolate the problem. The sensor board in my motor was the thing that I eventually found out was going bad. Try running sensorless (without the sensor wire) to see if this is your problem. I hope this helps

Going to try it. Thanks.

Does it happen when landing after hitting a jump?

Yes, it's happened there, but it's happened in other places as well. One time my car wouldn't go right at the start of the race, just sat there with steering. Other times it's happened when just driving on a smooth spot on the track. It's not very consistent on when and where it happens. I already rolled my firmware back to a non-beta version (1.26) and i'll set my current limiter @ 90%. I feel like i've done all i can think of. Thanks for all the replies and support and sorry for cluttering up this thread with my electrical problems.

Hmmm, I have had very similar issues with the MMP. I had one that would shut off after 4min. No other making and no lv, it would just shut off and restart.... If you have another ESC or can borrow one from a friend, I would suggest trying that.

i had similar issues with several mmp esc's, all were replaced by castle.also no need to say sorry,thats whats so great about this thread...

I finally got my truck back together. Since we all were talking about gearing I wanted to see what kind of top end speed the HW 4000kv had needless to say I probably won't need to go any higher than a 16/44 gear. At 16/44 it top's out at 41mph that should be fast enough for any track.

What?! No 19 tooth pinion?

Last night I DNF'ed. My front cvd ejected its pin. I have been running the truck every weekend since the first batch. The holes in the axle were wollowed out pretty bad, good thing I have two more sets of hole to run

Shock Snot...

No I put a 19 on just for the heck of it. It ran just over 45 could barely drive it on the street.

Question about chassis braces-I know that "originally" the Tekno team drivers (and most others) were only running the front brace. The drivers felt that this was giving the best rear traction. Now that the truck has been around for a bit i was just wondering if that's still everyone's consensus?? I think some have been finding success with the middle brace installed (along with the front of course). This would be for an indoor medium bite track. I know it's simple enough to experiment but just curious if anyone has had any new experiences with these. Thanks!

I think the braces come down to driving style. I like running front and rear brace. To me the truck feels more consistent . I've tried with out the center and rear and just didn't like it.

Well, I got the ProHD 4300 installed. will see how it goes in the street tomorrow. definitely has a whole lot of torque in comparison to the Pro4 I have been using, even with the lowest punch control setting on my Speedo (low number means more punch control).

Didn't expect that answer from you...

I need piston drills anyway so i guess i'll bite.

A quick story about my current shock experience:
I am finding that I am having to run higher oils than what most are reporting. I am running on a smooth medium bite medium size indoor track with no real big jumps to mention. I figured the kyosho black pistons would be good for this application as they are recommended more for smooth higher bite tracks. They are the 1.3x8. The blacks are suppose to generate more pack than the whites. Anyways, I started at what most seem to be using for the whites--35f/30r. BTW-this is with the standard pink/green springs that most everyone seems to be running. On our outing yesterday it was evident that the truck was blowing through the stroke with little to zero pack and the truck was acting like it was on pogo sticks. I decided to up the fluids at the track to 40/35--this helped a bit. I'm going back today with 45/40 and hoping the dampening will be where it needs to be. If not I am prepared to go 50/45. I'm just not sure why I'm having to go this high when it seems that most are in the 30-40 range with the white pistons which supposedly dont generate the pack that the blacks do. One thing--I've built many RC's in the past with the lightest parts possible only to find drivability fall off the map. With this build I decided to stay on the heavier side as most everyone is reporting that this is definitely that way to go with the tekno. I haven't weighed the truck but am thinking I'm definitely on the heavier end of the spectrum (4300hd, 6500 carbon pro, 1.5oz put in dead servo space). Thoughts on this????